95 GT Clicking

d4rkpri35t · 02-04-2008, 08:09 PM

I just bought a 95 gt and everything was working perfectly on it then i come out of a tattoo shop and all it did was click... so we push started it and took it home then let it sit and idle for about thirty minutes. turned it off then set the alarm,, i wake up in the morning and turn it over and it just clicked again.. i tested the battery, cleaned the terminals, did all that good shit but nothing worked. i figured it was like my 87 5.0 and went to buy a starter solenoid but i cant find the solenoid on the firewall.. i was told that the solenoid is built into the starter but i'm not sure.. but then why would they sell me a part that isn't on the car :| :|

but anyways if someone can help me out that would be great.

thanks

TheBocSez · 02-04-2008, 08:11 PM

Think what they meant was that the solenoid is attached to the starter - on top of it maybe?

SUfanINsa · 02-04-2008, 08:38 PM

starter and solenoid are all one piece i believe

LugNutZ · 02-04-2008, 08:58 PM

The starter "solenoid" is piggybacked on the starter, the starter "relay" is underneath the hood near the fuse box.

txlen · 02-04-2008, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LugNutZ

The starter "solenoid" is piggybacked on the starter, the starter "relay" is underneath the hood near the fuse box.

exactly.....

d4rkpri35t · 02-04-2008, 11:24 PM

right on so if the relay is out would it click or will i have to replace the starter in it's entirety

T5killa · 02-07-2008, 06:30 PM

If the relay was out it wouldn't click. You'll have to replace the whole starter. it'd be like 70 bucks at o'reillys with your core.

Lifted78Chevy · 02-08-2008, 12:33 AM

yep sounds like a starter......piece of cake to swap.

Aerocoupe · 02-08-2008, 09:25 AM

Remove the starter and take it to a parts store. They should be able to test it for you and let you know if it is bad or if it is the solenoid. Typically if they are just clicking it is a low voltage situation. How did you test the battery?

Darren

thatdavidkid · 02-08-2008, 09:53 AM

+1... if it was a fast clicking, it sounds like a battery to me...

highspeed · 02-08-2008, 11:54 PM

If it is the starter... have someone try to start it while you are under the car tapping on the starter with a hammer. If this causes the starter to kick out and start the car, then you just isolated your problem. A starter tends to have bendix problems when they get older and can cause this clicking as a result due to the bendix hanging.

Good Luck!!!

T5killa · 02-09-2008, 10:22 AM

I would test the battery while you are trying to crank with an volt meter even if the battery says 12 volts. If it drops under 5 when trying to crank try to jumpstart it.

96greengt · 02-09-2008, 04:40 PM

Make sure there is no massive amounts of corrosion on the battery cables either. Too much corrosion and you have a voltage drop. But it sounds like a weak battery to me.

d4rkpri35t · 02-10-2008, 04:27 PM

alright guys i went ahead and replaced the starter/solenoid, dropped in a brand new battery, checked the flywheel for broken teeth and it's still just clicking.. i tested the old starter and it said it was fine but i replaced it anyways.. theres no corrosion on the terminals or anything like that. all it's doing is clicking real fast..

96greengt · 02-10-2008, 06:25 PM

Bad ignition switch?

thatdavidkid · 02-10-2008, 06:27 PM

that would be my next guess... not enough signal to the solonoid

d4rkpri35t · 02-10-2008, 10:38 PM

what would be a way to test ignition switch i attempted to put a wire to the power and ground on the solenoid and tap em with the clutch engaged and the key turned.. but nothing happened.. just the alarm went off..

96greengt · 02-10-2008, 10:56 PM

The switch is on the steering column. Disconnect it and it should be eithet the two yellow wires or the two reds, one has a white stripe if memory serves me correctly without pulling up a schematic. Jump them at the switch and see if the starter engages. But mostly, you'll be looking for a burned connector end.

d4rkpri35t · 03-06-2008, 03:17 PM

car was working for a while then it started with it's bullshit clicking again. it's not coil, starter, solenoid, etc. but the recommended ca for the 95 gt is 500. if it's not a high enough ca could that cause the problem?

txlen · 03-06-2008, 03:46 PM

Whoa...wait a minute....you have an aftermarket alarm on it correct??? betcha the starter kill on it is taking a dump..

