[Jay Tee]

Hello people I am back with another do-it-yourselfer,The 4:10 gears install in my 2005 GT
Let me tell you that this is not for the week do-it-yourselfer, I had to borrow exter tools from friends (I had to borrow a ½” drive air impact gun and some sockets and a torque wrench and a pulley puller) it took me about 9 hours over a period of 5 days working for about an hour and a half each day. It was not rocket science but you do NEED TO VERY THOROUGH AND DILLAGENT if you should choose to accept the mission…
Ok now on to the fun

Gather up the tools and stuff you will need, like a pair of jack stands, a floor jack, wrenches and sockets and a ½” drive impact with a 1 and 1/16 socket and a torque wrench (pic 1) now I drove the car up onto some blocks (pic 2) once on the blocks I used some 4x6s to block the front wheels form rolling while I jacked up the back of the car.
Then place a pice of wood on the floor jack then roll it under the differential to jack it up
(pic 3) and now jack up to your desired height. For me it was about 18 high (pic 4)
Now look up under the car just behind the mufflers (axel backs) and you will see the sub frame of the car (pic 5) that’s where you will put the jack stand at..

[Jay Tee]

Now position the jack stand and raise it up to the sub frame and make sure its centered (pic 6) now do the other side (pic 7) make sure the stands are locked in place and the lower the car on to the stands and remove the floor jack(pic 8) shake the car to make sure it has settled on the stands before you get under it.
Remove the wheels (pic 9) and don’t let the wheel get away from you (pic10)

[Jay Tee]

Now lock the parking brake (you need it to hold the drive shaft from spinning)
Now its time to unbolt the drive shaft from the differential (pick 11) there are 6 LONG bolts that have lots of LOC-TIGHT on them , don’t lose the retainers (pick 13) once you have all 6 bolts out just wiggle the drive shaft and push it towards the tranny (pick 14)
See all the loc-tight ford put on! It made it hard to wrench the bolts off.
Now you an see the pinion nut (pick 15) now grab the 1and 1/16 socket with ratchet (pic16)

[Jay Tee]

Now remove the pinion nut (if you can) it was very hard to do!! It was so tight that I could not brake it lose with a ½” drive ratchet no matter how hard I pulled or pushed (pic 17) had to borrow an impact tool to remove it (pic18) once I broke it lose with the impact I could now use the ratchet to get it off (pic 19) yep it too was full of loc-tight (pick 20)
Now its off after about 30 min’s of fighting with it (pic 21) damm that was hard!!!

[Jay Tee]

Now its time for the pulley puller to come into play. Use the fine thread bolts to mount the puller putting the bolts 180deg. Apart from eachother (pic 22) now ratchet it off (it comes off pretty ez (pic23) when it starts to come off oil will start coming out (pick 24) Use a 2 quart pan to catch it (pick 25) Now when it feels lose just grab it and pull it away (pic26)

[Jay Tee]

Now remove the yoke (pic27 and 28) and set it aside now you are ready to remove the diff-cover, Notice the sticker on the cover (pic29)now get the ratchet with the proper socket on and brake the cover bolts lose (pic30) all 10 of them (pic31)

[Jay Tee]

Once all the bolts are off use a screw driver to pry the cover off (pic32)and be sure to the pan under to catch the oil as it pours out (pic33) now that the oil has drained remove the cover(pic34)and (pic35)now you can see the stock 3:55 gears (pic36)

[Jay Tee]

Now spin the ring gear around till you see the carrier shaft bolt (pic37) and (pic38)
After I did that I went to the axel hub (the part where the wheel mounts to)
And start to remove the disc brakes (pic39)To remove them you just unbolt them .there is 2 bolts on the back side of the caliper where the rubber boots are at (pic40) now remove the bolts and set aside (pic41)

[Jay Tee]

Now just grab the caliper and wiggle it as you pull away from the rotor (pic42) the brake pads may fall off , that’s ok.,Use a coat hanger to hang the caliper (pic43)so you don’t damage the brake line,
Now remove the caliper bracket its bolted on with 2 bolts(pic44) and (pic45)
Now just pull the bracket off and set it aside (pic46) with the brake out of the way
Now remove the rotor retaining washer (pic47) see it at the 6 o’clock position

[Jay Tee]

Use a screw driver to pry the washer away from the rotor (pic49) then grab it with vise-grips or whatever (pic50) and (pic51)Don’t worry you won’t need em
Now just slide the rotor off the axel hub (pic52) there it is the axel now repeat the same process for the other side..

