[Aerocoupe]

I have the MM in my Coupe and the Griggs in my T-Bird. They are two different designs but both are awesome. The MM is just about the same weight as the stock K-Member and does move the control arms forward 3/4". If you order the standard offset control arms then you have no sheet metal problems as it only moves the front wheels forward 3/4". If you order the offset control arms then it will move your wheels forward a total of 1-1/2". Neither unit will work with the stock springs and struts as the do not have the upper perch for the standard coil springs. So you have to convert over to a coil over type spring and strut setup. MM has good ones and so does Griggs. Both of my cars have the Griggs coil overs all the way around with the Koni SA's and DA's. The Griggs K-member is more meant for racing but it will stand up to mild street driving. My Coupe sees the street way more than the T-Bird so I used the MM in it.

Now for the bad news...stock controls cannot be used with the MM or the Griggs units. Straight from the MM K-member installation instructions:

Proper installation of the MM K-member will require the use of the following parts:
• Tubular front control arms.
• Caster/Camber plates.
• Front Coil-Over conversion kit.
• MMST-6 Spherical Rack Bushings.
• Adjustable Tie-Rod ends.
• MM Relocation Kit for the front Swaybar, when using the MM forward-offset control arms.

We recommend the following parts to accompany the installation of a K-member:
• Solid steering shaft
• Shorter aftermarket urethane swaybar end links
• MM Front Swaybar Bracket reinforcements (1979-1993 cars)
• MM Strut Tower Brace
• High performance struts to match your spring rate

Long story short they both require the same gear to install but the Griggs is more of a racing setup. If you have any other questions just shout as I just finished up the Coupe a couple of weeks ago.

Darren

[Bigdrumma22]

Originally Posted by Aerocoupe

I have the MM in my Coupe and the Griggs in my T-Bird. They are two different designs but both are awesome. The MM is just about the same weight as the stock K-Member and does move the control arms forward 3/4". If you order the standard offset control arms then you have no sheet metal problems as it only moves the front wheels forward 3/4". If you order the offset control arms then it will move your wheels forward a total of 1-1/2". Neither unit will work with the stock springs and struts as the do not have the upper perch for the standard coil springs. So you have to convert over to a coil over type spring and strut setup. MM has good ones and so does Griggs. Both of my cars have the Griggs coil overs all the way around with the Koni SA's and DA's. The Griggs K-member is more meant for racing but it will stand up to mild street driving. My Coupe sees the street way more than the T-Bird so I used the MM in it.

Now for the bad news...stock controls cannot be used with the MM or the Griggs units. Straight from the MM K-member installation instructions:

Proper installation of the MM K-member will require the use of the following parts:
• Tubular front control arms.
• Caster/Camber plates.
• Front Coil-Over conversion kit.
• MMST-6 Spherical Rack Bushings.
• Adjustable Tie-Rod ends.
• MM Relocation Kit for the front Swaybar, when using the MM forward-offset control arms.

We recommend the following parts to accompany the installation of a K-member:
• Solid steering shaft
• Shorter aftermarket urethane swaybar end links
• MM Front Swaybar Bracket reinforcements (1979-1993 cars)
• MM Strut Tower Brace
• High performance struts to match your spring rate

Long story short they both require the same gear to install but the Griggs is more of a racing setup. If you have any other questions just shout as I just finished up the Coupe a couple of weeks ago.

Darren

Nice post! Very informative!!

[highspeed]

Originally Posted by Aerocoupe

I have the MM in my Coupe and the Griggs in my T-Bird. They are two different designs but both are awesome. The MM is just about the same weight as the stock K-Member and does move the control arms forward 3/4". If you order the standard offset control arms then you have no sheet metal problems as it only moves the front wheels forward 3/4". If you order the offset control arms then it will move your wheels forward a total of 1-1/2". Neither unit will work with the stock springs and struts as the do not have the upper perch for the standard coil springs. So you have to convert over to a coil over type spring and strut setup. MM has good ones and so does Griggs. Both of my cars have the Griggs coil overs all the way around with the Koni SA's and DA's. The Griggs K-member is more meant for racing but it will stand up to mild street driving. My Coupe sees the street way more than the T-Bird so I used the MM in it.

Now for the bad news...stock controls cannot be used with the MM or the Griggs units. Straight from the MM K-member installation instructions:

Proper installation of the MM K-member will require the use of the following parts:
• Tubular front control arms.
• Caster/Camber plates.
• Front Coil-Over conversion kit.
• MMST-6 Spherical Rack Bushings.
• Adjustable Tie-Rod ends.
• MM Relocation Kit for the front Swaybar, when using the MM forward-offset control arms.

