Identify 2 wires

littlebeeper · 05-19-2008, 03:28 PM

little history below but i need to see what these 2 wires are to. they run under with the harness that goes under the battery tray. one is black thick wire like 14-15 guage with like an orange or tan line (kinda faded) and the other is a 18 guage yellow wire that changes to brown after the rubber link thing. hopefull the pick is good enough. my buddy with an 89 GT ain't here for comparison so any suggestions would be welcome. also noting is that my alternator isn't charging

I got my mustang running, its an 88 GT 5-speed that has been sitting for like 8 years (not registered in 8-years). new fuel pump, gas tank, oil, plugs, cap and rotor. had 2 codes 23 and 18. got the TPS sensor adjusted (code 23 )so now i just have the spout sensor short to ground code (code 18) and it runs like crap. i'm changing the TFI module today. so hopefull that will fix that then its on to the clutch not disengaging. thats probably the line in already stretched or/and the stock plastic quadrant is crap (which it is anyway right

)

X2CRAYZIX · 05-19-2008, 04:10 PM

ill look at my 90 Gt and see if i can see what they might be

X2CRAYZIX · 05-19-2008, 04:33 PM

sorry i dont see those on mine

hi ofcr cobra · 05-19-2008, 04:44 PM

I had a charging issue with my 93 and the prob was right where you are describing. There are 2 10-12ga black wires coming from the main alternator plug, they are black with orange/yellow stripes (if i remember right). One of them goes to the battery side of the solinoid and on my car that wire was corroded; i used a new section of 10ga wire and crimped it in past the corrosion... works perfectly now.

Follow the two black wires from the alt and see if one of them comes up short...

On my car the thinner wire was tapped into the same black alt to battery wire so I left it alone. I havent traced it back yet but everything works fine for now. There was a lot of shotty wiring on my car when I bought it so the thin wire MAY have another purpose/destination.

Hope that helps, I can get you pics if you need em.

thatdavidkid · 05-19-2008, 04:50 PM

here's the wiring layout for the charging system.

thatdavidkid · 05-19-2008, 04:53 PM

i see a black/orange 16 guage as a window defrost.... does that work on yours? there is also a black and orange 14 guage wire that is to your voltage regulator... the only yellow i see there is to your brake lights

littlebeeper · 05-19-2008, 05:45 PM

i only get like 3 volts out of the Black wire. I'll check the alternator 1st and see if thats bad and if i get power to that black wire. i see in the wiring diagram from Autozone (wow can't believe they had this on their website ) that the black wire is to the alternator as well.

I don't have rear defronst so i'll see what else that other wire might be. according to the scematics from autozone there is also a yellow wire that connects to the starter relay at the same spot as the black wire. the schematics says "fuse link E brn" at the fuse so i'm guessing it changes to brown as my yellow wire does after the fuse? i just have to check if its yellow with a white stripe. this is the schematics i used fig 39 almost all the way down </title></head>"); newWindow.document.writeln("<body><div align='center'><img " + getWidth("yes") + "src='/images/cds/" + tpe + "/" + sze + "/" + pc + "." + tpe + "'></img></div>"); newWindow.document.writeln("<div align='center'><table><tr><td><FORM

littlebeeper · 05-20-2008, 11:51 AM

well alternator is good so those wires have to be from the alternator. the TFI module tasted good but i bought it back when Autozone had lifetime on them so i went ahead and got a new one. I'll see if this fixes the problem. its just wierd that it tested good and the car runs like shit. won't even rev past 3000 RPM it sputters real bad and smokes a lot as it reaches 3000 and idles pretty bad too

littlebeeper · 05-20-2008, 11:27 PM

thanks for the help guys. large wire was indeed the alternators hot wire and the smaller was the regulator. i got charge out of the black wire when i plugged in the small wire to the starter solenoid hot side. charge lite in cluster shut off. now i need a 3g alternator. I'm barely throwing 12 volts. its just enough to get the idiot light to shut off

thatdavidkid · 05-21-2008, 08:16 AM

i would re-check your wiring before you blow money on an alternator... could just be another wiring goof somewhere... you obviously know your alt. wiring wasn't great... dont dismiss any more wiring problems just yet.

