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Just wondering what type of headers everyone would recommend. my car has a 289 and a 3 spd manuel. i was looking at the Hooker comp headers. My biggest concern is how the headers will fit past the clutch fork. It looks like it would be right in the way with aftermarket headers. If anyone has any pics of there headers on the left side of the engine, It would help out a lot. thanks guys.
Get rid of the bellcrank setup and go with a cable clutch.It'll work so much better.Originally Posted by schwanz583
Plus no header issues.
I am just a lowlife overseas contractor who is all about the money.......
Cool, I didnt know you could do that. Any recommendations on where I can find a kit to do that?? ThanksGet rid of the bellcrank setup and go with a cable clutch.It'll work so much better.
I think I gave you the wrong info. You can go hydraulic with your current setup. Cable if you decide to swap out the trans for a T-5. These guys have alot of really cool stuff for the classics. Mustang Parts from Mustangs Plus
I am just a lowlife overseas contractor who is all about the money.......
Most descriptions will include if it will work with a standard trans. I know in a 65 the hooker headers will work with the clutch linkage. Think most have problems with power steering more than bell crank.
2012 Mustang GT5.0, 6 speed, Brembo packageBarton short throw shifter, Magnaflow Competition Exhaust, JLT carbon fiber CAI, SCT X3, UPR uca and lca, JLT oil separator.
You can get headers that will work with the stock early linkage set up. However it would be a great improvement to go the hyd route.
Yrs ago I had a 67 f/b 289 standard trans. I had L/Ts on it with the stock linkage,
04 Oxford White MACH1,5 SPD with IUP,K&NAircharger
Borla Stingers,SLP Catted X pipe,Tri-ax,SCT Flashtune,Max Mtr Spt 4 bolt adj C/C plates, Drilled/Slotted rotors all 4 corners. 17x9 frt 17x10 rear D/D Blk bullitt's
281 rwhp on Mustang Dyno,306 rwhp on a Dynojet
94 Black Lightning Daily Driver
85GT FACH1 FINISHED
Fathom the odd hypocrisy that Obama wants every citizen to prove they are insured, but people don't have to prove they are citizens.
If you voted for Obama in 2008 to prove you weren’t a racist, you’d better vote for someone else in 2012 to prove you’re not an idiot.
The Navy SEALS removed one Muslim threat to America ...
It's up to the voters to remove the other!
1st link is to a site with alot o headers for early stangs. Seems JBA's will work with the z bar
Speedy Car Parts - Auto Parts and Accessories Catalog - Dynomax Headers 1965 Ford Mustang
This linkis a set of JBAs for man trans car
Speedy Car Parts - Auto Parts and Accessories Catalog - Headers - JBA 1965 Ford Mustang
04 Oxford White MACH1,5 SPD with IUP,K&NAircharger
Borla Stingers,SLP Catted X pipe,Tri-ax,SCT Flashtune,Max Mtr Spt 4 bolt adj C/C plates, Drilled/Slotted rotors all 4 corners. 17x9 frt 17x10 rear D/D Blk bullitt's
281 rwhp on Mustang Dyno,306 rwhp on a Dynojet
94 Black Lightning Daily Driver
85GT FACH1 FINISHED
Fathom the odd hypocrisy that Obama wants every citizen to prove they are insured, but people don't have to prove they are citizens.
If you voted for Obama in 2008 to prove you weren’t a racist, you’d better vote for someone else in 2012 to prove you’re not an idiot.
The Navy SEALS removed one Muslim threat to America ...
It's up to the voters to remove the other!
The Hooker are probably about the best headers available for the early Mustangs. The bell crank is known as a Z bar or at least it used to be called a Z bar. Also like posted previously, Hooker should list in their catalong what type of transmisions each part number header will work with. Most of the headers for the early Mustangs are designed to clear the Z bar. It is a pain to install the headers with the car on the ground, if the car still has a Z bar in it, but it can be done. Both of my '69s had 4 spd transmissions and the original Z bar. I installed engines in both cars with the car on the ground, I had to install the headers, tie them in place with wire, then install the Z bar and then install the engine. If you can afford to convert the clutch linkage to hydraulic linkage, it does cure mulitple problems, such as the clutch linkage wearing out.
The current combo is an '85 coupe with 302 bored and stroked to 364, Ported Twisted Wedge heads and a BXR intake, A9M ECM with a Moates chip, Doug Nash 5 spd, 4.56 gears, Hoosier 275/60/15 drag radials.
Daily driver '89 GT 302 stock block, crank, rods and pistons, ported GT-40P heads with stock valves, Ported Explorer intake, B302 cam, Z spec T5, 3.73 gears, Moates chip and no traction. Made 325 whp and 325 wtq.
i think its a pain to instal headers any way. haha! longtubes anyway. Ive had to take mine off a couple of times, once for burned up gasket, and twice to remove the starter. Pain in the butt. also remember to tighten those bolts every now and then, for some reason they get loose, both topside and bottom, otherwise youll end up with a burned up gasket like me. learned my lesson.
1973 Coupe:
351 EFI roller swap(tuned by Ron Bell)
CAI
GT40 upper/lower
Eddie performer RPM heads
X303 cam
hedman elite headers
2.5" pypes full exhuast, X pipe, Violators
Converted to AOD, edre racing 3500 stall, with Lentech street termintor Valve body and B&M Quicksilver ratchet shifter
Grab a track front and rear suspension
Converted to Power Front Disk brakes
9" 3.50 Traktion lock
"Clifford" -work truck
'99 F250 PSD, stock turbo, ext cab, long bed, Bully Dog Switch.chip, AFE stage II CAI, guages, Converted to flatbed duallie
Use longer header bolts, they will not vibrate loose like the shorter header bolts do.
The current combo is an '85 coupe with 302 bored and stroked to 364, Ported Twisted Wedge heads and a BXR intake, A9M ECM with a Moates chip, Doug Nash 5 spd, 4.56 gears, Hoosier 275/60/15 drag radials.
Daily driver '89 GT 302 stock block, crank, rods and pistons, ported GT-40P heads with stock valves, Ported Explorer intake, B302 cam, Z spec T5, 3.73 gears, Moates chip and no traction. Made 325 whp and 325 wtq.
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