overheating engine

keg65 · 07-04-2007, 12:04 PM

In my 65 Mustang I used to have a 289. I had a 4 row radiator, electric fan, aluminum water pump, tried all thermostats.
Running on the highway, normal driving, it would run right around 220 degrees.
and occasionally boil over when stopped.
I've been told that there must be a casting problem in the block causing a blockage or flow problems.
Also been told the problem might have been the heads, 69 302, but i don't think so.

Does anyone know if the block could be a problem? I am wondering if I should get rid of the block and start with a fresh one to use the 289 rotating.
Any ideas?

txlen · 07-04-2007, 12:32 PM

ok..to help ya diagnose it..does it get hot sitting still??...if so then thats a fan/ water pump type of prob or even t-stat, if it gets hot on the road then you have a flow prob, prob radiator or t-stat or such...what i've done on the early cars sometime was make little air dam under the radiator to force the air up thru the rad and see if it changes things.... Len

keg65 · 07-04-2007, 12:49 PM

It was always hot, but when stopped, it would boil over.
All cooling items were new and had been replaced to make sure.

I think now I would run an aluminum radiator and that will keep the temps down, but if there is something wrong with the block casting, then I would rather start with a new block. Thinking thin or thick areas could be a problem in the casting.

**thesource** · 07-04-2007, 12:50 PM

Man it could be a lot of things . How fresh is the engine and how long has it been doing this ?

**thesource** · 07-04-2007, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keg65

It was always hot, but when stopped, it would boil over.
All cooling items were new and had been replaced to make sure.

I think now I would run an aluminum radiator and that will keep the temps down, but if there is something wrong with the block casting, then I would rather start with a new block. Thinking thin or thick areas could be a problem in the casting.

How quick does it over heat ? Does it run cooler in cooler weather or does it not matter ?

keg65 · 07-04-2007, 01:00 PM

It always done this, no other engine problems

It would take about 10 min to boil over, when stopped in the summer.

In the winter it would run the same 220, but not over heat

txlen · 07-04-2007, 01:40 PM

my bet is the rad has a flow prob...you could also try what we do on street rods...a FlowCooler water pump it's got a plate on the back of the water pump to increase flow mostly in the lower rpms...and get a high flow t-stat too..

01stalker · 07-04-2007, 02:28 PM

I have a 65 coupe with a 289 auto, a/s and p/s . I had terrible over heating problems. I added a 4 core radiator from national parts depot, stock water pump, universal 3" fan shroud from summit, and the stock thermostat and a flex fan, then switched to an electric. It was a daily driver in Orlando, FL. I had no problems with it. It would stay right in the middle all day in rush hour traffic with the a/c on. Sounds like something more major, possibly internal. I WAS having similar problems before I did all that work, turned out to be a bad head gasket. BTW, is it still running through the heater core?

**thesource** · 07-04-2007, 03:33 PM

I'd say the radiator as well or the fan is not enough for it . My 94 Gt was doing the same thing and I even installed a bigger brass radiator but did not help . I went to a Fluidyne and a stock 2 speed electric fan and that solved the problem .

keg65 · 07-04-2007, 05:04 PM

tried both electric and engine fan and at the same time.
had a new 4 row radiator.
No heater or A/C
Tried the head gaskets, they were good.
Heads not cracked

**thesource** · 07-04-2007, 06:46 PM

Whats the timing at ? I've seen where the engine is too far retarded and made it run hot . Will the car over heat while sitting still before you go drive it ? Or will it stay about normal before driving it ?

keg65 · 07-04-2007, 06:59 PM

I don't remember, but I know it was right, motor ran really strong. Hoss and I both had our coupes at the same time, had it all adjusted right.
Usually overheating would happen when stuck in traffic. Just the always hot, even when driving.
I just remember someone telling me they thought something was wrong with the casting. The motor will need a rebuild, and if it is possible for the casting to be the problem, I would not use the original 289 block.
The engine is now under a tree at Hoss's house, right in front of where the car sat for 4 years. Just think of the budget build, or wait for the extreme 427 build that I really want

thunderchicken · 07-04-2007, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keg65

I don't remember, but I know it was right, motor ran really strong. Hoss and I both had our coupes at the same time, had it all adjusted right.
Usually overheating would happen when stuck in traffic. Just the always hot, even when driving.
I just remember someone telling me they thought something was wrong with the casting. The motor will need a rebuild, and if it is possible for the casting to be the problem, I would not use the original 289 block.
The engine is now under a tree at Hoss's house, right in front of where the car sat for 4 years. Just think of the budget build, or wait for the extreme 427 build that I really want

I've seen that engine,He was telling me about that one.It's Probably best if you just look for another block,just in case.....

