Looking for a 5.0 mech

2b1ask1 · 04-02-2008, 10:16 PM

Having a problem starting my 5.0.Cranks but won't start. Does anyone know of a good Mech or shop in the medical center area?

sticks905.0 · 04-02-2008, 10:30 PM

well could be your not getting fuel or fire. turn the key and you should hear the pump priming. if not the pump is bad. what else happens whenyou crank it?

2b1ask1 · 04-02-2008, 10:37 PM

Its getting spark to the coil and fuel. I took to shop and they were puzzled to. I changed all the usual stuff. and even replaced and upgraded all the electrical. I get no spark out dist but I do having coming out the coil to the dist.

H0SS302 · 04-02-2008, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2b1ask1

Having a problem starting my 5.0.Cranks but won't start. Does anyone know of a good Mech or shop in the medical center area?

not in the medical center, far from it actually. But ANR Motorsports would almost certainly take care of that for you.

Robert:210-897-6318 give em a call.

sticks905.0 · 04-02-2008, 10:40 PM

take the tfi module and get it tested at auto zone. let me see. i asume you did the cap and rotor.

2b1ask1 · 04-02-2008, 10:53 PM

Yea did all the stuff I could think of. Got 65 coupe with an old school engine no prob. saw the 91 coupe for sale and couldn't resist. Big fat tires, 3 1/2 upfront, Not an everyday driver( Open exhaust with/ headers) The fuel injection is new to me but I knew sooner or later I would get the 5.0 and knew I would have to start to learn about it sooner or later. As popular the cars are I knew if asked the right people when a problem would arise. I could deal with that. Thanks for the Robs number I will call in the AM.

Allnuts · 04-02-2008, 11:03 PM

I bet the ignition wire that goes to the EEC Relay is fried.

2b1ask1 · 04-02-2008, 11:15 PM

Is that one of the fusible links? It is my understanding from the tech manual, It looks like a regular wire but withen the insulation is were it breaks. I did not want to get to excited and start doing anything to drastic or until I got to speak to someone who actually knows this setup. I am sure of one thing and that there are plenty of cars guys who have already seen this and knew how frustrating it was to find. Now I am their. Well let me take a stab and guess the ignition wire from the key ignition on the column to the EEC relay located under the dash just past the steering colum on the inside of the firewall?

Allnuts · 04-03-2008, 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2b1ask1

Is that one of the fusible links? It is my understanding from the tech manual, It looks like a regular wire but withen the insulation is were it breaks. I did not want to get to excited and start doing anything to drastic or until I got to speak to someone who actually knows this setup. I am sure of one thing and that there are plenty of cars guys who have already seen this and knew how frustrating it was to find. Now I am their. Well let me take a stab and guess the ignition wire from the key ignition on the column to the EEC relay located under the dash just past the steering colum on the inside of the firewall?

Correct, The wire is red/green stripe.

2b1ask1 · 04-03-2008, 12:07 AM

Are you kidding me?

Allnuts · 04-03-2008, 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2b1ask1

Are you kidding me?

No why?

2b1ask1 · 04-03-2008, 12:14 AM

I guess just reading the manual with no real clue just tryin to your best sometimes make you wonder your not as hard headed as some may think. Just need some backup to know I am right track. Now this fusible link is just internal to the wire which I will use a multimeter to OHm out. then do I just cut out the wire and splice to gether or replace with some type of quick connect fusible link?

Allnuts · 04-03-2008, 12:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2b1ask1

I guess just reading the manual with no real clue just tryin to your best sometimes make you wonder your not as hard headed as some may think. Just need some backup to know I am right track. Now this fusible link is just internal to the wire which I will use a multimeter to OHm out. then do I just cut out the wire and splice to gether or replace with some type of quick connect fusible link?

My bad the wire doesn't have a fusible link. But I had the same problem on my old 5.0, so I ran a new wire from under the steering column to the eec relay and it fire right up. You are suppose to have 12v on that wire with ignition key on, I had 5v on mine.

2b1ask1 · 04-03-2008, 12:23 AM

Excellent this is great news. I can't look at this tonight due to obvious loud reasons if it was to fire up

But never the less I have something to look forward all day at work. Thanks Nuts or Allnuts if you prefer.

Allnuts · 04-03-2008, 12:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2b1ask1

Excellent this is great news. I can't look at this tonight due to obvious loud reasons if it was to fire up

But never the less I have something to look forward all day at work. Thanks Nuts or Allnuts if you prefer.

You welcome, This schematic could help you understand what you looking for

2b1ask1 · 04-03-2008, 12:40 AM

Looking at the schematic the red / lt green makes a T one to the ignition control module and the other to the Ignition coil. Do duplicate the entire wire path to both? P.S. I'll hit you back later today got to get some sleep. Again I can't say thanks enough for your generous time.

Allnuts · 04-03-2008, 02:52 AM

For Now Focus on the attached part

stangfreak · 04-03-2008, 11:23 PM

is this a standard or automatic?
It helps to know this for assistance. (I know it sounds weird) If it is an automatic, check the Park/Neutral safety switch to make sure it did not come lose or undone. (this would allow starter to bump but not turn over. Also would show correct voltage but a ground coming from ignition switch to the starter relay which is on the fender. (i think its the white and pink wire) It it's a standard it will be from the clutch pedal up under the dash. same thing, if loose or undone...no start situation.
if it WAS and auto and is NOW a standard then you will have both, but the one going to the tranny will be spliced together under the car somewhere.
*ps. to test a fuseable link in the future, hold the two ends of the wire and lightly try and "stretch" the wire, if it stretches, the link needs to be replaced. If it is solid like a normal wire, it is good.
Hope this helps.