02-04-2008, 08:09 PM	#1
d4rkpri35t '87 LX 'n '95 GT Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Sweetwater Posts: 352 Trader Rating: (0)	95 GT Clicking I just bought a 95 gt and everything was working perfectly on it then i come out of a tattoo shop and all it did was click... so we push started it and took it home then let it sit and idle for about thirty minutes. turned it off then set the alarm,, i wake up in the morning and turn it over and it just clicked again.. i tested the battery, cleaned the terminals, did all that good shit but nothing worked. i figured it was like my 87 5.0 and went to buy a starter solenoid but i cant find the solenoid on the firewall.. i was told that the solenoid is built into the starter but i'm not sure.. but then why would they sell me a part that isn't on the car :\| :\| but anyways if someone can help me out that would be great. thanks __________________ 95 GT 5.0 w/ some bolt-ons, 2" Drop Eibach Suspension, C/C Plates, 17" Steedas 87 LX 306ci Forged w/ bolt-ons, 4.10's, Built T5, Weld Rodlites, BBK Headers, O/R X, Magnaflow Dumps.

02-04-2008, 08:38 PM	#3
SUfanINsa Authorized HATE™ Dealer Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Converse Posts: 8,024 Trader Rating: (3)	starter and solenoid are all one piece i believe __________________ "THIS IS THE INTERNET, IF YOU CANT HANDLE IT GTFO"

02-04-2008, 08:58 PM	#4
LugNutZ GO SPURS GO Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 1,039 Trader Rating: (0)	The starter "solenoid" is piggybacked on the starter, the starter "relay" is underneath the hood near the fuse box. __________________ 1984 GT 1993 GT 2004 GT R.I.P 2003 F-150 4.6l 2007 GT

02-04-2008, 11:24 PM	#6
d4rkpri35t '87 LX 'n '95 GT Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Sweetwater Posts: 352 Trader Rating: (0)	right on so if the relay is out would it click or will i have to replace the starter in it's entirety __________________ 95 GT 5.0 w/ some bolt-ons, 2" Drop Eibach Suspension, C/C Plates, 17" Steedas 87 LX 306ci Forged w/ bolt-ons, 4.10's, Built T5, Weld Rodlites, BBK Headers, O/R X, Magnaflow Dumps.

02-07-2008, 06:30 PM	#7
T5killa Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: San Antonio Posts: 940 Trader Rating: (8)	If the relay was out it wouldn't click. You'll have to replace the whole starter. it'd be like 70 bucks at o'reillys with your core. __________________ The artist formerly known as 210banginstang

02-04-2008, 08:11 PM	#2
TheBocSez Professional Leash Holder Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Converse, TX Posts: 1,084 Trader Rating: (1)	Think what they meant was that the solenoid is attached to the starter - on top of it maybe?

02-08-2008, 12:33 AM	#8
Lifted78Chevy BLOWN & STROKED way i like it. Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: San Antonio Posts: 679 Trader Rating: (2)	yep sounds like a starter......piece of cake to swap. __________________ 1989 LX Coupe 5.0 HP/457 at the fly-514 est. loss 12% get it to the ground TQ/448 at the fly- 501 est. loss 12% to get it to the ground Tuned at PSI.pulled threw 5800 no stop shut it down at 6 grand.... Next motor all out with it...hope make 6-7 hundred hp

02-08-2008, 09:25 AM	#9
Aerocoupe UT Sucks Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Longview, TX Posts: 193 Trader Rating: (0)	Remove the starter and take it to a parts store. They should be able to test it for you and let you know if it is bad or if it is the solenoid. Typically if they are just clicking it is a low voltage situation. How did you test the battery? Darren __________________ '83 5.8L TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle '93 5.0L Mustang coupe that beat your mom's LTD

02-08-2008, 09:53 AM	#10
thatdavidkid looks mean, workin' on the fast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Denton Posts: 3,901 Trader Rating: (1)	+1... if it was a fast clicking, it sounds like a battery to me... __________________ 1991 lx coupe t-5 swap, billit quadrant, upr firewall adjuster, steeda tri-ax, custom jb tool and fab one off subframe connectors, 8.8 w/posi and 4.10's with 5 lug axles, tubular upper control arms, southside lowers, and pbr twin piston front calipers with "snowflake" wheels

02-08-2008, 11:54 PM	#11
highspeed Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: San Antonio Posts: 556 Trader Rating: (2)	If it is the starter... have someone try to start it while you are under the car tapping on the starter with a hammer. If this causes the starter to kick out and start the car, then you just isolated your problem. A starter tends to have bendix problems when they get older and can cause this clicking as a result due to the bendix hanging. Good Luck!!! __________________ Modz Update!!! WTB: I need the following parts for my '94 Stang. PM me if you have any one of the listed components laying around or know someone that does. MAF support brace - '94 GT Maximum Motorsports Panhard Bar Canton radiator overflow reservoir Fidanza or Spec Billet Steel Flywheel - (50oz 302cid 10.5" 157 tooth) T56 Tranny with 5.0L Bellhousing & support brace Maximum Motorsports Tubular K Member Maximum Motorsports Tubular A Arms (std offset) Coil over struts Last edited by highspeed; 02-08-2008 at 11:58 PM.

