Whats the best inexpensive cold air intake for my 01 v6 mustang? I was hoping under $200
Thanks for your suggestions
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Whats the best inexpensive cold air intake for my 01 v6 mustang? I was hoping under $200
Thanks for your suggestions
You can get a BBK for $179 from Summit.
91 Hatch
Mustang V6 Cold Air Intake Kit at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!
American Muscle has one for $69.99.... ?
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1996 GT Vert
1968 "Vanilla" Coupe
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"Some mornings it just doesn't seem worth it to gnaw through the leather straps."
- Emo Phillips
Originally Posted by TheSource
+1 for this, I just got a used one for my '95 in the news paper, only thing is that it's a PITA to put the filter on INSIDE the fender well.
--Pacific Green '97 Cobra--
Eibach sportline 1.5" drop, Tokico 8 way adj struts front & QA1 10 way adj rear
Cobra R front/rear sway bars & front upper strut bar, fully adj camber plates, 42# injectors
Vortech V1 s-trim, 80mm MAF, forged piston rods & crank, MAC pro dump w/ off-road H pipe.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tuned at 412hp and 343 lb ft of torque at wheels at 6psi. Best run @ 11.12
+100 I helped a buddy with his. I had to hold the tubing in the perfect position while my friend crawled underneath and tighten the filter. Defintely a PITA
But I got it for him on ebay for $30. The seller gets products from AmericanMuscle that have minor defects like scratches and marks on them and sells them for cheap. It was all brand new and the exact same one as that one priced at $69.99. It just had a small mark on the chrome tubing.
Last edited by slvrGT179; 08-02-2010 at 12:00 AM.
K&N CAI, SCT 91 tune, PI intake, Pypes O/R x-pipe, Flowmaster 40s,
FRPP 3.73s, RAM clutch kit, adjustable clutch cable, rebuilt T45,
Pro 5.0 short shifter, KYB AGX adjustable shocks/struts,
Eibach lowering springs, Maximum Motorsports CC plates,
Hyperblack Saleens 18x9 w/ 275s & 18x10 w/ 285s
Dont even waste your money on a CAI. The factory intake is already a CAI, and a decent one at that. The stock intake already provides a cooler air charge, and is corrected for laminar air flow. Most aftermarket CAI just mess up the airflow. 9/10x the gains are negligible, and can be compared to by just swapping out your paper filer with a K&N.Aftermarket CAIs on an N/A car are a gimmick IMO.
I've noticed quite a bit of difference in mine, aside from the wicked "sucking" noise it makes, the throttle picks up quicker and doesn't bog down as bad when attempting a WOT run (Has a horrid habit of flooding out, this helped a little). This is the ONLY mod I have aside from cutting my antenna in half ...
And if it was even possible, it lowered my highway running temp. Don't have a degree scale, but on the word "NORMAL" it use to run halfway up the "O" and now it runs on the left side of "N".
--Pacific Green '97 Cobra--
Eibach sportline 1.5" drop, Tokico 8 way adj struts front & QA1 10 way adj rear
Cobra R front/rear sway bars & front upper strut bar, fully adj camber plates, 42# injectors
Vortech V1 s-trim, 80mm MAF, forged piston rods & crank, MAC pro dump w/ off-road H pipe.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tuned at 412hp and 343 lb ft of torque at wheels at 6psi. Best run @ 11.12
Thats all an air filter will do for you is increase throttle response a tad. Your actual gain is next to no measurable gain. less than 5hp, which you cant feel that. When I had my fender well CAI I datalogged temps the same as what my stock unit is pulling in(with the silencer). Without the silencer was a a few * higher.
The point is, all you need is a more free flowing filter. Ford already gave you a CAI with the car. This is why CAI dont even do anything on our cars, and some even mess with the functionality of the MAF readings. And also, the air silencer that people always want to take off is NOT a restriction as so many people claim it to be.
+1 for what Cody said. Granted, im running a JLT but mainly for asthetics.
03 GT - CAI, Plenum, TB, Pullies, O/R H, Catback, 4.10's, Sniper Tuned...still slow.
Even if it did NOTHING, it's worth 69.99$ to snag one and throw it on, they add a unique "sucking" sound and look sharp as hell in the engine bay.
Not to mention K&N filters are 30-50$, so for 10$ more that marginal gain seems worth the gamble, but hey, i'm just a kid.
--Pacific Green '97 Cobra--
Eibach sportline 1.5" drop, Tokico 8 way adj struts front & QA1 10 way adj rear
Cobra R front/rear sway bars & front upper strut bar, fully adj camber plates, 42# injectors
Vortech V1 s-trim, 80mm MAF, forged piston rods & crank, MAC pro dump w/ off-road H pipe.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tuned at 412hp and 343 lb ft of torque at wheels at 6psi. Best run @ 11.12
If you want it for looks by all means go for it. But from a performance aspect, they are not worth the money. Iv had 2 or 3 of em, in the end I stuck with the stocker. lol
Mine makes a ridiculous sucking sound, if I let off it goes pffft really loud...fkn POS.
2001 Chevrolet Corvette
The Vette gets em' Wet, it also handles nice too.
LOLz turbo ftw?
wow this is pretty depressing... i want to feel the difference if i put the money into it
Personally, I noticed it ... Might just be the "oh I spent the money I better feel it" mental thing, or it might have actually done something ...
For 50$, you really can't go wrong, and if I recall, American Muscle has a return policy.
If you do decide to do it, make sure to look in the Vendor section, we have a 10/15% discount with them.
--Pacific Green '97 Cobra--
Eibach sportline 1.5" drop, Tokico 8 way adj struts front & QA1 10 way adj rear
Cobra R front/rear sway bars & front upper strut bar, fully adj camber plates, 42# injectors
Vortech V1 s-trim, 80mm MAF, forged piston rods & crank, MAC pro dump w/ off-road H pipe.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tuned at 412hp and 343 lb ft of torque at wheels at 6psi. Best run @ 11.12
is there any difference between one that costs $60 and one thats $179?
I know that normally the cheaper ones don't look as good or as made of plastic even, but the 60$ one above is stainless steel.
Might be some kind of airflow difference, but how hard/expensive can it be to make a straight tubing?
--Pacific Green '97 Cobra--
Eibach sportline 1.5" drop, Tokico 8 way adj struts front & QA1 10 way adj rear
Cobra R front/rear sway bars & front upper strut bar, fully adj camber plates, 42# injectors
Vortech V1 s-trim, 80mm MAF, forged piston rods & crank, MAC pro dump w/ off-road H pipe.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tuned at 412hp and 343 lb ft of torque at wheels at 6psi. Best run @ 11.12
If you notice, the cheaper ones are usually Metal(unless it has a brand name and they feel like raping you.. I.E. steeda). The Plastic ones are the ones to get if you really want to maximize your 2hp gain..
Theoretically the plastic ones should be better for an air intake due to less heat soak on the intake air temp. The time that a particle of air is spending in your CAI is most likely in the range of .3-.1 of a second. The particle more than likely gains more heat from the change in acceleration than from the actual heat transfer from the metal intake.
The reason I stayed with the stocker was because the weakest link to it was the paper filter. The stock tube is designed to flow the proper angles for the intake and the MAF screen(which almost every CAI manufac sees as a blocker) provides laminar airflow for the MAF to get the best reading it can.
Again I did a lot of datalogging with my intakes(never a dyno..but I dont believe in dyno numbers) and found air intake temps to similar(basically ambient) to warrant spending anymore than enough to buy a filter(on an n/a 2v car)
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