My 85 SVO

**2k4mk1** · 07-30-2010, 07:51 AM

Kudos on the day shift deal. Makes it easier to work on it i bet...

**Bob Barker** · 07-30-2010, 12:44 PM

Hope so...

Now I'm just sitting on the couch waiting for the UPS man to get here with my boxes!

**Bob Barker** · 08-04-2010, 08:36 PM

I love coming home to find the UPS truck has come by earlier than expected. It's like a quicky before work!

Got my FMIC, 38mm wastegate longer braided oil feed/return lines and tubular header today, waiting on the turbo back exhaust and tubing for the FMIC and I can hopefully put the SVO together this weekend! YAAYY!!!

This car is such a joy to drive. I actually enjoy it more than I ever did the Mach 1. Hopefully soon I'll get it registered and painted and enjoy it again.

**Bob Barker** · 08-07-2010, 03:13 PM

It sucks to get these parts in and not have any instructions on how to mount or tips on what I need to finish it all... PM'd the guy on his website and waiting for some kind of suggestions before I get it all in there. He also said the pipes for the FMIC and downpipe would be in Tuesday or Wednesday next week. Looking forward to that too. No cat and no tail pipe will rattle the crap out of this car!

**2k4mk1** · 08-07-2010, 03:26 PM

Well figuring out the manifold shouldnt be too hard. Turbo on the big flat flange and bov on the side looks like. The inter-cooler may take a lil figuring.
Stop complaining and start workimg bro........lol

Hope ya get r done son.

**Bob Barker** · 08-07-2010, 05:59 PM

The intake housing has to be rotated a certaing direction for the intercooler piping to fit, and since the piping isn't here I have to sorta guess and leave everything partly tightened for now, and the oil feed and drain tubes need to be facing straight up and down so that had to be turned before tightening down to the exhaust housing. Then I find out the header didn't come with new bolts that attach it to the head, so I sent Terrah with exact descriptions of the bolts needed, from the guys website, and she came back with the wrong ones... so that's on hold until I get back

and I have no idea where to start with the intercooler... at least not until the piping gets here... so that's a dead end too...

Since I couldn't work on the SVO this weekend too much, I went and bought a set of Polk Audio 6&1/2" component speakers and a small amp to run them, so I have to move the speakers in the doors now to the back location, which is built to hold a smalller speaker so I will be busy trying to modify that bracket. I did get the Curt hitch mounted last weekend so I got at least 1 thing marked off the list!

**2k4mk1** · 08-07-2010, 06:44 PM

Well alright at least your making headway....

And you know you cant send a woman to the auto parts store and get the correct thing.............

**Bob Barker** · 08-07-2010, 09:35 PM

Yeah I'm learning that quickly! She said she could get them right since she used to work at an Ace so that makes her a lifetime expert on all things hardware!

**2k4mk1** · 08-08-2010, 05:13 PM

Man if I was closer Id come help ya out.......But ya had to go n move to Florida

**Bob Barker** · 08-08-2010, 07:01 PM

We went back and got the right size bolts today, still waiting on the down pipe to see if it has a hanger hook on it for under the car so I can cut the one off that's on the stock pipe now. Also have a small problem with one of the holes on the flange in a hell of a spot where there is some support metal welded from the primary the the turbo flange in the way of one of the bolts. I may cut down the bolt a little to be able to get a wrench in there and tighten it down. Soon as the intercooler pipes get in I'll be able to get the unit test fit to the pipes. Then hopefully she'll crank up and drive around again.

**2k4mk1** · 08-09-2010, 08:22 AM

Saweet

**Bob Barker** · 08-14-2010, 06:43 PM

Got the pipes in for the exhaust and intercooler.

gettin' into it all!

Old down pipe and stock manifold coming out

New 3" DP waiting for me to make some room under the car for it!

Think it'll flow better? hope so!

Ran into a small problem mounting the header. This little booger won't line up through the header flange, I think because the primary is in the way. I'm waiting for a PM back from the manufacturer to see if this is a common problem and how to fix. I want to grind on the primary a little but that sounds kinda sketcy to me. Thin metal an all that noise...

**Bigdrumma22** · 08-15-2010, 02:19 AM

Originally Posted by Bob Barker

Ran into a small problem mounting the header. This little booger won't line up through the header flange, I think because the primary is in the way. I'm waiting for a PM back from the manufacturer to see if this is a common problem and how to fix. I want to grind on the primary a little but that sounds kinda sketcy to me. Thin metal an all that noise...
[qimg]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/009.jpg[/qimg]
[qimg]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/012.jpg[/qimg]

Pull the header flange away from the block and start that bolt first if that's the only one giving you issues. I've had the same issue on my chevy truck headers. The tube closer to the flange gives you more clearance, than if you try to start the bolt as you're doing. The tube puts it at an angle that way as you already know. Pulling the flange away as you finger tighten it should allow it to thread in straight and easily fix your problem. It's probably a good idea to do that with all the close clearance bolts and just finger tighten each of them a bit at a time until all are in, then you can go and sinch them down after you know they're in straight.

