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#1 |
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Registered User
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installing long tubes
how difficult is it on an 87 5.0 5spd, and can you get both in from the top or do you have to go from the bottom. i tried searching for a thread but found nothing. if there is one just let me know. thanks
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#3 |
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Registered User
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If you are running the factory headers on your car now, i would recomend looking at a good set of equal length shorty headers, MAC or BBK are good brands. They will bolt right in and you will not have to change the rest of your exhaust.
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'84 fox convertible. E7 roller block .030 over with Hyper. pistons and stock stroke for now. E7 heads, Weiand Stealth intake, holley 4777, comp cams magnum 290 cam and springs, and complete MSD ignition. MAC equal length shorty headers to BBK O/R X-pipe to dual chamber flows. Electric fan conversion. '92 silver ponys. Just added, UPR non adjustable upper and lower control arms, Eiback Pro drop springs, MGW short throw shifter, billet overflow tank, and a few other billet accessories. |
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#4 |
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looks mean, workin' on the fast
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it's only 4 extra bolts to swap out the x pipe or whatever he has... and the prices on x pipes are rediculously low... you can pretty much find orx's for lt's for 100 bucks all day long... as far as the install, i'm sliding mine in from the top.... with the motor out of the car.
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t-5 swap, billit quadrant, upr firewall adjuster, steeda tri-ax, custom jb tool and fab one off subframe connectors, 8.8 w/posi and 4.10's with 5 lug axles, tubular upper control arms and southside lowers next, '00 gt brakes, followed by my 306 swap |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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i understand that parts are cheaper now than they have been, but there are other issues with long tubes in foxes. i have an 88 with long tubes and they cause me nothing but problems. i had to pull the passenger side header off to change the starter, because no matter what brand of header you choose, you are going to have starter over heating issues if you dont insulate the starter to protect it.
My only point was that with the shorties he can do the complete swap from the top of the car without pulling the motor or breaking loose a motor mount, and he will not have to buy any additional parts for his exhaust or starter. it makes maintenace in the future easier, and he will get pretty close to the same power gains, he may loose about 5-10flb of torque, but that wont be that noticable except on the dyno.
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'84 fox convertible. E7 roller block .030 over with Hyper. pistons and stock stroke for now. E7 heads, Weiand Stealth intake, holley 4777, comp cams magnum 290 cam and springs, and complete MSD ignition. MAC equal length shorty headers to BBK O/R X-pipe to dual chamber flows. Electric fan conversion. '92 silver ponys. Just added, UPR non adjustable upper and lower control arms, Eiback Pro drop springs, MGW short throw shifter, billet overflow tank, and a few other billet accessories. |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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thanks for the input guys. i honestly was wanting to go equal lengths at first, but i could no pass up this deal on lt's so i got them. i am going to put an o/r x pipe on, so mostly its just the actual installation of the headers that i was curious about. and im going to be wrapping them in header wrap to keep the temp down under the hood anyways. do you think i will need more then just header wrap, for protecting the starter.
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#7 |
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looks mean, workin' on the fast
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you can buy a similar product for the starter..
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t-5 swap, billit quadrant, upr firewall adjuster, steeda tri-ax, custom jb tool and fab one off subframe connectors, 8.8 w/posi and 4.10's with 5 lug axles, tubular upper control arms and southside lowers next, '00 gt brakes, followed by my 306 swap |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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You can also drop the kmember down and install thru the bottom with ease. Thats wat we do on 2 valve and 4 valve car. Makes it real simple. Just my .02
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03 Cobra 11.85@119 with a 1.75 60 foot 04 F150 crewcab lowered Cars For Sale: Prices are OBO 86 GT project car Black on Gray int 1500.00 Parts for sale: Prices are OBO 86-93 Powerdyne BD11a 1000.00 89-93 ProM MAF calibrated for 19lb 150.00 Previous cars: Shit load www.ctmotorsports.net www.centraltexasperformance.com |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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If you haven't put your headers in yet you might want to get some new motor mounts if your car still has the ones from the factory. you'll see what a difference they make in installing longtubes and equal length headers and the fit...
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#10 |
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LSS Sponsor
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It depends what brand of header you get, but I would say most will install from the bottom and you may have to loosen the motor mount on the side that you are installing or both mounts and jack the engine up. Some of the left side headers you can get in from the top by removing the steering shaft. I have heard of people having trouble with long tube headers heating up starters, but I have not had that problem on any of my cars yet and most of my mustangs have had long tube headers. I have had one set of shorties and have worked on a many others with shorties, I don't like any of them. If you are going to use shorties go with an unequal length with a one piece flange. None of the shorties will give you as much power increase as a good long tube and the equal lenght shorties make it a pain in the ass to change plugs and you will probably burn many sets of plug wires. If you are going to spend the money buy a set of long tubes.
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The goal is to get the car to run 10.0 on radials,with out a power adder and still be streetable. My car is an '85 sonic blue coupe with 302 bored and stroked to 364, Ported Twisted Wedge heads and a BXR intake, A9M ECM with a Tweecer, C4 with trans brake, 275/60/15 M/T drag radials, no power adders. |
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#11 |
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always asleepn
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i have some eqaul lenghts and i would def get some long tubes.the sound alone sounds way better
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91 lx not on the sidelines anymore baby} ![]() 98 gt on the streets. mod motors suk![]() MAD PROPS 2 AnR GOT BOTH MY BEAST RUNNING GOOD. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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