01stalker · 07-04-2007, 07:51 PM

If it's runing through the heater core still and it is clogged that can do it.

Turbofox · 07-04-2007, 11:34 PM

Cooling fan is not putting out enough...

keg65 · 07-05-2007, 03:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turbofox

Cooling fan is not putting out enough...

but even at 60 mph, the engine just wanted to run at 220 degrees. Tried all the different temp thermostats, even tried without, no difference.

Is there anyway to tell if the casting has problems? Ideas??

67stang347 · 07-05-2007, 07:34 AM

Mine also ran on the hot side. The when it got bored 0.30 over the problem even got worse.

txlen · 07-05-2007, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turbofox

Cooling fan is not putting out enough...

cooling fan doesn't do anything above say 35-40 mph....

2k4mk1 · 07-05-2007, 07:59 AM

You probably installed 1 or both head gaskets upside down they are printed with an arrow and frt and if installed incorrectly your car will overheat no matter what as it blocks off the water passage in the rear of the head. Only way to know is pull the heads. I know this from experience. many years ago I did this on my 289 and had this exact issue. Upon install the printing will be up on one side and down on the other.

**bighoss88lx** · 07-05-2007, 07:29 PM

I still think it is a block casting problem. As much as we looked into it and threw parts at it nothing made a difference. It overheated the same no matter what. At the time I wish we had a infared thermometer to measure the temperature difference between the block and the heads and compare both sides of the block as well. There has to be a water jacket inside blocked off.

07-04-2007, 12:04 PM	#1
keg65 Change always makes Sense (or Cents) Join Date: May 2005 Location: NE San Antonio Posts: 1,226 Trader Rating: (0)	overheating engine In my 65 Mustang I used to have a 289. I had a 4 row radiator, electric fan, aluminum water pump, tried all thermostats. Running on the highway, normal driving, it would run right around 220 degrees. and occasionally boil over when stopped. I've been told that there must be a casting problem in the block causing a blockage or flow problems. Also been told the problem might have been the heads, 69 302, but i don't think so. Does anyone know if the block could be a problem? I am wondering if I should get rid of the block and start with a fresh one to use the 289 rotating. Any ideas? __________________ 1 of 472 Year 2005 Mustang GT, Black, Convertible with Black Top, Automatic Transmission, Dark Charcoal/Red Interior.

07-04-2007, 12:50 PM	#4
thesource LSS Sponsor Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: in a hole building transmissions Posts: 3,076 Trader Rating: (12)	Man it could be a lot of things . How fresh is the engine and how long has it been doing this ? __________________ Texas Motorsports Myspace Texas Motorsports Photobucket

07-04-2007, 01:00 PM	#6
keg65 Change always makes Sense (or Cents) Join Date: May 2005 Location: NE San Antonio Posts: 1,226 Trader Rating: (0)	It always done this, no other engine problems It would take about 10 min to boil over, when stopped in the summer. In the winter it would run the same 220, but not over heat __________________ 1 of 472 Year 2005 Mustang GT, Black, Convertible with Black Top, Automatic Transmission, Dark Charcoal/Red Interior.

07-04-2007, 03:33 PM	#9
thesource LSS Sponsor Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: in a hole building transmissions Posts: 3,076 Trader Rating: (12)	I'd say the radiator as well or the fan is not enough for it . My 94 Gt was doing the same thing and I even installed a bigger brass radiator but did not help . I went to a Fluidyne and a stock 2 speed electric fan and that solved the problem . __________________ Texas Motorsports Myspace Texas Motorsports Photobucket

07-04-2007, 05:04 PM	#10
keg65 Change always makes Sense (or Cents) Join Date: May 2005 Location: NE San Antonio Posts: 1,226 Trader Rating: (0)	tried both electric and engine fan and at the same time. had a new 4 row radiator. No heater or A/C Tried the head gaskets, they were good. Heads not cracked __________________ 1 of 472 Year 2005 Mustang GT, Black, Convertible with Black Top, Automatic Transmission, Dark Charcoal/Red Interior.

