[Agent Jones]

Originally Posted by TonyGT

anything u do, build the bottom end first!!! 2v's dont like to punished for a long time....just my .02 cents

its a three value. i say just get a blower and call it a day. listen to the beautiful whine all day

[Ryan_65Stallion]

Originally Posted by 96greengt

Stroking the 4.6 does shit for it really. I'd build a solid block with forged internals so you know it can handle the future power and go from there.

Why does everyone just blow right past the bottom end and build the top?
First thing you should ever do to an engine if your planning to make more power is to build the bottom end.
And your drivetrain.

[lazer96gt]

Originally Posted by Ryan_65Stallion

Why does everyone just blow right past the bottom end and build the top?
First thing you should ever do to an engine if your planning to make more power is to build the bottom end.
And your drivetrain.

+++^

Originally Posted by 96greengt

Stroking the 4.6 does shit for it really. I'd build a solid block with forged internals so you know it can handle the future power and go from there.

+++^

full eagle (forged of course) rotating assembly, patriot stg2 heads with stg3 VT cams if you're going drag. ARP bolts through out. I wouldn't stroke the motor if you're gonna blow it later, because you'll be increasing the rotating mass and once the blower is on, it MAY not rap up as quick as the stock stroke. the bore I'd just stay at .030. just enough to clean it up. don't skimp on the bearings and oil pump either. deep sump pan and a windage tray. it's gonna cost money, but the blower setup would cost almost as much as the built engine. if you are going to put a blower on later, you might just want to P&P the heads and go with stg 2 N/A cams. I'll be building up my 4v once my KB puts it too sleep. I'd REALLY like to see what a no spray built 2v can do.

[ChrisGT2000]

You can build it but if its your daily driver just blow it for now than when its time to pull the engine out than build it up and u will already have a blower after engine is done.

[AdRock]

Originally Posted by Agent Jones

its a three value. i say just get a blower and call it a day. listen to the beautiful whine all day

He's asking about this info for his 2000 GT, that's a 2v.

[AdRock]

Originally Posted by Ryan_65Stallion

Why does everyone just blow right past the bottom end and build the top?
First thing you should ever do to an engine if your planning to make more power is to build the bottom end.

That's what 96greenGT said?

[Stang6uy]

Originally Posted by Barricade

str8 drag car

well since you got that kind of cash just roll up to one of the sponsers and let them have at it.....sure PSI, Lethal, and Murrillo will lead you in the right direction......

[96greengt]

Originally Posted by lazer96gt

+++^



+++^

full eagle (forged of course) rotating assembly, patriot stg2 heads with stg3 VT cams if you're going drag. ARP bolts through out. I wouldn't stroke the motor if you're gonna blow it later, because you'll be increasing the rotating mass and once the blower is on, it MAY not rap up as quick as the stock stroke. the bore I'd just stay at .030. just enough to clean it up. don't skimp on the bearings and oil pump either. deep sump pan and a windage tray. it's gonna cost money, but the blower setup would cost almost as much as the built engine. if you are going to put a blower on later, you might just want to P&P the heads and go with stg 2 N/A cams. I'll be building up my 4v once my KB puts it too sleep. I'd REALLY like to see what a no spray built 2v can do.

.20 over is a little cheaper by parts. .30 over is less common of a bore for the 4.6 and not recommended by many builders. .30 over is pushing it a little for the already small bore of the 4.6.

[lazer96gt]

Originally Posted by 96greengt

.20 over is a little cheaper by parts. .30 over is less common of a bore for the 4.6 and not recommended by many builders. .30 over is pushing it a little for the already small bore of the 4.6.

yeah. I guess I have that small block chevy mentality

[96greengt]

The max bore on the 4.6 would be a .40 over, doing a .20 over (if in the event you had piston/ring failure) you still have some cushion to bore a bit more. If bored at .30 + you may have a scrap block.

[95 GTS]

get ahold of boss 330, have him build you a 4V,

end of story. It will take a while to get ahold of him but be well worth it.

if you want to spend alot of money to run 11.9 at 112 on slicks to say you did it n/a, GL
you can get serious and build a crazy 4v.
if this is a drag car, I would go stalled auto for fun and consistant times.

Or put an ls1 in it and be very very fast as a dedicated drag car. ls1 is capable of 470+ rwhp N/A on stock internals and reliable. You are going to be hard pressed to do that in a modular motor.

how fast do you really want to go?

[lazer96gt]

Or put an ls1 in it and be very very fast as a dedicated drag car. ls1 is capable of 470+ rwhp N/A on stock internals and reliable. You are going to be hard pressed to do that in a modular motor.


^
I like this guys thinking.

[CobraCommander]

Heads, Cams, and Forged Internals with a nice 150 to 200 Shot of juice.

[96greengt]

Originally Posted by CobraCommander

Heads, Cams, and Forged Internals with a nice 150 to 200 Shot of juice.

Tight rings for that much juice.

[stangfreak]

look at my mod list. any questions, pm me..
on the same path, done a lot to stay n/a and be respectable.
either way make up your mind BEFORE you build and stick with it. i.e. you don't want a stroker motor, then try and boost it. if you want n/a stroke it. (mmr.com) but forge the bottom end (stock bottom end only good for @400hp) if you go blown or s/c then you want to still forge per hp gains, but you want to build the motor for 7.8-8.5 :1 compression so you can put more air into the motor and maximize your boost. if not your just going listen to the sound of popcorn from the blow off valve. (can you say honda)