[Jay Tee]

Now back to the diff.now that you have removed the calipers and rotors its time to remove the axels unscrew the locking pin (pic54) and (pic55) and set the locking pin in a SAFE PLACE, now slide out the carrier pin (pic56) and (pic57) now go to the axel hub and push the axel IN(pic57a)

[Jay Tee]

Now with carrier pin removed and the axels pushed in its time to remove the “C” clips(pic58) use a screw driver to slide em off the axel shaft(pic59) do the same for the other side (pic60)you may have to push the”C” clip out with a screw driver (pic61)
Now go pull the axels out about 4 inches out from the car (pic62) and be careful not to damage the ABS sensor (pic62)

[Jay Tee]

Now that the axels are out (pic63) you will need to unbolt the differential support rod (pic64) and just pull it out of your way as needed (pic65) now brake lose the carrier bearing cap bolts all 4 of them (pic66) and (pic67)

[Jay Tee]

DO NOT MIX THE CAPS!! MARK EM AS YOU TAKE EM OFF so you know what side they came off (pic68 and 69) THIS IS VERY IMPORNENT!!!
Now the carrier is ready to come out (pic71)
Grab it and wiggle it out and catch the shims as they come out with it (pic72) DO NOT MIX THE BEARING RETANERS MAKE SURE THAT YOU MARK THEM AS TO WHAT SIDE OF THE CARRIER THAY CAME OFF FROM!!!!!(pic73)

[Jay Tee]

Now the ring gear will come out (pic74) the support bar will move out of your way when you touch it with the carrier (pic75) now its out (pic76) now I set in the bearing retainer so I can remove the ring gear bolts (pic77) I toke out the traction-loc clutches to inspect them (pic78) YOU WILL NOT NEED TO DO THAT I JUST WANTED TO SEE HOW IT WORKED!!

[Jay Tee]

Everything was good no wear on the carbon fiber clutches cleaned it up a little (pic79)
Clean the carrier housing (pic80) and tap out the pinion gear with a small hammer (pic81) it came out pretty ez.
Now remove the old seal and front pinion bearing and the oil slinger (pic82) I used a cut down broom stick cut to 18 inches long and taped it out from behind (pic83)

[Jay Tee]

Once the front seal was out the bearing just falls right out (pic84 and 85 and 86)
Now clean the front race with a towel to clean up any wood that I might have left from knocking out the seal(pic87 and 88)

[Jay Tee]

Now that’s done get back to carrier and remove the old ring gear (pic89 and 90)
Once you have all the bolts off the ring will just fall off with a light tap to the side with the wrench (pic91) now I reinstalled the traction-loc clutches and spider gears (pics94 and 95)

[Jay Tee]

The old ring and pinion on the left and the 4:10s on the right(pic96) I used the supplied thread lock on all of the ring gear bolts (pic99) then wrench the bolts down (pic100)
Then put the carrier in the vise between 2 pieces of wood and torque the ring gear bolts to 85 foot pounds (pic101) now set carrier with the new ring aside (pic102)

[Jay Tee]

Now get the old pinion gear and heat the bearing with a propane torch for about 3 to 4 minutes (pic103) DO NOT GET THE BEARING RED HOT !!!
Now grab the pinion with a towel or heavy glove and hit the threaded end on something hard like the vise or the floor and the bearing will come off (pics 104-105-106 and 107)or you can take it to shop to press it off!