[lilbluehatch]

i got a guy thats been pushin me to buy his 65 for 2500$ its got a 289 i think factory interior with quite a bit of rust on the quater panel needs paint has american racing rims being that im more into the fox body style i dont know squat on the classics and dont know if this would be a good purchase im planning on getting it for my dad he says it hasnt been ran for about 2-3 yrs any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Ryan_65Stallion]

Hey man. I got a '65 coupe and love it.
Easy to work on, easy to maintain, no car payment.
Thats not a bad price if its got a good interior and ok body.
But you'll have to rebuild that 289 it being not run in 2 to 3 years.

[lilbluehatch]

ya i figured i would put somethin a lil bigger in the moter area my pops still gets his days when he wants to go fast ill post some pics sometime this week

[Ryan_65Stallion]

Originally Posted by lilbluehatch

ya i figured i would put somethin a lil bigger in the moter area my pops still gets his days when he wants to go fast ill post some pics sometime this week

You don't need to replace that 289, they're pretty strong stock. Look into comp cams, go with xtreme energy or high energy. find a good set of heads, and a nice intake and carb and that 289 will be pretty strong.

[thatdavidkid]

Originally Posted by Ryan_65Stallion

Hey man. I got a '65 coupe and love it.
Easy to work on, easy to maintain, no car payment.
Thats not a bad price if its got a good interior and ok body.
But you'll have to rebuild that 289 it being not run in 2 to 3 years.

huh????? just take the right precautions before trying to start it and you'll be fine... my coupe wasn't driven in almost 5 yrs when i got it... granted it's a different motor, but still..

be very careful on classic mustangs if you're buying it to drive and not to restore... check the floor pans carefully, that'll be a good indication if it's leaking into the car or not, also , the cowl panel on those are notorious for leaking.. it looks kinda goofy but my friend just put a piece of plexi glass over the vent to keep water out....

[Ryan_65Stallion]

Originally Posted by thatdavidkid

huh????? just take the right precautions before trying to start it and you'll be fine... my coupe wasn't driven in almost 5 yrs when i got it... granted it's a different motor, but still..

be very careful on classic mustangs if you're buying it to drive and not to restore... check the floor pans carefully, that'll be a good indication if it's leaking into the car or not, also , the cowl panel on those are notorious for leaking.. it looks kinda goofy but my friend just put a piece of plexi glass over the vent to keep water out....

every cowl leaks on the classics... but thats why they make covers for them, but only when it rains otherwise you don't get get defroster blow

[lilbluehatch]

ya well i ended up buying the car yesterday im pretty excited to get it runnin again i check floor panels and had a little bit of rust but not to bad unlike my fox. im probably going to get it running just to get around town then when i get back from college imma completely restore it from ground up ill make sure to take plenty of pics!!

[Wiked]

Congrats on the purchase man

[Ryan_65Stallion]

Congrats on the purchase. First things you want to do though so you won't be kicking yourself in the ass later.
Ditch the points and condenser. Upgrade to HEI or get a platronix kit. Trust me.
Good luck though!

[aguilarf]

Originally Posted by Ryan_65Stallion

Congrats on the purchase. First things you want to do though so you won't be kicking yourself in the ass later.
Ditch the points and condenser. Upgrade to HEI or get a platronix kit. Trust me.
Good luck though!

I beleive you mean Pertronix.

Ignitor

[Ryan_65Stallion]

Originally Posted by aguilarf

I beleive you mean Pertronix.

Ignitor

Yes.. asshole

Thats a real good kit, I was looking at that one, but I got the HEI instead...
have a look at these...
HEI Ignition

[aguilarf]

I'll let that go this time. Next time I won't be so forgiving.

On another note, congrats on your purchase.

Another route you could also take is to swap out your points type distributor for a Ford Duraspark distributor. When I had my 71 Torino GT with a 351C, I did this swap using a Duraspark distributor from a 1984 Ford. I got the dist. and coil at a salvage yard along with some of the wire harness. The only thing I purchased new to be safe was the Duraspark module.

