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Old 12-01-2003, 06:34 PM   #1
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how to replace alternator?

Well, it turns out that my alternator IS faulty, and is undercharging the battery (thanks to those who insisted I check it!). With the engine on the machine was reading 13.91-93 (volts?), whcih the guy said was under the bottom limit of 14. Guess it needs replacing, 2 months after my warranty expired

So, how complicated a job is this? It looks like it is just connected by 4 bolts, some wires, and the belt. I was just going to get a new one from Autozone, any particular brand or model? I'm not a racer or a stereo guy, so I don't think I need a different one than what I have now, unless there are obvious advantages. How do you take off the belt? Any tricks to the replacement? I'm planning on just doing it in the parking lot of autozone so I can get it checked afterwards. Thanks.
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Old 12-01-2003, 06:43 PM   #2
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Disconnect negative terminal of battery. Use a socket wrench without any sockets. Use it on the belt tensioner. There should be a square hole in it to jam the socket wrench. Remove belt. Disconnect any alternator wiring. Unbolt alternator. Have autozone swap pulley if necessary.
Am I leaving anything out?:party3:
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Old 12-01-2003, 07:10 PM   #3
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Jason...I have a stock 99 alternator. It was on the car for about 10K miles. Had to go with a Cobra alt for the Bullitt intake. $75 if you want it and Todd can help you install. He's done enough of them.
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Old 12-01-2003, 07:30 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by scottyboy
Disconnect negative terminal of battery. Use a socket wrench without any sockets. Use it on the belt tensioner. There should be a square hole in it to jam the socket wrench. Remove belt. Disconnect any alternator wiring. Unbolt alternator. Have autozone swap pulley if necessary.
Am I leaving anything out?:party3:


Don't touch the +terminal and any metal part with wrench....


I just did mine on the fox this weekend, seems you got the same steps I followed.
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Old 12-01-2003, 08:03 PM   #5
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that looks just fine to me.... dont let them BS you


and changing your alternator is a POC if you choose to do that
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Old 12-01-2003, 09:50 PM   #6
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jason, if you plan on getting UD pullies, i would go ahead and get a better alternator at the same time, since its only a few bucks more. i did.

it was a real easy job on the fox, but of course.. fox and 99+ are different. good luck to ya:jeff:
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Old 12-01-2003, 09:53 PM   #7
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i was going to say the same thing as redrum... you can go 50% with a better alt. perhaps, i know some v6 guys can, like talleywhacker.
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Old 12-01-2003, 11:48 PM   #8
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Well, I did a little reading (ALWAYS a dangerous thing!) and it seems that the idle voltage should be 14 +/- 0.5 volts, so I should be good to go. So long as it is above 12, I am feeding the battery, not draining it. So the new alternator is on hold for the moment. My GFs brother apparently runs an alternator business, so I may swing by his shop later in the week to get it checked out. If I do need to replace it, I suppose I'll put in a 130amp system so I can run underdrives. I'll call it an early x-mas present....
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Old 12-02-2003, 04:57 AM   #9
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see... never listen to autozone... they are full of shit


oreileys will do you right.... but autozone is as big of scammers as brake check and quick align
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Old 12-02-2003, 08:35 PM   #10
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i maybe wrong but i thought all 2nd gen sn95's (99+) had 130amp alts.
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Old 12-04-2003, 12:20 AM   #11
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94-95 do
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Old 12-04-2003, 09:16 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by 95snoozer
see... never listen to autozone... they are full of shit
ive had similar thoughts about them as well
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Old 12-04-2003, 01:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by 95snoozer
94-95 do
so maybe all sn95's have 130amp alts?
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Old 12-04-2003, 04:49 PM   #14
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Old 12-05-2003, 06:19 PM   #15
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The rule of thumb I always use is 12+ volts is good with your car off and 13.5+ is good with it running.

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