[Ryan_65Stallion]

Well, to get to the point, she dyno'd at 122hp/177tq.

Here are my plans for her:

First mods to engine that will be done this year;
Install Eldelbrock Performer 289 intake manifold
D20E(casting number) 302 heads with 58cc combustion chambers P&P'd
Holly 4bbl 600cfm carb w/ vacuum secondaries
as for a cam, it already has on installed but I have no idea what brand it is.
Has a 14'' K&N Extreme Air Filter assembly(base, filter and lid)
And maybe install an electric fan to free up some power also.

I hope to make around 200hp with that setup.

I have been working on the heads, smoothing out the flanges and bottom of the head this past week and have gotten both intake ports P&P'd, which I did myself .

[jcp123]

Are those E7 heads or did you get the GT40's? Might look into a fan clutch, too...they'll net you about as much power as an e-fan but are less of a hassle. I'd say 200whp would be a stretch depending on the cam + heads, but I wouldn't be surprised to see 185hp with ported E7 heads and a mild cam. With ported GT40P or X's and something like a 272 cam I wouldn't be too surprised to see over 200hp. You might think about a Performer RPM intake as opposed to a 289 as well, would flow that much better and is still a good street intake.

[Ryan_65Stallion]

They're just 302 heads from what I know, except I can't find a year casted number anywhere on them

[jcp123]

Hmm...I presume you know how Ford's date codes work? Any idea what they're off of? And if you could get any kind of specs on the cam (previous owner, maybe?), I could get you a rough estimate of crank HP on my Engine Analyzer 3.0. Seems to be a pretty accurate program.

[Ryan_65Stallion]

Originally Posted by jcp123

Hmm...I presume you know how Ford's date codes work? Any idea what they're off of? And if you could get any kind of specs on the cam (previous owner, maybe?), I could get you a rough estimate of crank HP on my Engine Analyzer 3.0. Seems to be a pretty accurate program.

No, I really have no idea how the date codes work, I know on my stock heads they have "65" stamped on them though, but I don't see any year number on these, just a circle with some numbers & letters. Hows the date code work?
No, I can't get anything on the cam.

[jcp123]

Date codes work as follows:

The part numbers for almost everything on a Ford car start with a letter, followed by a number. The letter stands for the decade, the number for the year within the decade. C is the '60's, D = '70's. E = 80's, F = 90's. Thus, a code that starts with C5 would be 1965, one that starts with D4 would be 1974, and E7 would be 1987.

Since Ford doesn't re-work their heads every year, the first two letters off the part number are really all you need to ID the heads.

Maybe you could get a pic of the codes in the castings?

[Ryan_65Stallion]

Ok, I just checked the casting number and it is D20E

[jcp123]

Hmm, that's one head I'm not too familiar with. I'll try and grab some info for you, although it's hard because the big blocks had a D2OE head, too.

[aguilarf]

From another forum:

broncnaz
11/05/06, 12:49 AM
My book says 302 head also 71-74. 351W heads would or should have 351 cast in to them and I dont show any D2 heads for 351W in my books all 70-74 351W heads should be D0OE castings 75-77 are D5TE and after 77 I believe all 302 and 351 heads are the same casting with no differance except for head bolt size.
As for being good heads the D2OE are ok they are supposed to have 58cc chambers according to one book but another book says they have 63cc chambers either way there not real performance pieces in stock form. But will work good enough on a rebuilt or slightly modified engine.

[keg65]

I find them listed at 58.2cc

[Ryan_65Stallion]

Originally Posted by aguilarf

From another forum:

broncnaz
11/05/06, 12:49 AM
My book says 302 head also 71-74. 351W heads would or should have 351 cast in to them and I dont show any D2 heads for 351W in my books all 70-74 351W heads should be D0OE castings 75-77 are D5TE and after 77 I believe all 302 and 351 heads are the same casting with no differance except for head bolt size.
As for being good heads the D2OE are ok they are supposed to have 58cc chambers according to one book but another book says they have 63cc chambers either way there not real performance pieces in stock form. But will work good enough on a rebuilt or slightly modified engine.

I'm going to get some AFR's later on when I have the money for them but as long as these are better than my 289 heads I'm going to use them. What you thkn about my port job?

[jcp123]

That's about as much as I've found on them, although they seem to have slightly bigger valves than your stock heads. As for flow, I haven't seen any flow bench date, either stock or ported, but with the larger valves, it may be that they respond well to it, especially if you grind the EGR crap down.

Cylinder-Head Casting Numbers
Ford Head Flow Data and Specs
Two Guys Garage Forum - View Single Post - Will Someone learn me good

[aguilarf]

Looks good enough to get you some improvement in flow. while you have the heads on the table, it would be a good time to index your spark plugs.

Instructions

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

<DIV class="Steps Resizable">Things You’ll Need:

<UL class="Notes Resizable">

[aguilarf]

Looks good enough to get you some improvement in flow. while you have the heads on the table, it would be a good time to index your spark plugs.

Step 1:
Open hood and remove spark plugs.
Step 2:
Mark each spark plug where the electrode is attached to the spark plug body.
Step 3:
Identify where the exhaust valve is located on your engine block.
Step 4:
Screw in a spark plug and check if the mark on the spark plug is pointing away from the exhaust valve. If they do not line up, use indexing washers (they come in different thicknesses) to align the electrode away from the exhaust valve. By pointing the spark plug electrode away from the center of the chamber, it provides unobstructed spread of the spark flame.

[Ryan_65Stallion]

Sweet, thanks for the info!
Should I go with regular motorcraft plugs or something a little better

[jcp123]

Originally Posted by aguilarf

Looks good enough to get you some improvement in flow. while you have the heads on the table, it would be a good time to index your spark plugs.

Step 1:
Open hood and remove spark plugs.
Step 2:
Mark each spark plug where the electrode is attached to the spark plug body.
Step 3:
Identify where the exhaust valve is located on your engine block.
Step 4:
Screw in a spark plug and check if the mark on the spark plug is pointing away from the exhaust valve. If they do not line up, use indexing washers (they come in different thicknesses) to align the electrode away from the exhaust valve. By pointing the spark plug electrode away from the center of the chamber, it provides unobstructed spread of the spark flame.

+1 on that. Motorcraft/Autolites have always treated me well. Could open up the gap a little, too, if you have a good coil.

[aguilarf]

Stick to standard copper plugs, your engine doesn't need platinum center electrodes. Platinum plugs can actualy increase the resistance it takes to fire. A good copper Autolite Motorcraft or Champion will do just fine. Since you have HEI you can open the gap with no problems. You can go .005 over the recommended gap or even a little more depending on how much voltage your coil is actually putting out. Since we are tlking about your HEI, make sure your electrical system is in good shape. If you can upgrade your wire that runs from you battery to alternator to a minimum 4 gauge and make sure you are well grounded. The easier your electrical system works the more you have avaiilable to fire that HEI.

[Ryan_65Stallion]

I don't have a coil
but the HEI is rated at 50,000 volts or whatever they called.
Yeah, my wires aren't to big that are going to the alt. which I might go with a 80amp since I have my sound system and am going to put and electric fan later on.

[aguilarf]

The coil assembly itself is in the top of the hat(cap). A 50,000 volt coil should be able to fire a plug gap as big as 0.55. Always start with a good electrical base before adding on big draw items like you mentioned.

[Ryan_65Stallion]

Originally Posted by aguilarf

The coil assembly itself is in the top of the hat(cap). A 50,000 volt coil should be able to fire a plug gap as big as 0.55. Always start with a good electrical base before adding on big draw items like you mentioned.

oh, k, haha.
K, I think the gap right now is set at .4