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#1 |
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GT-40 302 block or rebuild?
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Bad ignition switch?
would a bad ignition switch mad the points on my distributor short?
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#2 |
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Registered User
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have you checked your battery cables for corrosion.
the negative may be completely corroded at one point. although the terminal aren't corroded, the cable may still be on the other end or in the middle.
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MIKE '86 GT:high 12's Sold '01 GT:low 11's for sale |
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#4 |
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True Playa Status
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#5 | |
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GT-40 302 block or rebuild?
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Quote:
so today when I got home, I put the new solenoid and points in the dizzy. my dad checked the points and said they were shorting, Idk why, isn't there supposed to be sparks on them when they contact each other? or no? tried to start it and it turned over but for some reason the battery was yet again getting drain. and I just installed the new starter yesterday. I did notice the neg. wire from the battery smoking on the post, looked at the wire and it looked corroded. so I cut it back and put it back on and it didn't smoke but wouldn't fire and the battery was getting drained. so idk. I'm lost and have no idea what else it could be. |
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#7 |
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Evil Angel
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As I mentioned in your other post, make sure you have good grounds. I had this issue (at least the smoking terminals) with that old truck, added an extra 2ga. ground from the block to the frame, and problem solved.
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![]() 2002 Mustang GT, 271hp/306tq on 87 CMR Tune, Roush short throw rally style shifter, King Cobra Clutch, Roush CAI, C&L Plenum, BBK/Roush 75mm T/B, Kooks L/Ts w/catted X, Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-back, Eibach Pro-kit Springs, Energy Suspension bushings, KYB AGX's, Hotchkis C/C plates, UPR ProStreet rear control arms, Brembo Drilled/Hawk pads, BFG's, Dual Halo Projector 8k HIDs, Kenwood: KDC-X790, KAC-9102D, KAC-8402; Infinity: 6810CS, 6812CF; Orion: P series subs all powered by Optima
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#8 | |
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Insert title here
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I am assuming you pulled out the GM HEI then and swapped back in the original.
To answer your question, no the switch will not kill the points.
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Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned. |
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#9 | |
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GT-40 302 block or rebuild?
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Quote:
and we got her running. the damn neutral safety switch was stripped and rubbing on the bellhousing cause it to short. whoever had the car before me must have hit it when they dropped the 289 in there and just taped it. |
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#10 |
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WOW Waaaayy too many beans last night!!!!
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Well the pionts will have pits it is a normal wear factor on points everytime the open and close a spark is created there by erroding the material hence the reason they have to be replaced. Burning is usually caused by improper gapping of the points upon install. If my memory serves me .015-.018 is about what you want them to be set at.
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04 Oxford White MACH1,5 SPD with IUP,K&NAircharger Borla Stingers,SLP Catted X pipe,Tri-ax,SCT Flashtune,Drilled/Slotted rotors all 4 corners 281 rwhp on Mustang Dyno,306 rwhp on a Dynojet 94 Black Lightning Daily Driver&85GT FACH1 Project under construction
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