**2k4mk1** · 08-15-2010, 09:15 AM

Ditch the allen headed bolts for a true header bolt with 7/16 wrench size. I had the same deal on the FACH and they did the trick. Also A small tap with a ball peen on the tube would help.
I was corious as to why the head ports are round and the header ports are D shaped in looking at the pics. Doesnt seem like that would be the best for flow.....

**Bob Barker** · 08-15-2010, 09:41 AM

Header openings are D shaped because all of the aftermarket ported heads end with a D shape opening. They're called D Port heads...

And the guy PM'd me back with the same solution as bigdrumma. Start that one first and then run the rest in.

Also found out he is going to start selling MS ECU systems completely ready to plug in and go. That's a huge deal since before now I don't think anyone had a complete system, you always had to buy a part here, another there, something else from over there. That kind of deal. His is going to include everything from a new ECU to an air meter (choice of speed density, MAF or something called Alpha-N... I think)

Anyhow, back out to the garage this morning to get this thing going. I really want to hear it run with that 3" short down pipe and no cat on it!

**JCP281** · 08-15-2010, 12:50 PM

Exhaust vid when done or it didnt happen!

**Bob Barker** · 08-15-2010, 09:09 PM

I made a lot of progress tonight, but not ready to run yet. Hoped I would be posting a vid of exhaust but not this time. All the bolts in the header/turbo flange/oil drain tubes area all seem to be in the way of each other. I need to cut one of the t3 flange bolts shorter so I can tighten down the oil drain line, have to take out the other 3 bolts so the housing can rotate the compressor side away from the top of this bolt to make room for a wrench.

Then there is a problem with the coolant lines that run into and out of the fire wall for the heater core behind the dash, they are rubber lines and now rest on that huge ass down pipe. I started loosening them to get them off and measure for some steel braided line for replacement and managed to pop one of the lines out of the core and now it won't stay in there, so I'm thinking about bypassing that, it would also clean up the engine bay a little with two less hoses running through it, and I won't neet to worry about the DP melting or overheating coolant as it passes through those lines. Now I just have to figure out what runs where and what I can plug and what is necessary...

It's a real pain but I'm enjoying it so far. Had to cut the hangar hook for the stock down pipe off because it was too long to pull out of the rubber it was in. I'll be needing to weld that back on in position with the new pipe if I'm ever going to run any tail pipe and muffler.

Also the factory wastegate (internal) mounted to the turbine housing and that part was used as a flange to hold the housing to the wheel, and I have to cut a part of that off to use as a flange now to hold the housing on!

lots of pain in the butt stuff... wish I had a better shop and more tools!!!

I was telling Terrah how jealous I am of that guys garage with the sexy 10.5 car and she went out and got me some lights. It's no professional job, but my redneck engineering hasn't caused any electrical fires yet and it really lights things up, now I can keep the garage door closed all the time and still be able to see and not get carried away by mosquitos! Plus I just propped the door open and now it's air conditioned!

**Bob Barker** · 08-17-2010, 07:25 PM

Here's what I got so far with the header and down pipe. I still haven't figured out how to assemble the wastegate, but haven't really set down to look at those parts yet either!

Here's a couple pictures of the interference with the electric fans. I'm wondering if I should just make some slight bends needed to clear the fans... what do you guys think?

All help is really appreciated! I'm giddy waiting for the thing to fire up so I can hear that massive exhaust!

**bsn95w** · 08-17-2010, 08:32 PM

this makes me concider keeping my turbocoupe.

**Bob Barker** · 08-17-2010, 08:59 PM

Stinger-perfomance.com is coming out with a TON of nice parts for the 2.3T cars right now. He's got a full MegaSquirt plug and play out of the box with choice of MAF or Alpha-N (whatever that is) or speed density coming for sale in a couple more months. I'm selling some step bars and a safari bar off the Vehicross to pay for it. Soon as he sets a price I'm reserving one. The guy is a genius with tuning on these cars.

**Bigdrumma22** · 08-17-2010, 10:14 PM

I wouldn't bend anything, I'd just figure out how much to cut out of the straight section of the pipe running front to back on the car and have it shortened and rewelded. The only other problem I then see is where it connects to the intercooler... are those fans going to impede that connection as well?

**Bob Barker** · 08-18-2010, 04:59 AM

dont know yet since I havent figured out how to mount that yet either!

**Bob Barker** · 08-23-2010, 06:31 PM

Well I had to put the fenders and bumper cover back on this weekend because the intercooler can't be mounted unless that cover is on there, There is a support plate on the bottom of the bumper area that the intercooler actually mounts to.

While I don't have any pictures of the fenders and bumper back on yet, I did do some work on the Vehicross!

I finally got the OME 912's in today after I got home from work. Got to work right away in the garage, and I'm proud to say it only took me about an hour to get the springs in. In fact it took me longer to drive to the parts store to get a 27mm wrench and drive back and raise the front torsion bars!

I didn't take any good before pictures, but here's a couple that I took of the truck when I got it home a few weeks ago.

And here is the after shots I took in the drive way

I think I need to raise the front some more, maybe an inch or less.