littlebeeper · 05-21-2008, 09:25 AM

very true. i still need to make sure the alternator is throwing more voltage at the alternator itself. those plugs tend to get brittle and break or just make poor connections.
And i still need to see why i'm throwing code 18. or maybe it was cause i was off time pretty bad. i had to move the distributor counter clockwise one tooth just to get back into the cranks timing marks. don't think that fixed the code but the motor revs very well now but idles crappy and still smokes. i never changed the injectors after replacing the gas tank and fuel pump. if the old gas left a 1/4 inch of muck on the bottom of the old tank and froze up the old pump from the inside (still buzzes when plugged to the battery but can't turn) then i'm pretty sure one or more of the injectors is shot. prolly throwing too much fuel, stuck open or the regulator is stuck closed. wow, i still have some work to do huh? LOL
thanks

05-19-2008, 03:28 PM	#1
littlebeeper Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 163 Trader Rating: (1)	Identify 2 wires (fixed!!) little history below but i need to see what these 2 wires are to. they run under with the harness that goes under the battery tray. one is black thick wire like 14-15 guage with like an orange or tan line (kinda faded) and the other is a 18 guage yellow wire that changes to brown after the rubber link thing. hopefull the pick is good enough. my buddy with an 89 GT ain't here for comparison so any suggestions would be welcome. also noting is that my alternator isn't charging I got my mustang running, its an 88 GT 5-speed that has been sitting for like 8 years (not registered in 8-years). new fuel pump, gas tank, oil, plugs, cap and rotor. had 2 codes 23 and 18. got the TPS sensor adjusted (code 23 )so now i just have the spout sensor short to ground code (code 18) and it runs like crap. i'm changing the TFI module today. so hopefull that will fix that then its on to the clutch not disengaging. thats probably the line in already stretched or/and the stock plastic quadrant is crap (which it is anyway right ) Last edited by littlebeeper; 05-20-2008 at 11:25 PM. Reason: fixed

05-19-2008, 04:44 PM	#4
hi ofcr cobra Bad Asp Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: College Station Posts: 85 Trader Rating: (1)	I had a charging issue with my 93 and the prob was right where you are describing. There are 2 10-12ga black wires coming from the main alternator plug, they are black with orange/yellow stripes (if i remember right). One of them goes to the battery side of the solinoid and on my car that wire was corroded; i used a new section of 10ga wire and crimped it in past the corrosion... works perfectly now. Follow the two black wires from the alt and see if one of them comes up short... On my car the thinner wire was tapped into the same black alt to battery wire so I left it alone. I havent traced it back yet but everything works fine for now. There was a lot of shotty wiring on my car when I bought it so the thin wire MAY have another purpose/destination. Hope that helps, I can get you pics if you need em. __________________ '03 Cobra (DD + track toy) '93 LX Hatch (CMC project car) Mods List & Pics Track Vids

05-19-2008, 04:50 PM	#5
thatdavidkid looks mean, workin' on the fast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Denton Posts: 3,816 Trader Rating: (0)	here's the wiring layout for the charging system. __________________ t-5 swap, billit quadrant, upr firewall adjuster, steeda tri-ax, custom jb tool and fab one off subframe connectors, 8.8 w/posi and 4.10's with 5 lug axles, tubular upper control arms, southside lowers, and pbr twin piston front calipers with "snowflake" wheels

05-19-2008, 04:53 PM	#6
thatdavidkid looks mean, workin' on the fast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Denton Posts: 3,816 Trader Rating: (0)	i see a black/orange 16 guage as a window defrost.... does that work on yours? there is also a black and orange 14 guage wire that is to your voltage regulator... the only yellow i see there is to your brake lights __________________ t-5 swap, billit quadrant, upr firewall adjuster, steeda tri-ax, custom jb tool and fab one off subframe connectors, 8.8 w/posi and 4.10's with 5 lug axles, tubular upper control arms, southside lowers, and pbr twin piston front calipers with "snowflake" wheels

