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im getting closer to putting the motor in. Just need to bolt down heads and intake and get a few more things. Some of the questions are Will the stock 5.0 motor mounts work or will i need to use my 65 motor mounts. And will my stock distributor work with a different gear? If so which gear? when i do the swap i dont want to run into any headaches. thanks for any info. oh yeah by the way i know i need to get a elec. fuel pump as well. Not sure which one though. any suggestions?
From what I've researched, you are suppose to use the stock '65 motor mounts and a frame mounted fuel pump with a return.Originally Posted by 65mustangscott
Use your 65 motor mounts and yes you will need a steel or bronze distributor gear for the hydraulic roller camshaft . As for fuel pumps , you will need something that will make at least 40 psi for it to operate properly .
Are you going to use an auto or a manual transmission? Also what are you going to use for accessory belt set up? It will make a difference on multiple things. Basicaly the 5.0s use a 4 bolt crank pulley, 50 oz. imballance ballancer and fly wheel, the 289 uses a 28 oz. imballance ballancer and flywheel. You will need to use a 50 oz. imballance flywheel and ballancer. The radiator in your car will have the water necks on the right side of the radiator. All '70 and later Ford engines have the upper neck on the right side and the lower on the left side. The 5.0s have a different timing cover and the water pump is a reverse rotation pump. So the easiest way to make the later model 5.0 fit in your car would probably be use all of the later model pullies and accesories and replace the radiator with one from a '70 mustang or possibly a Maveric. Also the later model blocks do not have the threaded hole on the left rear side of the block for the Z bar if you were going to use a manual transmission and the old clutch linkage. The '70 to '73 mustangs have a steel bracket for the Z bar that is held on by the bellhousing bolts. If you went with a manual and chose to use the old linkage you would need one of those brackets. You could convert it to use a cable or hydraulic linkage, if you plan on using a manual transmission. A C4 would definitely be easier.
The current combo is an '85 coupe with 302 bored and stroked to 364, Ported Twisted Wedge heads and a BXR intake, A9M ECM with a Moates chip, Doug Nash 5 spd, 4.56 gears, Hoosier 275/60/15 drag radials.
Daily driver '89 GT 302 stock block, crank, rods and pistons, ported GT-40P heads with stock valves, Ported Explorer intake, B302 cam, Z spec T5, 3.73 gears, Moates chip and no traction. Made 325 whp and 325 wtq.
i gonna use the serp. belt and accesories. I found a company that sells a radiator crossover tube for the roller block and im going to run a tci c4. I need to order the 50 oz flexplate when i pull the motor to see if i have the large or small bellhousing. Its going to have a rpm air gap and a holley 650 dp. i forgot to mention its going to be carbed so im not planing on a return line. As for the fuel pump i was looking at the holley black pump will this be too large. And as far as the distributor gear where can i get one from? Thanks for the input so far. One more thing what about my original starter and wiring up the new style alternator.
Last edited by 65mustangscott; 02-12-2009 at 01:50 PM.
hey man I got a mallory unilite comp distributor that will wrk on your setup especially carb. Give me a call if your interested.
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Last edited by 1BigBad4d; 03-04-2011 at 02:39 PM.
Holley black pump will be fine.
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Last edited by 1BigBad4d; 03-04-2011 at 02:39 PM.
so guys im runing into the same issue on the distributor gear for my engine swap, ive got the distributor out of the 89 but the gear inside diameter is too large, larger than the shaft on my 66 distributor idk where to find the gear to work, ive got a brand new 66 distributor, single vacuum advance and a petronix unit in it, all i need now is that dam gear lol
You may want to invest in a MSD Dizy (Bronze Gear) and Box, 6AL, to cover your ingnition needs
I would run a MSD set up. However you will still need to get the correct gear since MSD sends them with a non roller gear installed. I had kotzur's shop swap mine out on the 85 when I put the MSD in it. As for the fuel pump if you run an early T/C cover you can still run a mech pump since you are going Carb set up. As for the radiator you can always go to a radiator shop and have them move the necks to the proper locations assuming your radiator is decent will be cheaper than a new one.
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ford racing M12390B drive gear is the one to get.
Yes you are correct, the H.O. roller cam distributors have a larger shaft above the part of the shaft that goes through the hole in the block, below the gear on the shaft. The upper part of the shaft is the same size as a 351W. The upper part of the distributor shaft where the gear is, is smaller on the 221, 260, 289 and the older 302s distributors. I would either get a MSD distributor with a steel gear or a '85 H.O. 5 speed Duraspark distributor, the '85 GTs with a T5 had roller cams, carbs and duraspark distributors with a steel gear, I think it also used a 351 diameter upper shaft. Which if you use the whole distributor will not be a problem.
I don't know if anyone makes a steel gear for the smaller distributor shaft, if anyone does it would most likely be MSD. You can get a bronse gear from MSD, probably Ford Racing and a few other companies, but the bronze gear will not last as long. If the car is only driven a few thousand miles a year, a bronze gear should last a few years. I have heard of bronze gears wearing out as early as 5K miles, but that is most likely when a high vollume or high pressure oil pump is used.
The current combo is an '85 coupe with 302 bored and stroked to 364, Ported Twisted Wedge heads and a BXR intake, A9M ECM with a Moates chip, Doug Nash 5 spd, 4.56 gears, Hoosier 275/60/15 drag radials.
Daily driver '89 GT 302 stock block, crank, rods and pistons, ported GT-40P heads with stock valves, Ported Explorer intake, B302 cam, Z spec T5, 3.73 gears, Moates chip and no traction. Made 325 whp and 325 wtq.
I have heard and seen this too, but mostly when a bronze gear is used on a flat tappet cam.
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