This just gives you an idea of the versatilty you have in modding an older car. In retrospect, I regret getting rid of the 71, it's real easy to get carried away when doing a restoration or restomod. It can become a real money pit.

You can look at the following page for one persons write up on doing this dist. swap.

Duraspark II -- The Ford V-8 Engine Workshop

[lilbluehatch]

imma have to look into that thank yall for your help

[Ryan_65Stallion]

Originally Posted by aguilarf

I'll let that go this time. Next time I won't be so forgiving.

On another note, congrats on your purchase.

Another route you could also take is to swap out your points type distributor for a Ford Duraspark distributor. When I had my 71 Torino GT with a 351C, I did this swap using a Duraspark distributor from a 1984 Ford. I got the dist. and coil at a salvage yard along with some of the wire harness. The only thing I purchased new to be safe was the Duraspark module.

This just gives you an idea of the versatilty you have in modding an older car. In retrospect, I regret getting rid of the 71, it's real easy to get carried away when doing a restoration or restomod. It can become a real money pit.

You can look at the following page for one persons write up on doing this dist. swap.

Duraspark II -- The Ford V-8 Engine Workshop

Could you not sense the sarcasm? Thats why I put a after it.
Jeez

[drewskie68]

... also i dno if you got it started or not, but you mightt want to replace the gas tank along with all of the fuel lines/filter. when i had my 68, we waited on all that and there was loads of gunk that got into the engine and was a real pain in the ass cuz id break down every other day or so on the side of the road

[9treredcoupe]

Originally Posted by Ryan_65Stallion

Yes.. asshole

Damn! kid, u seem like u like to piss off a lot of people for some strange reason.

[12second5.0]

Congrats on the purchase. Classics can be alot of fun.

[Mustang_68_Coup]

Originally Posted by lilbluehatch

ya well i ended up buying the car yesterday...!!

Congrats! Welcome to the Classics!!

They are fun and easy to work on ... and you can either have a fun little econo-classic, or you can have the high-dollar resto-mod classic ... It just depends on how deep your pockets are!!! LOL!

Your 289 will be a good power plant to have in there ... parts are cheap and plentiful, and you'll get decent gas mileage (a consideration lately!!) as long as you keep your foot outta it. And when you do get your foot into it, that little 289 will be fun enough!

Originally Posted by drewskie68

... you mightt want to replace the gas tank along with all of the fuel lines/filter. when i had my 68, we waited on all that and there was loads of gunk that got into the engine and was a real pain in the ass cuz id break down every other day or so on the side of the road

YES! Make sure to clean the tank before you try pumping that tar up through your fuel lines ...

There is a little drain plug on the passenger side that you can remove ... dump a quart of gas in there and jump on the bumper for a little bit (to slosh the gas around, melting any tar that is stuck in there) and then drain the stuff out and LOOK AT IT. If it's nice and fresh looking, you may be safe -- if it is gunky looking, DROP THE TANK AND CLEAN IT before trying to turn the engine over.

[keg65]

To clean the tank, you'll need a pressure washer, some MEK to dissolve the varnished fuel, and maybe some muratic acid to clean up any rust. Wash out the inside of the tank with the pressure washer, most of the gummed up fuel should break lose, but some of it will be like paint and really stuck. Methyl Ethyl Keytone (MEK) is highly flammable and fumes are bad, but it does work. Let it soak on the areas with the varnished gas. If the tank is rusty inside, some muratic acid will take that away without eating away the metal. Rinse out, blow dry with compressed air. I used to use a torch to dry, but that can be risky.
replace all rubber fuel lines and fuel filter. Odds are the carb will need to be rebuilt too, since the varnished fuel is in there too.

Check your rubber brake lines, and it if has been sitting, then pull off the brake drums to check it the wheel cylinders are leaking. Brake fluid attracts water, which settles to the bottom in the cylinders. Most likely replacing them is best.

Also do what you need to stop the rust. Don't just cover up the floors with new sheet metal. the rust must be stopped.

Everything is quite simple to do, but very necessary to have a safe driver that will last and be reliable.

Good luck and congrats