05-21-2008, 08:16 AM	#10
thatdavidkid looks mean, workin' on the fast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Denton Posts: 3,816 Trader Rating: (0)	i would re-check your wiring before you blow money on an alternator... could just be another wiring goof somewhere... you obviously know your alt. wiring wasn't great... dont dismiss any more wiring problems just yet. __________________ t-5 swap, billit quadrant, upr firewall adjuster, steeda tri-ax, custom jb tool and fab one off subframe connectors, 8.8 w/posi and 4.10's with 5 lug axles, tubular upper control arms, southside lowers, and pbr twin piston front calipers with "snowflake" wheels

05-19-2008, 04:10 PM	#2
X2CRAYZIX Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Universal City Posts: 953 Trader Rating: (1)	ill look at my 90 Gt and see if i can see what they might be

05-19-2008, 04:33 PM	#3
X2CRAYZIX Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Universal City Posts: 953 Trader Rating: (1)	sorry i dont see those on mine

05-19-2008, 05:45 PM	#7
littlebeeper Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 163 Trader Rating: (1)	i only get like 3 volts out of the Black wire. I'll check the alternator 1st and see if thats bad and if i get power to that black wire. i see in the wiring diagram from Autozone (wow can't believe they had this on their website ) that the black wire is to the alternator as well. I don't have rear defronst so i'll see what else that other wire might be. according to the scematics from autozone there is also a yellow wire that connects to the starter relay at the same spot as the black wire. the schematics says "fuse link E brn" at the fuse so i'm guessing it changes to brown as my yellow wire does after the fuse? i just have to check if its yellow with a white stripe. this is the schematics i used fig 39 almost all the way down </title></head>"); newWindow.document.writeln("<body><div align='center'><img " + getWidth("yes") + "src='/images/cds/" + tpe + "/" + sze + "/" + pc + "." + tpe + "'></img></div>"); newWindow.document.writeln("<div align='center'><table><tr><td><FORM

05-20-2008, 11:51 AM	#8
littlebeeper Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 163 Trader Rating: (1)	well alternator is good so those wires have to be from the alternator. the TFI module tasted good but i bought it back when Autozone had lifetime on them so i went ahead and got a new one. I'll see if this fixes the problem. its just wierd that it tested good and the car runs like shit. won't even rev past 3000 RPM it sputters real bad and smokes a lot as it reaches 3000 and idles pretty bad too

05-20-2008, 11:27 PM	#9
littlebeeper Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 163 Trader Rating: (1)	thanks for the help guys. large wire was indeed the alternators hot wire and the smaller was the regulator. i got charge out of the black wire when i plugged in the small wire to the starter solenoid hot side. charge lite in cluster shut off. now i need a 3g alternator. I'm barely throwing 12 volts. its just enough to get the idiot light to shut off

05-21-2008, 09:25 AM	#11
littlebeeper Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 163 Trader Rating: (1)	very true. i still need to make sure the alternator is throwing more voltage at the alternator itself. those plugs tend to get brittle and break or just make poor connections. And i still need to see why i'm throwing code 18. or maybe it was cause i was off time pretty bad. i had to move the distributor counter clockwise one tooth just to get back into the cranks timing marks. don't think that fixed the code but the motor revs very well now but idles crappy and still smokes. i never changed the injectors after replacing the gas tank and fuel pump. if the old gas left a 1/4 inch of muck on the bottom of the old tank and froze up the old pump from the inside (still buzzes when plugged to the battery but can't turn) then i'm pretty sure one or more of the injectors is shot. prolly throwing too much fuel, stuck open or the regulator is stuck closed. wow, i still have some work to do huh? LOL thanks

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes	Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode	Rate This Thread: