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#1 |
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Registered User
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brake upgrade
Hey guys, I was told by the dealership, that my rear brake rotors and pads are worn causing it to make a slight steel on steel grinding noise when the vehicle starts to roll in reverse only. I haven't checked them out yet since it is to dark and raining outside. I am also calling BS on the dealership. So my question is this, I want to upgrade the brake system, depending on price.
Is there an upgrade kit that does all four corners? Where is a good place/price to purchase. What should I avoid/look for & what is just over priced? I like the appearance of the drilled/slotted rotors but not necessary. Thanks.
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2001 True Blue GT 5 speed Little of this and that. Luv'n the tattoos above the hump |
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#2 |
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"The Hitman"
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yes
yes bear unless your racing no i got them all i hope i was help... p.s. is this for the 01?
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Racing in a honda is a lot like the Special Olympics Even if you win, you're still retarded |
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#3 |
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Dude....you got beat by a girl!
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Did you see my husband's thread on rotors? In the pics section page 2 titled "new pics".
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2006 Premium Black on Black GT Intercooled ProCharger D1SC Full Kooks exhaust JBA Axleback SCT tuned by Texas Hot Rods BLACK BITCH II
Last edited by Charged '06 GT; 02-24-2004 at 11:46 PM. |
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#4 |
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Killing is my Business...And Business is Good!
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The scraping your hearing in the rear is prolly the wear shims that squeel once the pads get worn down and let you know the pads need replacing. Really on those brakes all you need is better pads such as performance friction or hawks and that will make a difference.
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![]() 1988 Mustang LX |
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#5 |
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PC Load Letter?
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might look at www.discbrakesrus.com
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4VGT | 317.6 RWHP | 312.3 RWTQ | Dyno Sheet | 99darkgreenGT.com ![]() view my web design/commerce sites | BirdDogBowling | BowlingBallAuctions |
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#6 | |
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Swimming in a sea of anxiety...
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Quote:
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2003 Redfire Roush Stage II #6395 377.5hp/ 372.9tq@ 8psi Small vid of blower ![]() <----Click for mods....
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#8 |
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Killing is my Business...And Business is Good!
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Also Stainlesss Steel braided brake lines and SS caliper bushings with good brake fluid work very well with the better pads.
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![]() 1988 Mustang LX |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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Hey everybody, thanks for the advise...sorry for the late reply, damn office I.T. personel cut our i-net connection so have to access from the house. I was looking at the pads and saw some info on the Hawk brand.
I will check that out when I get more time and a better connection at the office. Thanks to all for the advise. KRS
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2001 True Blue GT 5 speed Little of this and that. Luv'n the tattoos above the hump |
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#10 |
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The token Asian guy
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There's an article in the April 2004 issue of Car and Driver's BOOST magazine that might be of interest. I couldn't find a link to the article. You'll have to buy it at a newstand.
The article explains how you could actually increase your stopping distance when you swap in larger hi-performance brakes. It has to do with the proportioning of the front and rear brakes when you apply pressure to the brake pedal. The amount of brake force applied to the front and rear is based on the factory brakes and weight distribution of the car. The proportioning valves work when you apply normal pressure to the pedal. When you upgrade the brakes, the much stronger front brakes grab first and you feel the car slowing down without even putting normal pressure on the pedal. The article points out that this is a misleading feeling. When you need maximum braking and you put normal pressure to the pedal, the rear brakes never get to their maximum use because the front brakes will lock up before the proportioning valve gets to do its job. You end up stopping the car with mostly the front brakes without much assist from the rear. The end result is longer stopping distances in situations where you need full braking effectivity. Read the article. It explains it in more detail. I probably screwed up on paraphrasing anyway.
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2004 Mustang GT |
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