We recommend the following parts to accompany the installation of a K-member:
• Solid steering shaft
• Shorter aftermarket urethane swaybar end links
• MM Front Swaybar Bracket reinforcements (1979-1993 cars)
• MM Strut Tower Brace
• High performance struts to match your spring rate

Long story short they both require the same gear to install but the Griggs is more of a racing setup. If you have any other questions just shout as I just finished up the Coupe a couple of weeks ago.

Darren

Thanks for all the info... How do you like the coilover setup you are currently using?

[highspeed]

Originally Posted by Bigdrumma22

Nice post! Very informative!!

+1...

[Aerocoupe]

Easy to install, easy to adjust, and best of all I can pick the ride height. Makes leveling a Fox body super easy as they were typically not very accurate when they came from the assembly line. The ride quality is also very different as the front struts are the Koni double adjustable and the rear shock are the Koni single adjustible. Bruce Griggs set up the valving on the shocks for the intended driving of the car which is mostly street and some track duty. Unfortunately I cannot comment on the ride with just the coil overs as my Coupe is a full MM suspension car now. What I mean by this is it has the coil overs, torque arm, panhard bard, and LCA's in the rear and the front has the K-member, tubular control arms, coil overs, and CC plates. I have also switched the car over to the SN95 brakes and ABS so it is a completely different car than a traditional Fox body. It also has Global West subframe connectors and Griggs upper subframes so it is pretty stiff chassis wise.

Darren

[highspeed]

Originally Posted by Aerocoupe

Easy to install, easy to adjust, and best of all I can pick the ride height. Makes leveling a Fox body super easy as they were typically not very accurate when they came from the assembly line. The ride quality is also very different as the front struts are the Koni double adjustable and the rear shock are the Koni single adjustible. Bruce Griggs set up the valving on the shocks for the intended driving of the car which is mostly street and some track duty. Unfortunately I cannot comment on the ride with just the coil overs as my Coupe is a full MM suspension car now. What I mean by this is it has the coil overs, torque arm, panhard bard, and LCA's in the rear and the front has the K-member, tubular control arms, coil overs, and CC plates. I have also switched the car over to the SN95 brakes and ABS so it is a completely different car than a traditional Fox body. It also has Global West subframe connectors and Griggs upper subframes so it is pretty stiff chassis wise.

Darren

Holy Crap... You really went all out with the suspension on that fox!!!

What are the Griggs upper subframes and where do they connect?

[Aerocoupe]

Eh, its has only been over 7 years. Ha ha ha!!! I had the K-member for over a year before I put it in and had the panhard bar for over a year before that made it into the car. I just buy parts when I can get the scratch up and then try and find the time to get them installed.

The Griggs uppers are here:

Griggs Racing Products

The kit is a basically an upper subframe that ties into the rear bulkhead, the rear of the front subframe, and ties the lower subframe and upper subframe together. The car is beyond stiff with these two installed. I can jack up the car on any corner and basically pick that tire off the ground, the one behind it, and the one across from it and still open and close the doors. Basically a standard roll cage would only make the car a tad stiffer and do what it is supposed to do and make it safe.

Darren

[95 GTS]

I would suggest the max motorsports

OR and AJE K member with mounts for a small block chevy with an LSX swap at the same time. Fast, lightweight, far better handling.

an ls1 would make 300+ at the wheels completely stock in a mustang and with the k member and aluminum motor you will drop 200 pounds off the front of the car. Thats what I am talking about!

[95 GTS]

If you want flat out handling, a griggs SLA suspension is the way to fix what ails the mustang

[ANRmotorsports]

96geengt has had the k member for a little over 4 months with no issues what so ever, he hammers the engine daily and from what he says is the 3 design. AJE had issues from the first and second designs, but have resolved the issues to date. He still uses the stock lower control arms used with their spring perches for the springs to mount. He drilled holes for the mounts and has had zero problems.

[highspeed]

Originally Posted by ANRmotorsports

96geengt has had the k member for a little over 4 months with no issues what so ever, he hammers the engine daily and from what he says is the 3 design. AJE had issues from the first and second designs, but have resolved the issues to date. He still uses the stock lower control arms used with their spring perches for the springs to mount. He drilled holes for the mounts and has had zero problems.

Awesome... Thats what I was wondering... I heard there were some issues with the earlier AJE K members and they would often break welds under street applications after a year or so. I wasn't sure if those problems still existed with the AJE units.

Thanks for all the info ANRmotorsports...

[96greengt]

I like it, it does make a difference.

[highspeed]

Originally Posted by 96greengt

I like it, it does make a difference.

SWEEEEEET!!! So it seems to handle corners and track the road better?

[96greengt]

I have no track time, but it does handle better. I had to remove the original strut tower brace for my JLT, but I put the k member shortly after and it felt like it stiffened it up more. Not to mention my alignment is the best it has ever been.