07-04-2007, 12:32 PM	#2
txlen Jus Workin Away !!! Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 1,795 Trader Rating: (2)	ok..to help ya diagnose it..does it get hot sitting still??...if so then thats a fan/ water pump type of prob or even t-stat, if it gets hot on the road then you have a flow prob, prob radiator or t-stat or such...what i've done on the early cars sometime was make little air dam under the radiator to force the air up thru the rad and see if it changes things.... Len

07-04-2007, 12:49 PM	#3
keg65 Change always makes Sense (or Cents) Join Date: May 2005 Location: NE San Antonio Posts: 1,226 Trader Rating: (0)	It was always hot, but when stopped, it would boil over. All cooling items were new and had been replaced to make sure. I think now I would run an aluminum radiator and that will keep the temps down, but if there is something wrong with the block casting, then I would rather start with a new block. Thinking thin or thick areas could be a problem in the casting.

07-04-2007, 01:40 PM	#7
txlen Jus Workin Away !!! Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 1,795 Trader Rating: (2)	my bet is the rad has a flow prob...you could also try what we do on street rods...a FlowCooler water pump it's got a plate on the back of the water pump to increase flow mostly in the lower rpms...and get a high flow t-stat too..

07-04-2007, 02:28 PM	#8
01stalker Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Harker Hieghts Posts: 288 Trader Rating: (0)	I have a 65 coupe with a 289 auto, a/s and p/s . I had terrible over heating problems. I added a 4 core radiator from national parts depot, stock water pump, universal 3" fan shroud from summit, and the stock thermostat and a flex fan, then switched to an electric. It was a daily driver in Orlando, FL. I had no problems with it. It would stay right in the middle all day in rush hour traffic with the a/c on. Sounds like something more major, possibly internal. I WAS having similar problems before I did all that work, turned out to be a bad head gasket. BTW, is it still running through the heater core?

07-04-2007, 06:46 PM	#11
thesource LSS Sponsor Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: in a hole building transmissions Posts: 3,076 Trader Rating: (12)	Whats the timing at ? I've seen where the engine is too far retarded and made it run hot . Will the car over heat while sitting still before you go drive it ? Or will it stay about normal before driving it ? __________________ Texas Motorsports Myspace Texas Motorsports Photobucket

07-04-2007, 06:59 PM	#12
keg65 Change always makes Sense (or Cents) Join Date: May 2005 Location: NE San Antonio Posts: 1,226 Trader Rating: (0)	I don't remember, but I know it was right, motor ran really strong. Hoss and I both had our coupes at the same time, had it all adjusted right. Usually overheating would happen when stuck in traffic. Just the always hot, even when driving. I just remember someone telling me they thought something was wrong with the casting. The motor will need a rebuild, and if it is possible for the casting to be the problem, I would not use the original 289 block. The engine is now under a tree at Hoss's house, right in front of where the car sat for 4 years. Just think of the budget build, or wait for the extreme 427 build that I really want

07-04-2007, 07:51 PM	#14
01stalker Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Harker Hieghts Posts: 288 Trader Rating: (0)	If it's runing through the heater core still and it is clogged that can do it.

07-04-2007, 11:34 PM	#15
Turbofox Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 52 Trader Rating: (0)	Cooling fan is not putting out enough...

07-05-2007, 07:34 AM	#17
67stang347 Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: Floresville,TX Posts: 52 Trader Rating: (0)	Mine also ran on the hot side. The when it got bored 0.30 over the problem even got worse.

07-05-2007, 07:59 AM	#19
2k4mk1 My name is ED,My mom calls me special,I dont know why? Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: SanAntonio Posts: 6,214 Trader Rating: (2)	You probably installed 1 or both head gaskets upside down they are printed with an arrow and frt and if installed incorrectly your car will overheat no matter what as it blocks off the water passage in the rear of the head. Only way to know is pull the heads. I know this from experience. many years ago I did this on my 289 and had this exact issue. Upon install the printing will be up on one side and down on the other. __________________ 04 Oxford White MACH1,5 SPD with IUP,K&NAircharger Borla Stingers,SLP Catted X pipe,Tri-ax,SCT Flashtune,Max Mtr Spt 4 bolt adj C/C plates, Drilled/Slotted rotors all 4 corners 281 rwhp on Mustang Dyno,306 rwhp on a Dynojet 94 Black Lightning Daily Driver&85GT FACH1 Project under construction

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07-05-2007, 07:29 PM	#20
bighoss88lx Killing is my Business...And Business is Good! Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Elmendorf, Tejas Posts: 5,953 Trader Rating: (1)	I still think it is a block casting problem. As much as we looked into it and threw parts at it nothing made a difference. It overheated the same no matter what. At the time I wish we had a infared thermometer to measure the temperature difference between the block and the heads and compare both sides of the block as well. There has to be a water jacket inside blocked off. __________________ 1988 Mustang LX