89-cobra · 04-04-2008, 12:30 PM

dam i have that same problem, once in a while... but when it cools down it will start

96greengt · 04-12-2008, 12:35 PM

I fixed it, it was the injector driver that was bad, replace the PCM with another one and took care of his issues.

04-02-2008, 10:16 PM	#1
2b1ask1 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: SA Posts: 11 Trader Rating: (0)	Looking for a 5.0 mech Having a problem starting my 5.0.Cranks but won't start. Does anyone know of a good Mech or shop in the medical center area?

04-03-2008, 02:52 AM	#17
Allnuts LoneStarStangs Addict Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: San Antonio,Tx Posts: 704 Trader Rating: (-1)	For Now Focus on the attached part Attached Thumbnails

04-03-2008, 11:23 PM	#18
stangfreak It's LOUD but YOU looked! Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: San Antonio Posts: 643 Trader Rating: (1)	is this a standard or automatic? It helps to know this for assistance. (I know it sounds weird) If it is an automatic, check the Park/Neutral safety switch to make sure it did not come lose or undone. (this would allow starter to bump but not turn over. Also would show correct voltage but a ground coming from ignition switch to the starter relay which is on the fender. (i think its the white and pink wire) It it's a standard it will be from the clutch pedal up under the dash. same thing, if loose or undone...no start situation. if it WAS and auto and is NOW a standard then you will have both, but the one going to the tranny will be spliced together under the car somewhere. *ps. to test a fuseable link in the future, hold the two ends of the wire and lightly try and "stretch" the wire, if it stretches, the link needs to be replaced. If it is solid like a normal wire, it is good. Hope this helps. __________________ Deep thought... Why does one commit the most selfish of acts, suicide, to get attention? Does it not defeat the purpose?

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04-02-2008, 10:30 PM	#2
sticks905.0 fox-man Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: san antonio tx Posts: 612 Trader Rating: (3)	well could be your not getting fuel or fire. turn the key and you should hear the pump priming. if not the pump is bad. what else happens whenyou crank it?

04-02-2008, 10:37 PM	#3
2b1ask1 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: SA Posts: 11 Trader Rating: (0)	Its getting spark to the coil and fuel. I took to shop and they were puzzled to. I changed all the usual stuff. and even replaced and upgraded all the electrical. I get no spark out dist but I do having coming out the coil to the dist.

04-02-2008, 10:40 PM	#5
sticks905.0 fox-man Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: san antonio tx Posts: 612 Trader Rating: (3)	take the tfi module and get it tested at auto zone. let me see. i asume you did the cap and rotor.

04-02-2008, 10:53 PM	#6
2b1ask1 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: SA Posts: 11 Trader Rating: (0)	Yea did all the stuff I could think of. Got 65 coupe with an old school engine no prob. saw the 91 coupe for sale and couldn't resist. Big fat tires, 3 1/2 upfront, Not an everyday driver( Open exhaust with/ headers) The fuel injection is new to me but I knew sooner or later I would get the 5.0 and knew I would have to start to learn about it sooner or later. As popular the cars are I knew if asked the right people when a problem would arise. I could deal with that. Thanks for the Robs number I will call in the AM.

04-02-2008, 11:03 PM	#7
Allnuts LoneStarStangs Addict Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: San Antonio,Tx Posts: 704 Trader Rating: (-1)	I bet the ignition wire that goes to the EEC Relay is fried.

04-02-2008, 11:15 PM	#8
2b1ask1 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: SA Posts: 11 Trader Rating: (0)	Is that one of the fusible links? It is my understanding from the tech manual, It looks like a regular wire but withen the insulation is were it breaks. I did not want to get to excited and start doing anything to drastic or until I got to speak to someone who actually knows this setup. I am sure of one thing and that there are plenty of cars guys who have already seen this and knew how frustrating it was to find. Now I am their. Well let me take a stab and guess the ignition wire from the key ignition on the column to the EEC relay located under the dash just past the steering colum on the inside of the firewall?

04-03-2008, 12:07 AM	#10
2b1ask1 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: SA Posts: 11 Trader Rating: (0)	Are you kidding me?

04-03-2008, 12:14 AM	#12
2b1ask1 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: SA Posts: 11 Trader Rating: (0)	I guess just reading the manual with no real clue just tryin to your best sometimes make you wonder your not as hard headed as some may think. Just need some backup to know I am right track. Now this fusible link is just internal to the wire which I will use a multimeter to OHm out. then do I just cut out the wire and splice to gether or replace with some type of quick connect fusible link?

04-03-2008, 12:23 AM	#14
2b1ask1 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: SA Posts: 11 Trader Rating: (0)	Excellent this is great news. I can't look at this tonight due to obvious loud reasons if it was to fire up But never the less I have something to look forward all day at work. Thanks Nuts or Allnuts if you prefer.

04-03-2008, 12:40 AM	#16
2b1ask1 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: SA Posts: 11 Trader Rating: (0)	Looking at the schematic the red / lt green makes a T one to the ignition control module and the other to the Ignition coil. Do duplicate the entire wire path to both? P.S. I'll hit you back later today got to get some sleep. Again I can't say thanks enough for your generous time.

04-04-2008, 12:30 PM	#19
89-cobra Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: San Antonio Posts: 511 Trader Rating: (1)	dam i have that same problem, once in a while... but when it cools down it will start