[Orion]

alright so I had replaced the master cylinder and brake booster on the 79. then was bleeding the brakes. the front are good. no problems good pressure too. but the rear. I had nothing no flow of fluids nothing. I think somthing might be up witht he lines or somthing maybe. they might also just be the bleeder screws. i took them off and they wouldnt let nothing go threw them. so I am going to replace them. what odd though is I didnt have jack for fluid coming out the wholes though.

Anouther question is how far do you put the screw back in to the rear drums? one will seat all the way down to the hex head. the other one goes in and stopped like 1 cm in. Any help is great. thanks guys.

[2k4mk1]

Originally Posted by Orion

alright so I had replaced the master cylinder and brake booster on the 79. then was bleeding the brakes. the front are good. no problems good pressure too. but the rear. I had nothing no flow of fluids nothing. I think somthing might be up witht he lines or somthing maybe. they might also just be the bleeder screws. i took them off and they wouldnt let nothing go threw them. so I am going to replace them. what odd though is I didnt have jack for fluid coming out the wholes though.

Anouther question is how far do you put the screw back in to the rear drums? one will seat all the way down to the hex head. the other one goes in and stopped like 1 cm in. Any help is great. thanks guys.

You can leave the screws out of the drums if ya want the wheels will hold um on.

I had the same no flow issue on my 85. Try checking the block that splits the lines off in the rear. It should be located right on the pumpkin (3rd member) of the rear axle.
It should gravity flow fluid with the bleeder screws out.
You may also want to look at the metering block. Under the master cyl where the lines go it is the little brass colored block with all the brake lines going in and out

[Orion]

Originally Posted by 2k4mk1

You can leave the screws out of the drums if ya want the wheels will hold um on.

I had the same no flow issue on my 85. Try checking the block that splits the lines off in the rear. It should be located right on the pumpkin (3rd member) of the rear axle.
It should gravity flow fluid with the bleeder screws out.
You may also want to look at the metering block. Under the master cyl where the lines go it is the little brass colored block with all the brake lines going in and out

Ok will have to check those blocks out.

I dont have a clue what your talking about with leaving the screw out of the drums as the wheels hold um on? If the car has now bleeder screws in and the lines are fixed wont fluid comeout of the whole for the screws?

[Aerocoupe]

My bet is on the rubber line between the hard line and the splitter on the rear end. This will swell over the years and I have seen them swell completely shut. Cheap fix at the parts store. You will be money ahead to buy the slave cylinders for the rear drums as well. I think they are like $10 each. Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before you installed it?

Can you be more specific as to where these hex head screws are located? What part are they bolting to what?

Darren

[2k4mk1]

Originally Posted by Orion

Ok will have to check those blocks out.

I dont have a clue what your talking about with leaving the screw out of the drums as the wheels hold um on? If the car has now bleeder screws in and the lines are fixed wont fluid comeout of the whole for the screws?

Are you refering to the bleeder screws? I havent seen a 70's brakes in so long I assumed you were referring to screws holding the drums to the axle's ( used on some vechiles) If you mean the bleeders I retract what I said.

If they (the bleeder screws) wont go in to the wheel cyls I would suggest replacing them as they are fairly cheap.

Also As aerocoupe said the rubber line is a good suspect which is what I was referring to as the block since the rubber line is attached to it.

[Orion]

Originally Posted by Aerocoupe

My bet is on the rubber line between the hard line and the splitter on the rear end. This will swell over the years and I have seen them swell completely shut. Cheap fix at the parts store. You will be money ahead to buy the slave cylinders for the rear drums as well. I think they are like $10 each. Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before you installed it?

Can you be more specific as to where these hex head screws are located? What part are they bolting to what?

Darren

yeah I blead the master cylinder. the front brakes are all good to go. but the rear have nothing. I wonder how hard it is to find the rear lines and all for a 87+ system. I was told they are better as they run the lines under the car instead of threw the car.

I was talking about the hex on the bleeder screw. the little heard you use to tighten and loosen the screw.

[Aerocoupe]

The splitter is attached to that line isn't it. Forgot about that as both my cars are no where near stock anymore.

First thing I would do in this situation is disconnect the hard line (the one ran through the car to the back brakes) from the rubber/splitter piece that is on the rear end. See if you get brake fluid at this junction. It should just run out via gravity. If you have it here then continue to chase the problem by loosening each fitting downstream of the rubber/splitter until you find the problem. You may not be able to get the hard line separated from the splitter as this connection always seems to rust up on these cars. Use some kind of rust eater like Liquid Wrench and let it sit overnight if you can.

Darren

[Orion]

Originally Posted by 2k4mk1

Are you refering to the bleeder screws? I havent seen a 70's brakes in so long I assumed you were referring to screws holding the drums to the axle's ( used on some vechiles) If you mean the bleeders I retract what I said.

