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#21 | |
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Change always makes Sense (or Cents)
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Quote:
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1 of 472 Year 2005 Mustang GT, Black, Convertible with Black Top, Automatic Transmission, Dark Charcoal/Red Interior.
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#23 |
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Change always makes Sense (or Cents)
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actually want a 427 windsor.
But a budget 289 rebuild, would do for a while
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1 of 472 Year 2005 Mustang GT, Black, Convertible with Black Top, Automatic Transmission, Dark Charcoal/Red Interior.
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#24 |
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Killing is my Business...And Business is Good!
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Call around to see if sonic checking a block will reveal casting issues in water jackets. Also I think there is a way to "x-ray" a block.
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![]() 1988 Mustang LX |
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#25 |
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☆★LSS★☆
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Just out of curiousity have you changed the radiator cap? I know the early cars were usually 12 lb I'd recomend going to a 15 lb. That'll raise the boiling point of your coolant........
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#26 |
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Mama Mia
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might also check to make sure your fan is close enough to the radiator to do its job. If its too far away, it wont pull enough air through the radiator and you will never cool. If you have a fan shroud, your fan blades should be halfway inside the shroud. Mine needed a larger fan spacer to solve this problem, but it did work. Get a feather, and with the car idling, hold the feather near the front of the radiator. If your fan is working you should see the feather being pulled toward the radiator. Try revving the motor to see if it has any effect. If not, your fan is too far away or too small, or you need a shroud.
Also, is the block bored over? If it is bored too much, ie .0060 the block could be too thin to disipate heat. Lastly, as mentioned earlier, check your head gaskets, the water passages should be blocked in front and open at the rear of the gasket, otherwise you wont cool. |
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