02-09-2008, 10:22 AM	#12
T5killa Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: San Antonio Posts: 940 Trader Rating: (8)	I would test the battery while you are trying to crank with an volt meter even if the battery says 12 volts. If it drops under 5 when trying to crank try to jumpstart it. __________________ The artist formerly known as 210banginstang

02-09-2008, 04:40 PM	#13
96greengt LOL @ your mom Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: N.E. SA Posts: 8,680 Trader Rating: (21)	Make sure there is no massive amounts of corrosion on the battery cables either. Too much corrosion and you have a voltage drop. But it sounds like a weak battery to me. __________________ Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts, over 300+ RWHP & 320+ TQ

02-10-2008, 04:27 PM	#14
d4rkpri35t '87 LX 'n '95 GT Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Sweetwater Posts: 352 Trader Rating: (0)	alright guys i went ahead and replaced the starter/solenoid, dropped in a brand new battery, checked the flywheel for broken teeth and it's still just clicking.. i tested the old starter and it said it was fine but i replaced it anyways.. theres no corrosion on the terminals or anything like that. all it's doing is clicking real fast.. __________________ 95 GT 5.0 w/ some bolt-ons, 2" Drop Eibach Suspension, C/C Plates, 17" Steedas 87 LX 306ci Forged w/ bolt-ons, 4.10's, Built T5, Weld Rodlites, BBK Headers, O/R X, Magnaflow Dumps.

02-10-2008, 06:25 PM	#15
96greengt LOL @ your mom Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: N.E. SA Posts: 8,680 Trader Rating: (21)	Bad ignition switch? __________________ Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts, over 300+ RWHP & 320+ TQ

02-10-2008, 06:27 PM	#16
thatdavidkid looks mean, workin' on the fast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Denton Posts: 3,901 Trader Rating: (1)	that would be my next guess... not enough signal to the solonoid __________________ 1991 lx coupe t-5 swap, billit quadrant, upr firewall adjuster, steeda tri-ax, custom jb tool and fab one off subframe connectors, 8.8 w/posi and 4.10's with 5 lug axles, tubular upper control arms, southside lowers, and pbr twin piston front calipers with "snowflake" wheels

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02-10-2008, 10:38 PM	#17
d4rkpri35t '87 LX 'n '95 GT Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Sweetwater Posts: 352 Trader Rating: (0)	what would be a way to test ignition switch i attempted to put a wire to the power and ground on the solenoid and tap em with the clutch engaged and the key turned.. but nothing happened.. just the alarm went off.. __________________ 95 GT 5.0 w/ some bolt-ons, 2" Drop Eibach Suspension, C/C Plates, 17" Steedas 87 LX 306ci Forged w/ bolt-ons, 4.10's, Built T5, Weld Rodlites, BBK Headers, O/R X, Magnaflow Dumps.

02-10-2008, 10:56 PM	#18
96greengt LOL @ your mom Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: N.E. SA Posts: 8,680 Trader Rating: (21)	The switch is on the steering column. Disconnect it and it should be eithet the two yellow wires or the two reds, one has a white stripe if memory serves me correctly without pulling up a schematic. Jump them at the switch and see if the starter engages. But mostly, you'll be looking for a burned connector end. __________________ Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts, over 300+ RWHP & 320+ TQ

03-06-2008, 03:17 PM	#19
d4rkpri35t '87 LX 'n '95 GT Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Sweetwater Posts: 352 Trader Rating: (0)	car was working for a while then it started with it's bullshit clicking again. it's not coil, starter, solenoid, etc. but the recommended ca for the 95 gt is 500. if it's not a high enough ca could that cause the problem? __________________ 95 GT 5.0 w/ some bolt-ons, 2" Drop Eibach Suspension, C/C Plates, 17" Steedas 87 LX 306ci Forged w/ bolt-ons, 4.10's, Built T5, Weld Rodlites, BBK Headers, O/R X, Magnaflow Dumps.

03-06-2008, 03:46 PM	#20
txlen Jus Workin Away !!! Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 1,795 Trader Rating: (2)	Whoa...wait a minute....you have an aftermarket alarm on it correct??? betcha the starter kill on it is taking a dump..