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Old 06-18-2008, 09:20 PM   #1
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Question about burnt valve

Ok, so how would a burnt valve or valve's affect an engine?
acceleration, engine temp etc.?
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:28 PM   #2
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so I do not have to type it out for you...

My mechanic says me engine has a "burned valve."... — Yahoo! Autos
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I'm gonna have to double park my dick on her ass to make sure I get a turn.........



Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts.
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:30 PM   #3
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ah, so thats why my compression is shit other than besides the engine being worn out?
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:32 PM   #4
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Nice
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question-about-burnt-valve-dscf0005.jpg  
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Originally Posted by 12second5.0
I'm gonna have to double park my dick on her ass to make sure I get a turn.........



Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts.
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:32 PM   #5
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ur still fucking with that POS engine.. i thought u made up ur mind over the course of 15 or so threads about buying the other motor..
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:33 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by H0SS302 View Post
ur still fucking with that POS engine.. i thought u made up ur mind over the course of 16 or so threads about buying the other motor..
get it right Cody
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I'm gonna have to double park my dick on her ass to make sure I get a turn.........



Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts.
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:34 PM   #7
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Damn my bad jody...again u are right...
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:35 PM   #8
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he will never listen will he
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:36 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan_65Stallion View Post
Ok, so how would a burnt valve or valve's affect an engine?
acceleration, engine temp etc.?
They make the alternator take a crap...
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Originally Posted by 12second5.0
I'm gonna have to double park my dick on her ass to make sure I get a turn.........



Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts.
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96greengt View Post
Nice
damn, well, I bet mine probably look a lot worse.

"Valve burning can also be caused by any condition that makes the engine run hot or elevates combustion temperatures. This includes cooling problems, abnormal combustion like detonation or preignition, loss of exhaust gas recirculation (EGR), retarded ignition timing or lean fuel mixtures."
I wish I would have read this sooner, thats why she's been overheating too, and would of course explain the "pop!" sound it makes sometimes when I give it gas.

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Originally Posted by H0SS302 View Post
ur still fucking with that POS engine.. i thought u made up ur mind over the course of 15 or so threads about buying the other motor..
LOL. I was going to but I don't have the time to go get it from Dean, I told him to sell it, plus, it'd just be sitting in my store room at home.

But when I'm gone, I'm going to have the engine completely machined and bored over .20, I wanted to go .30 but my dad suggested the block would be no good if I ever needed to get it machined again, the walls would be to thin, and it would run hot.
I'm going to have a complete forged bottom end dropped in;crank, connect rods, etc. , which Jody or someone who knows about pushrod motors, I can't find a forged 289 crank, but they have a 302 crank that has a 3.00'' stroke to it, and I was wondering if its a 289 crank listed as a 302?
Once I get the block machined, find a nice hydraulic roller cam(if possible to put in the 289) and some gt-40p heads with some roller rockers on them.
And later on, a paxton s/c like they had on the gt.350's
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:46 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan_65Stallion View Post
damn, well, I bet mine probably look a lot worse.

"Valve burning can also be caused by any condition that makes the engine run hot or elevates combustion temperatures. This includes cooling problems, abnormal combustion like detonation or preignition, loss of exhaust gas recirculation (EGR), retarded ignition timing or lean fuel mixtures."
I wish I would have read this sooner, thats why she's been overheating too, and would of course explain the "pop!" sound it makes sometimes when I give it gas.


LOL. I was going to but I don't have the time to go get it from Dean, I told him to sell it, plus, it'd just be sitting in my store room at home.

But when I'm gone, I'm going to have the engine completely machined and bored over .20, I wanted to go .30 but my dad suggested the block would be no good if I ever needed to get it machined again, the walls would be to thin, and it would run hot.
I'm going to have a complete forged bottom end dropped in;crank, connect rods, etc. , which Jody or someone who knows about pushrod motors, I can't find a forged 289 crank, but they have a 302 crank that has a 3.00'' stroke to it, and I was wondering if its a 289 crank listed as a 302?
Once I get the block machined, find a nice hydraulic roller cam(if possible to put in the 289) and some gt-40p heads with some roller rockers on them.
And later on, a paxton s/c like they had on the gt.350's


ok so instead of getting a ready built motor because ur too lazy to get up off ur ass and go get it... ur gonna spend more money getting ur shit machined.... not a very wise allocation of your money but what do i know.
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:48 PM   #12
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Why not when you are gone just save your money buy a brand new engine and give that bitch some balls....just my .02
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:51 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H0SS302 View Post
ok so instead of getting a ready built motor because ur too lazy to get up off ur ass and go get it... ur gonna spend more money getting ur shit machined.... not a very wise allocation of your money but what do i know.
Um, I'm not to lazy, I get off work at 5:30 and by the time I get home its 7pm.
If you read all the way,
I had reasons;
the motor would just be collecting dust
and I'll build my 289 the exact way I want it and have a forged bottom end block I can s/c and also rev higher than a non-forged block.
I'd rather spend some money and have a better engine in the long run. Just my .02
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:54 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan_65Stallion View Post
Um, I'm not to lazy, I get off work at 5:30 and by the time I get home its 7pm.
If you read all the way,
I had reasons;
the motor would just be collecting dust
and I'll build my 289 the exact way I want it and have a forged bottom end block I can s/c and also rev higher than a non-forged block.
I'd rather spend some money and have a better engine in the long run. Just my .02
lol, well i guess we will see what u do in the end. my money is set on nil...
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Old 06-19-2008, 12:30 PM   #15
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I'll say it again.

GO BUY A GT40P Longblock!

do you really not factor in such things as the cost of gas to drive your heads to a machine shop and the cost of your time? rarely does your price come out as the original quote after they find problems when the heads are apart.
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Old 06-19-2008, 12:59 PM   #16
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so is this thread number 17?
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Old 06-19-2008, 01:06 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95 GTS View Post
I'll say it again.

GO BUY A GT40P Longblock!

do you really not factor in such things as the cost of gas to drive your heads to a machine shop and the cost of your time? rarely does your price come out as the original quote after they find problems when the heads are apart.
I don't want to buy a ready built engine is the thing. I know thats a good block your suggesting but I want to build my 289 bored over, complete forged uppers and lowers, and I'm going to have it be done when I'm gone for training so I'm not concerned about the gas, I'l just give however much it cost to my dad so he can take em.
But, once I find a nice cam I'll either get gt-40p heads or some afr heads, and most likely new, I don't want to mess with used heads.
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Old 06-19-2008, 03:52 PM   #18
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wtf is a forged upper?

I get it so you are going to make your dad front the gas and his time and money.

I dont think there is such a thing as a new gt40p head....

what do you mean find a nice cam? you should buy a cam when you know what heads and intake you will run, not vice versa. Cam is the final decision based off knowing what the other "flowing parts" need
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Last edited by 95 GTS; 06-19-2008 at 03:55 PM.
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Old 06-19-2008, 03:56 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95 GTS View Post
wtf is a forged upper?

I get it so you are going to make your dad front the gas and his time and money.

I dont think there is such a thing as a new gt40p head....

what do you mean find a nice cam? you should buy a cam when you know what heads and intake you will run, not vice versa. Cam is the final decision based off knowing what the other "flowing parts" need
lmao....dont question the great one that goes by the name of RYAN.....i think you just put a whole in each of this thoughts but im sure he will have a great answer for each of your questions.

feel free to review, your just wasting your breathe
Fustrating
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Old 06-19-2008, 03:59 PM   #20
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ok that was harsh, but you are so damn frustrating
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