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#1 |
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Registered User
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ignition and wireing
well whare to start... my car has allways had a wireing problem as you know i jump it at the sylanoid to start it. i have replaced everything in the wireing like the starter,sylanoid, ignition switch, altanator and a few others i havent gone through the wires themselfes to look for a short but lets get to the point i have gone through 3 altantors in the past 3 months and now one of the studs on the back of the altanator for the pos side shered off at the bolt and then melted off some how and it didnt melt the wires (though they would go way before the 1/2 stud i think) and the wireing harnes for the altanator welded itself to the back of the altanator and i need a new voltage regulator so needless to say i wont be drivin it at night nor any whare far because its not chargin the battery. i can get a rebuild altanator again for 55 bucks and a voltage regulator for around 40 but i cant seem to find a wireing harnes for the altanator everything goes to 64 1/2 -70 so im SOL. i cant rewire it due to conectors that go in to the voltage regulator and the boots on the back whare it bolts to the altanator are well melted off to so ive been lookin for about 3 days now to find it but no luck update i got one from scott drake and its looks like it will work just watin till friday to get all my new parts but if that still wont make the car crank over all the time from the key i have no clue whare to start i can rebuild an engine with ease wireing is like nuclear physics to me i have no clue what to do any help would be greatley appreciated thanks
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#2 | |
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Check ya later!
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#3 |
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Registered User
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ya i found my book that has the wireing schematics but i have no clue what it means squigley lines and what not i dont know but on a brighter note i got the car to constantley crank with out jumpin it at the sylanoid i replaced my neg batt cable and my starter cable to the sylanoid i found my starter cable was electrical taped half way bc the rubber melted/chiped off and whare it connects to the starter the cable was laying on my hedders so im thinkin it was constatley grounding out and my neg cable was shot to i put the alt back in the car with my old harnes it dosent charge but it runs so im all sorts of happy just got to get a new alt and harnes and want to replace the voltage regulator just for shits and giggles so i feel a little safer and if anyone knows of a classic junkyard for well obviousley mustangs hit me up so i can get some cheap parts they dont make any more or if anyones got a 71-73 pars car kinda thing thanks a bunch guys and gals
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#4 |
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aka...BlackJack
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periods, commas question marks...
sorry, just had to. a friend of mine had the same problem and it turned out being the wiring from the key assembly/ignition switch.
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![]() SCT, JLT, Pullies, Gears, 3000 stall, BMR LCA's, Steeda Superlites, O/R H, Mac Axlebacks and BAMACHIPS tuned!
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#7 |
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Killing is my Business...And Business is Good!
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I have the wiring diagrams also but it will do you no good if you cant read them. I can possibly walk you thru it if you have a test light. Also you did not mention if you have a manual tranny or an automatic?
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![]() 1988 Mustang LX |
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#8 | |
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Check ya later!
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#9 | |
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Killing is my Business...And Business is Good!
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But you knew that. ![]()
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![]() 1988 Mustang LX |
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#10 | |
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Check ya later!
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Quote:
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#11 |
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Registered User
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ya its an auto c4 i have to also thought about the saftey switch but i dont rightfully know how to adjust it nor how to put it in or whare exactley its at right now im just goin through the engine compartment crap to see if its any of that hopefully after i replace all this crap it will work fine if not the saftey switch is #1 on my list of bad times
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#12 | |
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Check ya later!
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Quote:
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#13 |
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Registered User
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i really cant tell its allways been this way if ya want you can drive it around and see but i dont think so if ya do drive ir rember IS F***IN MANUAL BREAKS AN ALL 4 WHEEL DRUM so stopin sucks god i hate my breaks but its allways shifted the same but im not the 1st owner as you can tell so i honestley wouldnt know what im looking for
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#14 |
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Registered User
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its been over a week and a half and my shit still hasent come in im still pissed to and i riged up the car batt and the altanator whare i think its charging because i drove around last night my lights were pulsing really bad but i got home and put it on the charger and it was at 100% charge so.... i think its ok for a little while till i get all my stuff in
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#15 | |
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Killing is my Business...And Business is Good!
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Quote:
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![]() 1988 Mustang LX |
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#16 |
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Registered User
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well what i mean is that my alt harnes is kinda friyed so i spliced new wire in and whare it hits the alt the main connctor was half melted through so i kinda locked it in with a bold and what not if i do fry anything its going to be in the alt, alt harnes or voltage regulator i belive but im gettin all new ones of those i just got payed and got about 1000 in the bank so after this im putin my powerbreak kit in (rebuildin it) and those new halogen headlights breaks will probley cost 130 for rotors (ebay drilled & sloted zinc plated) 30 per calaper and a mounting kit 40 (calapers to the spindel) and fineally the master cylaner 45-55 bucks and thats all so total 330 thats with the 60 headlights but i called and my stuff is comin in tomarow or the next day but im not drivin it anywhare so i think im ok
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#17 |
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Registered User
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and does any one know how the indaglo gauge kit for the classics look its about 120 bucks and was wondering how it looks in an actual car ive seen pics but never in person and i bet you can actually see the lights at night hua? thats why i want it instead of lookin at the tac figurin out what i run at that rpm
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#18 | |
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Killing is my Business...And Business is Good!
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![]() 1988 Mustang LX |
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#20 |
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Registered User
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ok well ill post some pics of the wireing harnes for the alt today to see of any one can point out the problem w/o being here with me
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mods rollin on 15!! but there craggers holly 4bbl 600 erson cam .505 on lift c4 shift kit k/n filter electronic ignition (no crappy points) weiand stelph alumium intake 302 block 351 heads forged pistons, rods ect hooker headders 3" dull exaust flowmasters 2 1/2" |
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