And since I can't afford a new MS ECU for the SVO and a new set of rims and tires for the VX I think I'm going to go ahead and get the stock 16" wheels powder coated and mount some nice tires on those.

I measured the front gap at 6 3/8th inches on both sides. I'll take it to get aligned this weekend when I pull the rotors and get them turned.

**Blown01snake** · 08-30-2010, 09:58 PM

you got skinny bro!! Nice work on the ride. It looks like you've been having a good time!

**SUfanINsa** · 08-31-2010, 01:49 PM

hahahahaha....i was gonna say the same damn thing. cocaine is a helluva drug!!!

**Bob Barker** · 08-31-2010, 07:08 PM

Ha! No cocaine here! Just a beach worth going to so a reason to try to look no so damn bad in a banana hammock!!!

I've got the front bumper and fenders back on and the bracket needed to hold the intercooler in place but haven't had time to get the thing mounted. I hate my job.

**Jay-sSs** · 09-03-2010, 01:55 PM

I wouldnt wanna pull my dash out of the fox thats too much stuff to deal with.

**WarHorse** · 09-03-2010, 02:06 PM

Originally Posted by Bigdrumma22

Pull the header flange away from the block and start that bolt first if that's the only one giving you issues. I've had the same issue on my chevy truck headers. The tube closer to the flange gives you more clearance, than if you try to start the bolt as you're doing. The tube puts it at an angle that way as you already know. Pulling the flange away as you finger tighten it should allow it to thread in straight and easily fix your problem. It's probably a good idea to do that with all the close clearance bolts and just finger tighten each of them a bit at a time until all are in, then you can go and sinch them down after you know they're in straight.

Yup...had to do the same thing with a set of shorties on my 82 GT. It was a bit tight, but getting the bolt in, holding it agains the header as if it had been torqued down and THEN starting it into the threads was the easiest way to go. Well...it might actually have been easier if the entire engine had been removed from the car while doing this, but you get the idea

**Bob Barker** · 09-13-2010, 07:21 PM

I got everything done and mounted and tightened up, AND IT ACTUALLY RESTARTED!!! Even if it was just for a second or two at a time. I have routed the hoses to the waste gate incorrectly and it's causing a vacuum problem which won't let it idle at all... I had to leave for work before I had time to try and straighten that out this morning, so maybe tomorrow morning before work I can try again. It sounded so damn sexy with that perfect hummm from the 3" down pipe!

I'll get some pics and a video of her running up by this weekend hopefully.

**Graves** · 09-13-2010, 07:32 PM

Sweet! Good job, Jon. I'm anxious to hear what she sounds like.

**Bob Barker** · 09-14-2010, 08:56 PM

Found the problem...

I forgot to ever order the blow of valve, so now the 1" hole in the intercooler piping is allowing all the idle air to escape when the throttle is closed, that's why the car would run with my foot on the gas but not idle... dumb move I know.

But I ordered one tonight and it should be here soon.

I got a buddy to start the car while I held my hand over the hole, just so I could hear it run again after so long. Sounds a little rediculous (even though it's a little quieter than I expected) but I kinda like it! I am getting closer and closer to making it a rat rod, since having a nice car with carpet and quiet exhaust costs so much money!

**Blown01snake** · 09-14-2010, 09:22 PM

you dirty rat!

that's like getting a girl all naked and....... dysfunction.....

**Bob Barker** · 09-16-2010, 11:56 AM

I hope the audio works... can't hear anything on this work computer.

**2k4mk1** · 09-16-2010, 12:45 PM

Yeah the audio is OK

**Bob Barker** · 09-17-2010, 05:03 PM

the new BOV should be in today before I get home. I'll be able to install that and get maybe a couple trips around the block to wake up all the gears as well!

**2k4mk1** · 09-17-2010, 10:09 PM

SAAWEEEEET!!!!

**Bob Barker** · 09-20-2010, 06:57 PM

Well I wasn't able to figure out how to get the VAM tube connected to the turbo (it's at a weird angle, and further away) so I ordered one of these. Hope it works...

K&N Apollo Universal Closed Air Intake Systems

I got the black one. Should mount up pretty nicely. I thought about dryer duct but just couldn't make myself be that redneck-e with my car!

**Ghost_LX** · 09-20-2010, 09:07 PM

nice build up... good luck with it

**Bob Barker** · 09-30-2010, 11:47 AM

So the car runs now, but won't start on it's own. The battery somehow went completly dead and after 5 starts and running for a while it still won't hold enough charge to start on it's own. I even took it for a spin the other day around the neighborhood and after it warmed up it wouldn't idle. It runs fine so long as I'm holding the gas open a little with the pedal but after it warms up it won't idle on it's own. Any reasons why? The car idle'd fine before taking things apart and ran fine and started fine, only thing I've changed so far is the exhaust and FMIC. Help?!

**KCOBRA00** · 09-30-2010, 11:57 AM

i just did a fmic on my coupe and now i'm having a little idle surge.. mine has always idled at about 1200 and now it surges inbetween 1400-1500.

what does your vacuumn gauge read?

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