Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerocoupe
If it is wired up like most mini starters I would suggest you use 4 ga wire if the battery is located under the hood. If the electrical loads are high then 2 ga will work better. If the battery is in the trunk then go with 1 ga. from the battery to the inner fender mounted starter solenoid (stock Fox).
Battery 12V + to post on inner fender mounted starter solenoid closest to battery - 4 ga.
Battery 12V - to frame ground - 4 ga.
Frame to engine block ground - 4 ga.
From the post on the inner fender mounted starter solenoid that is closest to the shock tower to the male blade connection on the mini starter mounted you only need 10 ga. This is the trigger wire to excite the coil on the mini stater solenoid so it does not pull a large amount of current. From the post on the mini starter solenoid to the post on the battery side of the inner fender mounted starter solenoid use 4 ga. See diagram below.
http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/027___IS_PMGR.pdf
I like to run the wires from the inner fender mounted solenoid to the mini starter solenoid just in front of the motor. I run mine above the rack and pinion and then between the oil pan and the motor mount on the passenger side. The name of the game is to keep it away from the exhaust and where it will not get damaged by debris on the road and pinched by moving parts. I have this done on my T-Bird that has long tube headers and the Coupe with shorties and I have zero heat soak issues with the ministarters. I had more issues with the old style starters than a panhandling crack head.
Hope you get it figured out.
Darren |
dam thanks alot. i think some long tubes will let some of that heat get out.i def keep you guys posted