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Old 09-22-2007, 08:34 PM   #1
audio1
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Antonio, Tx.
Posts: 24

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WET SANDING......

To all who have questions about wet sanding.

Along with car audio, I have been doing body work and custom paint since 1997.

Wet sanding is a LONG job and most all shops do it when fresh clear is applied. You can wet sand to reduce orange peel (texture) in the clear, or to get out very small scratches (as long as they arein the clear and through it).

If I going to wet sand factory clear, I will use 2000 or 2500 gritt paper with a soft block. The block allows you to get a even sand. If you sand without a block, you tend to put pressure on the car with your finger tips which cause uneven sanding.

Once the wet sanding is done, it is now time to buff it all.
I use all 3M compounds for buffing. I really like the 3M perfect-it 3.
After it is all buffed, you will beed to then polish the car. Once again I use a 3M product for polishing. I use the micro finishing polishng compound.

After it polished and WASHED, I use 3M imperial hand glaze. The hand glaze is APPLIED BY HAND...NOT THE BUFFER. It removes light swirl marks caused by the buffer, etc. It also acts as a wax. There no need to apply it agin for at least 2 months.

Shops will charge a arm and leg for a good wet sand and buff job. Please check out the shops before handing over a ton of money.

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Below is two paint jobs that I did. One was for a guy in Dripping springs Tx. It is the 1969 Roadrunner. The other is the Hondo, Tx. PD Dare truck.

audio1_plus@yahoo.com
830-444-6522
Thanks,
TJ
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