need some block advice

greenhornet347 · 08-19-2008, 10:55 PM

i have a 351w block .30 over with cleared for a stroker.....the rotating assy is already put on and together,and turns good but as i torqued the rods down @35 fpt it wont spin.i dont know if its cause the mains arnet torqued down yet and i cant find out cause i was putting on my main studs on the 1st main and they tightend up but as i started torquing those down it seems the threads on the block are stripped....anyone got any advice on what i should do or a machine shop in cc to take a look at it cause i dont think heelicoil would be a good idea..anything helps

**thesource** · 08-19-2008, 11:31 PM

I would hit up Mission Racing on the south side of San Antonio . The do a lot of Windsor engines and did all the machine work on my 408W .

greenhornet347 · 08-19-2008, 11:41 PM

do you think it would be worth tryin to fix should i just go with a new block cause im going to be running 418 with ported afr 205 and some juice and im not so sure that the work being done is gonna hold the power...

**thesource** · 08-20-2008, 09:53 AM

Depends on what block it is and what machine work has been done to it . If you are concerned about it , I would contact them and ask the questions you are concerned about . The block itself is cheap but the machine work will add up quickly .

**Sonic Blue 85** · 08-20-2008, 10:08 AM

Sounds like you have the wrong rod bearings, the caps got switched from rod to rod or the caps are on the rods backwards. I have not seen the main threads stripped out of an iron block, I gess it could be done. I have seen a few head bolt threads with stripped threads most likely because they are open on the botton to the cooling system. How are you installing the studs? Have you tried to install a fatory bolt to make sure it will tighten up without stripping. Also the 351s use 1/2" main and head bolts, 302s use 7/16" main and head studs, make sure the studs you have are 1/2".

Hitman84 · 08-20-2008, 10:29 AM

just a question? should the main caps be torqued into place before the rod caps get torqued down? you could have a good bit of binding going on with the crank if the mains are not torqued first. i have always been told that the mains get torqued, then you check your clearences then the rods get torqued, then you check your rod clearences, turn a couple dozen revolutions and check ALL of your clearences again.

Maybe i am wrong but your rods could be binding keeping you from rotating your crank.

greenhornet347 · 08-20-2008, 12:52 PM

just a question? should the main caps be torqued into place before the rod caps get torqued down? you could have a good bit of binding going on with the crank if the mains are not torqued first. i have always been told that the mains get torqued, then you check your clearences then the rods get torqued, then you check your rod clearences, turn a couple dozen revolutions and check ALL of your clearences again.

Maybe i am wrong but your rods could be binding keeping you from rotating your crank.

thats what my buddy said but i cant find that out cause of the mains...im goin to take it to a machine shop and see what they think or if theres anything they can do...

greenhornet347 · 08-20-2008, 01:05 PM

thanks sonic blue 85 i was using the wrong main studs,and what made me think about it is that i orderd a main support with the studs and the girdle didnt even line up so then i checked the studs and compared them to a 1/2 and nothin close so i snapped....but i will check later today when i get out if i can get the assy to turn....thanks agian

08-19-2008, 10:55 PM	#1
greenhornet347 Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: alice Posts: 227 Trader Rating: (1)	need some block advice i have a 351w block .30 over with cleared for a stroker.....the rotating assy is already put on and together,and turns good but as i torqued the rods down @35 fpt it wont spin.i dont know if its cause the mains arnet torqued down yet and i cant find out cause i was putting on my main studs on the 1st main and they tightend up but as i started torquing those down it seems the threads on the block are stripped....anyone got any advice on what i should do or a machine shop in cc to take a look at it cause i dont think heelicoil would be a good idea..anything helps

08-19-2008, 11:31 PM	#2
thesource LSS Sponsor Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: in a hole building transmissions Posts: 3,495 Trader Rating: (13)	I would hit up Mission Racing on the south side of San Antonio . The do a lot of Windsor engines and did all the machine work on my 408W . __________________ Texas Motorsports Myspace Texas Motorsports Photobucket

08-19-2008, 11:41 PM	#3
greenhornet347 Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: alice Posts: 227 Trader Rating: (1)	block do you think it would be worth tryin to fix should i just go with a new block cause im going to be running 418 with ported afr 205 and some juice and im not so sure that the work being done is gonna hold the power...