If they (the bleeder screws) wont go in to the wheel cyls I would suggest replacing them as they are fairly cheap.

Also As aerocoupe said the rubber line is a good suspect which is what I was referring to as the block since the rubber line is attached to it.

I was talking about the screw its self. The bleeder screw sits right above the line both screw right into the back side of the drum. I will try to take some pics when I can. on tyhe driver side the bleeder screw will sseat all the way down to the head of the screw. but the passenger side will only go in maybe a centimeter. not very far.

[Orion]

Originally Posted by Aerocoupe

The splitter is attached to that line isn't it. Forgot about that as both my cars are no where near stock anymore.

First thing I would do in this situation is disconnect the hard line (the one ran through the car to the back brakes) from the rubber/splitter piece that is on the rear end. See if you get brake fluid at this junction. It should just run out via gravity. If you have it here then continue to chase the problem by loosening each fitting downstream of the rubber/splitter until you find the problem. You may not be able to get the hard line separated from the splitter as this connection always seems to rust up on these cars. Use some kind of rust eater like Liquid Wrench and let it sit overnight if you can.

Darren

yeah the brake lines did have some nasty rust on them as did the old master and brake booster. but yeah I will just start chasing lines.

[Aerocoupe]

These are the bleeder screws on the slave cylinders on the backing plate of the drum setup. Just get new slave cylinders and be done with it. Easy to remove and install and with them being new you know they will work correctly once you find the fluid problem.

Go here:

https://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_u...rInfoPages.htm

Darren

[Orion]

Originally Posted by Aerocoupe

These are the bleeder screws on the slave cylinders on the backing plate of the drum setup. Just get new slave cylinders and be done with it. Easy to remove and install and with them being new you know they will work correctly once you find the fluid problem.

Go here:

https://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_u...rInfoPages.htm

Darren

sweet. do you know if they come with bleeder screws in them too. or do I need to by those too?

[2k4mk1]

Originally Posted by Orion

sweet. do you know if they come with bleeder screws in them too. or do I need to by those too?

They will have new bleeders in them.
Definetly worth the $$ for new ones

[Orion]

sweet just found parts # so I can go by the parts stores and see what I can get. hopefully they have them otehr wise if I have to order them then the car will have to wait untill I come back from leave. they do come witht he screws too thanks guys. Also i need to tighten up my ebrake too. i can pull that things almost all the way to the roof haha

[2k4mk1]

Originally Posted by Orion

sweet just found parts # so I can go by the parts stores and see what I can get. hopefully they have them otehr wise if I have to order them then the car will have to wait untill I come back from leave. they do come witht he screws too thanks guys. Also i need to tighten up my ebrake too. i can pull that things almost all the way to the roof haha

Your E brake should get better if your replacing the shoes and get them adjusted properly when you put it back together.

[Aerocoupe]

2k4mk1,

Do you think he should get spring kit for the rear brakes as well? Sorry for the crappy terminology but it is a kit that has all the hardware to install the shoes like primary and secondary springs etc.?

Don't forget to put a little antiseize on the backing plates where the brake shoe backings come into contact with the backing plates. Easy to see as there should be three raised dimples where this need to be applied. Keep the squeeking down and less friction so they work better. Good luck and hope you find the problem.

Darren

[Orion]

yeah. fun fun. lots more work and fun instored for me. man there is alot of rust on parts. the exhaust on the car looks like somthing that came off the titanic. the body is good though so I guess thats all that matters. the rest of the car needs some serious clean up though.

Its funny the girl freind wont even go near the car she hates it. I just laugh at her.

[2k4mk1]

Originally Posted by Aerocoupe

2k4mk1,

Do you think he should get spring kit for the rear brakes as well? Sorry for the crappy terminology but it is a kit that has all the hardware to install the shoes like primary and secondary springs etc.?

Don't forget to put a little antiseize on the backing plates where the brake shoe backings come into contact with the backing plates. Easy to see as there should be three raised dimples where this need to be applied. Keep the squeeking down and less friction so they work better. Good luck and hope you find the problem.

Darren

I would they are cheap and it is good insurance. I beleive a good parts man wold understand the term "brake spring kit"
Yup a little dab of grease goes along way to stop the squeaking.

[Aerocoupe]

My girl loves my car as long as she does not have to ride too far in it. The coil overs and Koni DA's are a bit rough for her taste...think I may firm the ride up a bit more.

Darren

[Orion]

well she inst much a fan for the fox years. GF like the new age cars. she goes for the looks. lokks are good for me but i like the performance more. you cant get past that light body these foxes have. That and there is so much stuff out there for them you can buold one mean custom fox