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| 4.6 Tech (96-04) Discuss the 1996-2004 2-Valve GT & 4-Valve Cobra |
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Angleton, Tx
Posts: 21
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04 PI crate motor swap in 97 GT
I recently bought a 97 GT/auto with a bad motor..(not sure what is wrong with it)...it has been sitting for 3 yrs...so I ordered a 04 PI crate stock crate motor...is there anyone or a website that will tell me what will have to be changed out to make the swap easier..like I know the thermo housing needs to be swapped out, cuz the new one will put the hose right in sight of where my old coil pack need to go..and a few other small things..Im new to the mustang scene and would like to get the upper hand when I do the swap..thanks for any help...
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#2 |
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You will never get this
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shoulda bought a used termie motor. This might help. NPI to PI engine swap how to guide - Mustang Forums at StangNet
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Angleton, Tx
Posts: 21
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whats a termie motor
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#4 |
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Do The Stanky Leg!
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motor that comes on the 03-04 COBRAS... supercharged
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Houston
Posts: 186
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32 vavle 4.6 engine which is stock on cobras, as apposed to the 16 valve GT entine. I dont know man, its hard to say which would have been a better decision. Its really up to you, personally I would have done the same as you did, UNLESS a 32 valve engine was available for the same price, AND I KNEW the precise condition of that engine. Especially termie motors and the abuse it might have been put through. So for peace of mind, security, $$$COST and daily driving, I would have gone with crate Gt 4.6 as well. If your concerned with HP Potential, than the termie engine, would have been way better.
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Angleton, Tx
Posts: 21
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no..I really jus wanted reliability...weekend car..and an easy swap..bought the motor for $3400 shipped..everything is new..it is an end of the production run motor..Im having the auto tranny rebuilt..since it was sittin for 3 yrs..and ordering parts for it..long tubes and the usual bolt ons..not tryin to be the fastest..jus quick and working on the looks..like I said..it sat in some apts. parking for 3 yrs...so it needs some TLC..
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#7 | |
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4 valve
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 948
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Quote:
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#8 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Houston
Posts: 186
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Quote:
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#9 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Angleton, Tx
Posts: 21
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I got it off of ebay and out of arlington...Im not a 5 spd person..prolly driven a stick like 4 times in my life..haha...crazy..huh...Im no good...I like to eat a burger and drive..haha
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#10 |
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LOL @ your mom
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: N.E. SA
Posts: 8,745
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You'll need to swap a few parts over to make the 04 compatible with the 97.
The timing cover will need to be reused, all the accessories transfer over, the t-stat neck is the same for all years of a 2V. You will basically keep everything from the stock motor and just transfer it over. You'll have to transfer the fuel rails, coil packs, plug wires, egr tube, and most everything else is ok. I did a 2000 engine in mine which replaced a 96 motor
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Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts, over 300+ RWHP & 320+ TQ |
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#11 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Angleton, Tx
Posts: 21
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Im gonna have to switch stat housings...the 04 one puts the hose coming right over where I need to fab up a bracket to keep my coil packs..the motor has all new accessories..alternator & pwr steering already..so wont have to switch the timing housing..I am gonna put a 97 stat housing to reposition the hose outlet..mine on the motor in the car is crusty..haha...thanks for all the input..
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#12 |
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LOL @ your mom
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: N.E. SA
Posts: 8,745
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I have a housing from a 96 if you need one, good shape still and I can ship it if you need it. The belt routing is different too from a 97 to an 04.
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Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts, over 300+ RWHP & 320+ TQ |
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#13 |
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Humble Pie (18-1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: San Antonio TX
Posts: 1,537
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New & Used Engines
should have bought this one for 1800 it's the same thing only lighter cause it's an aluminum block......
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1998 yellow gt/procharger-sold 1983 GLX Blu-sold 1989 Blk coupe-sold 1990 Blu hatch-crushed 1993 white vert-sold 1985 gt hatch white-sold 1990 Blk coupe-sold 1990 Blk coupe-sold 1990 red hatch-sold 1995 yellow gt-sold 1990 white coupe/nitrous injected-sold 1996 Blk gt-sold 2000 Blk gt- gave to brother 1990 Lincoln LSC-sold stangless for now... |
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#14 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Angleton, Tx
Posts: 21
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weird thing happened to me today...I decided to try and start my stang again..the damn thing fired right up...which was pretty good for sittin for 3 yrs...I got it started once before..but ran like busted ass...today..fired right up and purred like a kitten...other than a lil valve chatter around 3-4K...prolly due to 3 yr old gas...weird though..I was told the motor was bad...supposed to have a bad cylinder per a Ford Dealership....no check engine light...sorry for ramblin..jus thought I would tell yas...
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#15 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS
Posts: 1,252
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i think your going to need to keep your old coil packs and splice the wires to adapt to your wiring harness, it should bolt on only problems are basically the wiring harness.
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