08-20-2008, 09:53 AM	#4
thesource LSS Sponsor Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: in a hole building transmissions Posts: 3,495 Trader Rating: (13)	Depends on what block it is and what machine work has been done to it . If you are concerned about it , I would contact them and ask the questions you are concerned about . The block itself is cheap but the machine work will add up quickly . __________________ Texas Motorsports Myspace Texas Motorsports Photobucket

08-20-2008, 10:08 AM	#5
Sonic Blue 85 LSS Sponsor Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: New Braunfels Posts: 393 Trader Rating: (1)	Sounds like you have the wrong rod bearings, the caps got switched from rod to rod or the caps are on the rods backwards. I have not seen the main threads stripped out of an iron block, I gess it could be done. I have seen a few head bolt threads with stripped threads most likely because they are open on the botton to the cooling system. How are you installing the studs? Have you tried to install a fatory bolt to make sure it will tighten up without stripping. Also the 351s use 1/2" main and head bolts, 302s use 7/16" main and head studs, make sure the studs you have are 1/2". __________________ My car is an '85 sonic blue coupe with 302 bored and stroked to 364, Ported Twisted Wedge heads and a BXR intake, A9M ECM with a Tweecer, C4 with trans brake, Hoosier 275/60/15 drag radials, no power adders. The car is still street driven, with a best of 10.21 at 131 mph with a 1.51 60' spinning lightly. With this combo it made a best of 460 hp and 410 lbs of torque at the wheels.

08-20-2008, 10:29 AM	#6
Hitman84 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Galveston County Posts: 98 Trader Rating: (1)	just a question? should the main caps be torqued into place before the rod caps get torqued down? you could have a good bit of binding going on with the crank if the mains are not torqued first. i have always been told that the mains get torqued, then you check your clearences then the rods get torqued, then you check your rod clearences, turn a couple dozen revolutions and check ALL of your clearences again. Maybe i am wrong but your rods could be binding keeping you from rotating your crank. __________________ '84 fox convertible. E7 roller block .030 over with Hyper. pistons and stock stroke for now. E7 heads, Weiand Stealth intake, holley 4777, comp cams magnum 290 cam and springs, and complete MSD ignition. MAC equal length shorty headers to BBK O/R X-pipe to dual chamber flows. Electric fan conversion. '92 silver ponys. Just added, UPR non adjustable upper and lower control arms, Eiback Pro drop springs, MGW short throw shifter, billet overflow tank, and a few other billet accessories.

08-20-2008, 12:52 PM	#7
greenhornet347 Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: alice Posts: 227 Trader Rating: (1)	just a question? should the main caps be torqued into place before the rod caps get torqued down? you could have a good bit of binding going on with the crank if the mains are not torqued first. i have always been told that the mains get torqued, then you check your clearences then the rods get torqued, then you check your rod clearences, turn a couple dozen revolutions and check ALL of your clearences again. Maybe i am wrong but your rods could be binding keeping you from rotating your crank. thats what my buddy said but i cant find that out cause of the mains...im goin to take it to a machine shop and see what they think or if theres anything they can do...

08-20-2008, 01:05 PM	#8
greenhornet347 Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: alice Posts: 227 Trader Rating: (1)	thanks sonic blue 85 i was using the wrong main studs,and what made me think about it is that i orderd a main support with the studs and the girdle didnt even line up so then i checked the studs and compared them to a 1/2 and nothin close so i snapped....but i will check later today when i get out if i can get the assy to turn....thanks agian

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