car problem....

voodookills31 · 05-18-2008, 10:03 AM

last night,while i was driving to fudds, i noticed my lights in the 92 start to get dim.
then a few minutes later everything electrical went off....
somehow(with my electric fuel pump that was off) i still made it to fudds.....
i looked under the hood and notice my ground terminal was loose so i tightened it and sure enough my car had power agoan....but when i went to start it, it cranked once and then startd clicking like when the battery has a ground or is dead. the only known problem i know of on this car is the starter was going out.its a mini starter. we tried to push start it and it turned on,back fired and turned off. and it didnt want to turn on again. the recent changes to the car was replace the underdrive pulleys,put in an electric fan, and msd distributor.
any and all help is appreciated.

thatdavidkid · 05-18-2008, 10:07 AM

sounds like an alternator issue..

voodookills31 · 05-18-2008, 10:09 AM

if the car was on the alt should have been working right?

2k4mk1 · 05-18-2008, 10:14 AM

Sounds like you need to charge the battery. A loose goround let it run the bat down and the alt could not recharge it due to loose connection. As for the push start well no batt means no elect to run the fuel pump etc. which means no start. the newer fi cars need a good bat to run not like the old carb cars where if you could get it rolling it would usually run.

Try chargeing the batt and check all the connections to be sure they are tight.

thatdavidkid · 05-18-2008, 10:20 AM

my only issue with that, is the alt should have kept it running.. however, charging the battery may do the trick... obviously try that first, then test the alt.

voodookills31 · 05-18-2008, 10:20 AM

my car is carb'd and after we tightened the ground my fuel pump was on...its loud.
but yeah...im gonna charge up the batt. how do i test my alt. to see if its good or bad?

Ryan_65Stallion · 05-18-2008, 10:27 AM

take it to a parts house

RichardM · 05-18-2008, 01:21 PM

Use a cheap voltmeter available for like $4 at Harbor Freight. With the engine off, the voltage at the battery should measure some where around 12V DC. Since the cheap meters are not especially accurate don't worry too much about the exact reading. Start the engine and re-measure the voltage. It should now be around 13.7VDC.

Also, check the ground connection at both ends and on the alternator although I don't remember if Ford uses a separate ground wire for the alternator like my SAAB or it Ford just grounds through the mounting bolts.

87fox2e · 05-18-2008, 01:37 PM

i work at oreillys on pat booker rd. bring it by sometime i can check your alternator for you. it does sound like a drained or bad battery though.

05-18-2008, 10:03 AM	#1
voodookills31 5.0 stang-o Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: san antonio Posts: 148 Trader Rating: (1)	car problem.... last night,while i was driving to fudds, i noticed my lights in the 92 start to get dim. then a few minutes later everything electrical went off.... somehow(with my electric fuel pump that was off) i still made it to fudds..... i looked under the hood and notice my ground terminal was loose so i tightened it and sure enough my car had power agoan....but when i went to start it, it cranked once and then startd clicking like when the battery has a ground or is dead. the only known problem i know of on this car is the starter was going out.its a mini starter. we tried to push start it and it turned on,back fired and turned off. and it didnt want to turn on again. the recent changes to the car was replace the underdrive pulleys,put in an electric fan, and msd distributor. any and all help is appreciated. __________________ $C:\Documents and Settings\pablo.sierra\Desktop\8792.JPG$ 87 Mustang GT Bone Stock! 92 Mustang GT: 6 POINT ROLLCAGE 306 TRICKFLOW PORTED HEADS VICTOR JR INTAKE PORTED STAGE 2 TRICKFLOW CAM 31 SPLINE AXLES AND 410 GEARS 5 SPEED TREMEC AND A STAGE 2 COBRA CLUTCH

05-18-2008, 10:07 AM	#2
thatdavidkid looks mean, workin' on the fast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Denton Posts: 3,815 Trader Rating: (0)	sounds like an alternator issue.. __________________ t-5 swap, billit quadrant, upr firewall adjuster, steeda tri-ax, custom jb tool and fab one off subframe connectors, 8.8 w/posi and 4.10's with 5 lug axles, tubular upper control arms, southside lowers, and pbr twin piston front calipers with "snowflake" wheels

05-18-2008, 10:09 AM	#3
voodookills31 5.0 stang-o Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: san antonio Posts: 148 Trader Rating: (1)	if the car was on the alt should have been working right? __________________ $C:\Documents and Settings\pablo.sierra\Desktop\8792.JPG$ 87 Mustang GT Bone Stock! 92 Mustang GT: 6 POINT ROLLCAGE 306 TRICKFLOW PORTED HEADS VICTOR JR INTAKE PORTED STAGE 2 TRICKFLOW CAM 31 SPLINE AXLES AND 410 GEARS 5 SPEED TREMEC AND A STAGE 2 COBRA CLUTCH

05-18-2008, 10:14 AM	#4
2k4mk1 My name is ED,My mom calls me special,I dont know why? Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: SanAntonio Posts: 6,230 Trader Rating: (2)	Sounds like you need to charge the battery. A loose goround let it run the bat down and the alt could not recharge it due to loose connection. As for the push start well no batt means no elect to run the fuel pump etc. which means no start. the newer fi cars need a good bat to run not like the old carb cars where if you could get it rolling it would usually run. Try chargeing the batt and check all the connections to be sure they are tight. __________________ 04 Oxford White MACH1,5 SPD with IUP,K&NAircharger Borla Stingers,SLP Catted X pipe,Tri-ax,SCT Flashtune,Max Mtr Spt 4 bolt adj C/C plates, Drilled/Slotted rotors all 4 corners 281 rwhp on Mustang Dyno,306 rwhp on a Dynojet 94 Black Lightning Daily Driver&85GT FACH1 Project under construction

05-18-2008, 10:20 AM	#5
thatdavidkid looks mean, workin' on the fast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Denton Posts: 3,815 Trader Rating: (0)	my only issue with that, is the alt should have kept it running.. however, charging the battery may do the trick... obviously try that first, then test the alt. __________________ t-5 swap, billit quadrant, upr firewall adjuster, steeda tri-ax, custom jb tool and fab one off subframe connectors, 8.8 w/posi and 4.10's with 5 lug axles, tubular upper control arms, southside lowers, and pbr twin piston front calipers with "snowflake" wheels

05-18-2008, 01:21 PM	#8
RichardM Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Sachse Posts: 20 Trader Rating: (0)	Use a cheap voltmeter available for like $4 at Harbor Freight. With the engine off, the voltage at the battery should measure some where around 12V DC. Since the cheap meters are not especially accurate don't worry too much about the exact reading. Start the engine and re-measure the voltage. It should now be around 13.7VDC. Also, check the ground connection at both ends and on the alternator although I don't remember if Ford uses a separate ground wire for the alternator like my SAAB or it Ford just grounds through the mounting bolts.

05-18-2008, 01:37 PM	#9
87fox2e Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: San Antonio Posts: 65 Trader Rating: (0)	i work at oreillys on pat booker rd. bring it by sometime i can check your alternator for you. it does sound like a drained or bad battery though.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes	Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode	Rate This Thread: