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Old 01-13-2008, 10:27 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by 96greengt View Post
You must not know a modular then do you?
Well as you can see by number of posts and join date, I haven't been on here long, but that's why I joined. I'm a chevy guy at heart, but I bought my GT for a daily driver since chevy had no good offerings at the time. What makes it so different from any other style of engine?
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2002 Mustang GT, 271hp/306tq on 87 CMR Tune, Roush short throw rally style shifter, King Cobra Clutch, Roush CAI, C&L Plenum, BBK/Roush 75mm T/B, Kooks L/Ts w/catted X, Bassani Cat-back, Eibach Pro-kit Springs, Energy Suspension bushings, KYB AGX's, Hotchkis C/C plates, UPR ProStreet rear control arms, Brembo Drilled/Hawk pads, BFG's, Dual Halo Projector 8k HIDs, Kenwood: KDC-X790, KAC-9102D, KAC-8402; Infinity: 6810CS, 6812CF; Orion: P series subs all powered by Optima
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Old 01-13-2008, 10:34 AM   #22
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Bearing clearance is key here, hence it's longevity. Post count nor rime here on the boards has nothing to do with knowledge of a 4.6 really.

I work on cars for a living, so that helps, but it is also a hobby of mine. I have built several 4.6 engines in the past and just recently did one for myself. On the engine that I tore down and built for mine, I inspected the bearings and clearances (just for giggles, mind you, this engine I bought off e-bay with an "advertised" 100k miles on it), the only thing I found worn in this engine were the timing chain guides. Somewhere, I still have the rod bearings, I shit you not, you can still see the stamping Ford put on the riding surface that showed the date. All the other engines I have torn down using the proper oils (not saying 5w30 will cause damage, nor 10w30) but engines torn down "maintaining" their car will have virtually no bearing wear. My old 96 engine which has 193k miles is clean, no sludge, I have not torn it down, but I will bet money the clearances are just as tight.
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Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts.
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Old 01-13-2008, 10:50 AM   #23
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Question

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Originally Posted by 96greengt View Post
Bearing clearance is key here, hence it's longevity. Post count nor rime here on the boards has nothing to do with knowledge of a 4.6 really.

I work on cars for a living, so that helps, but it is also a hobby of mine. I have built several 4.6 engines in the past and just recently did one for myself. On the engine that I tore down and built for mine, I inspected the bearings and clearances (just for giggles, mind you, this engine I bought off e-bay with an "advertised" 100k miles on it), the only thing I found worn in this engine were the timing chain guides. Somewhere, I still have the rod bearings, I shit you not, you can still see the stamping Ford put on the riding surface that showed the date. All the other engines I have torn down using the proper oils (not saying 5w30 will cause damage, nor 10w30) but engines torn down "maintaining" their car will have virtually no bearing wear. My old 96 engine which has 193k miles is clean, no sludge, I have not torn it down, but I will bet money the clearances are just as tight.
Yeah, I know some situations it doesn't mean anything, but this one it does. I'm a newb to Fords. I've never done internal work on any engine mind you. All this has me considering switching oils on my chevy truck too, cuz mileage sucks on that, but it's older than me and its carbed. Problem is I just changed both them, so I'll have to wait awhile. I read some of your engine build thread a while back, so I know you know what you're talking about. When do these engines usually require a rebuild, and what is the most common cause? As stated before, I've got about 71k on it now. Had 58.5k when I got it. Thanks for any info.
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2002 Mustang GT, 271hp/306tq on 87 CMR Tune, Roush short throw rally style shifter, King Cobra Clutch, Roush CAI, C&L Plenum, BBK/Roush 75mm T/B, Kooks L/Ts w/catted X, Bassani Cat-back, Eibach Pro-kit Springs, Energy Suspension bushings, KYB AGX's, Hotchkis C/C plates, UPR ProStreet rear control arms, Brembo Drilled/Hawk pads, BFG's, Dual Halo Projector 8k HIDs, Kenwood: KDC-X790, KAC-9102D, KAC-8402; Infinity: 6810CS, 6812CF; Orion: P series subs all powered by Optima
My car http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2628572
My truck http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2206751
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Old 01-13-2008, 10:54 AM   #24
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They should not need a rebuild unless something goes wrong internally. As far as the Chevy, you can run the thicker oils in them because those were the older engines with much greater bearing tolerances.
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Originally Posted by hoss302
lol dont worry jody hates everyone..



Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts.
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