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#1 |
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I don't want a LARGE Farva...
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Help me with 60ft times.
suspension mainly consists of FRPP "C" springs, full length SFCs, maximum motorsport lowers, Steeda HD (boxed FRPP with poly bushing) uppers.
rear shocks are KYB units and struts are stock '89 fox struts. with street tires, i cut a best 60 of 1.99/2.02 on pony rims, side-stepping the clutch at 2K. now i've got 17" BFG DR and 95 cobra rims and havent seen an improvement in my 60'. i clocked a best of 13.22 @ 107.4 at MM last night, and a 13.26 @ 107.81 both with 2.0 60' times. side-stepping about 2,500rpms. any higher than 3200K and they spin. BFGs set between 15psi and 20psi, didnt really notice a difference between pressures. at least, times didnt indicate there was a difference. i know my mph is a 12.7-12.8 range, and all i need to work on is getting my 60 down to 1.7/1.8 to break into the 12s. any input? THanks LSS. |
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#3 |
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Back in the saddle again
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i second that
my 12.5 at 109 came releaseing from 5k on nittos with a 1.76 60 never leave below peak torque or you will get nothing but 1.9s or worse
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2007 Reflex Silver Wolfsburg Jetta - new hotness 1995 Canary Yellow GTS - Sold 12.81@106.2 w/1.80 60' Boltons/E303 + 3100 lbs + M&H 246 HP/ 290 TQ 12.57 @ 109.21 w/1.76 60' Boltons/GT40Ps/XE270 + 3240 lbs + 555Rs 295 HP / 321 TQ |
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#4 |
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I don't want a LARGE Farva...
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so I should rev maybe 4500 to 5K, and keep the gas where it is, but slip out the clutch.. then apply more gas once the clutch is fully engaged?
and no.. i havent really tried that. i got close to slipping the clutch once last night, but broke traction and ended up with a 2.1 |
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#5 |
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Back in the saddle again
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its a quick release but not a drop
you almost get it, but apply gas as it begins enguagement to the point it doesnt bog or fall below peak torque. in otherwords the tach will never see below 4k
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2007 Reflex Silver Wolfsburg Jetta - new hotness 1995 Canary Yellow GTS - Sold 12.81@106.2 w/1.80 60' Boltons/E303 + 3100 lbs + M&H 246 HP/ 290 TQ 12.57 @ 109.21 w/1.76 60' Boltons/GT40Ps/XE270 + 3240 lbs + 555Rs 295 HP / 321 TQ |
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#7 |
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looks mean, workin' on the fast
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i'm so glad there are some ppl out there that know how to drive their cars rather than just either bog and get a 3948759834second 60 ft. or dump the clutch from redline and spin all the way to the 1/8 mile mark.. i agree w/ feathering the clutch.. on a fwd car, you can usually just dump it from high rpm 'cause the stupid things have no torque anyway... but on awd and rwd, you have to play w/ the clutch.. that's why i dont understand why ppl say it's so hard to drive awd on a track.. they just act how you want any car to react.. they grip.. no matter what.. you just have to learn to control the clutch so you dont bog... and in rwd, you control the clutch so you dont spin.. man i've been hangin' out w/ the ricer crowd too long.. their stupidity is getting to me.
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1991 lx coupe t-5 swap, billit quadrant, upr firewall adjuster, steeda tri-ax, custom jb tool and fab one off subframe connectors, 8.8 w/posi and 4.10's with 5 lug axles, tubular upper control arms, southside lowers, and pbr twin piston front calipers with "snowflake" wheels |
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#8 |
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Box Foxes Rule!!!
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C springs are not the best choice for the dragstrip.
What gear do you run? You wouldbe suprised what a set of adjustable uppers will do. You can set your pinion angle correctly with them.
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Never underestimate the unpredictability of stupidity! 78 Zephyr, 82 Granada Wagon, 88 Mustang 2.3T 94 GT Last edited by racer99; 10-10-2006 at 08:49 AM. |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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try dropping your air pressure in your rear tires to 10 to 12 psi that will allow the sidewall to wrinkle and disconnect your front sway bar that will allow the weight to transfer and plant your rear tires better
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#10 |
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I don't want a LARGE Farva...
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My rear gear is 3.90. my trans first is 3.35. its a pretty quick first gear.
I've thought about getting adjustable uppers, will changing the pinion angle really help launches? Things I'll do next time out: remove front sway bar drop pressure to 12psi slip clutch quickly from 4500-5K and keep rpms above 4K the entire time. |
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#11 |
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looks mean, workin' on the fast
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sounds like a plan... as far as the launching.. it'll take time to get it right if you always just sidestepped it... hell, you can try it to an extent if you're getting on the highway from a stop or something.. that's actually where i practiced my launches in my subaru.. just launch as hard as you can w/o spinning...
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1991 lx coupe t-5 swap, billit quadrant, upr firewall adjuster, steeda tri-ax, custom jb tool and fab one off subframe connectors, 8.8 w/posi and 4.10's with 5 lug axles, tubular upper control arms, southside lowers, and pbr twin piston front calipers with "snowflake" wheels |
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#12 |
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Wanna Run?
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I'm going to disagree with the majority, riding the clutch is a good way work on purchasing a new one, first is your car set up for drag racing or is it a street cruzer, and if so have you lower it. 17" rims+lowered car dont make for good 60' times at the track, at your HP/performance you might want to invest in some adjustable shocks/ struts, the adjustable uppers are a good idea aswell.
Good luck
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Team Hype Motorsports Project 408SBF 9.50 Pumpgas It's not all HYPE
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#13 |
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I don't want a LARGE Farva...
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yes, with the C springs and 17" rims, my car is defintaely lowered and set up for cutting corners, not weight transfer to the back... but i'd like to get a better 60ft if possible, without changing to a drag launch spring kit... maybe thats not possible though.
as far as my clutch goes, i hear ya on the wearing it out part. Its a Mcleod kevlar disk with a Motorsport HD pressure plate. enough bite to handle my car when it was turbocharged, and not exactly cheap to replace. we'll see. i may just spray a 100 shot and call it a day, regardless of 60ft. times. |
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#14 | |
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technology > displacement
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Quote:
c-springs aren't horrible for drag, but definitely not the best. But taking off the sway will help for sure.
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My Garage |
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#15 | |
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Wanna Run?
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Quote:
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Team Hype Motorsports Project 408SBF 9.50 Pumpgas It's not all HYPE
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#16 |
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Registered User
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dont go wasting 200$$ on uppers..adjustable uppers are for cars that are serious about racing <10 sec..
lower the tire pressure to 10 or 12 psi you really cant expect a hard launch out of a 17" tire... so what i used to do is and got a 1.8 is hold the rpm at 4500 then dump the clutch and the motor will bog..period.after you get the car rolling then drop the pedal to the floor..then when you hit second,hit the juice..btw 100 shot is good for 11.7 or so.dont forget to move your timing 10* base w/o the plug in. i go to the track (sar) weekly on weds night... if that dont work, i know it will get some m/t et radials. then the problem will go away..that is a steep 1st so if you spray out of the hole you better have your shit together for 2nd cause itll come damn fast.but if your definitely gonna spend money then buy a set of 28 by 9 et streets(radial or bias ply) and enjoy your 1.7 60'ers. the only reason i suggest 28 is rpm on the big end you cant turn above 6250 and stock lower ends dont like 6k without a set of arp rod bolts..the subaru kid doesnt really have to worry bout traction to much.. those little bastards hook hard. stephen |
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