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#21 |
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I found quarter panels from Tony D. Branda for only $89, wonder if the cheaper price also means cheaper quality. If they were to be the same quality, then I might just replace both sides, and not have to worry about the hidden rust coming back through. This will be the whole rear of the car, the taillight panel, and rear crossmember too. Looks like almost all sheetmetal will be replaced, I think I will keep the roof and trunk
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#22 |
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Change always makes Sense (or Cents)
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Here are a few items I think will go nicely in or on the pile
Wheels will be 17 x 11 at the rear and 17x 8 or 9.5 in the front. Gotta mini tub and narrow the rear, and use a narrow crossmember on the Mustang II front. Still thinking that full frame will be better than just trying to make it all work with the stock rusted parts |
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#23 |
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LSS Sponsor
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beleive me when i say you have no idea what your getting into if you want to redo the full frame..
__________________
PSI Performance Solutions 210-655-6546 10811 nacogdoches road San Antonio TX 78217 cmr tuners and full service performance shop. |
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#24 |
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I agree, I have no idea, but I think I will have to figure something out in order to salvage this car. The main reason for saying a full frame is the rust. But, since I plan on a narrow rear with 4 link, and a Mustang II front end with nothing but rust in the middle, why not tie it together with a new frame and some new crossmembers.
I know it will not be just so easy, but not impossible... Oh, thanks for the words of encouragment ![]() wanna help? |
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#25 |
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Change always makes Sense (or Cents)
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#26 |
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Change always makes Sense (or Cents)
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#27 | |
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Killing is my Business...And Business is Good!
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Quote:
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![]() 1988 Mustang LX |
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#29 |
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hey I think you can restore aany thing if you want to but i love the i dea of restomoding the 65 I have simmilar plans for my 65 so i say go for it althought i think when have both finished our projects yours will beat mine at the track. Jason
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#30 |
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Registered User
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and if you want to do front disc brakes there is a guiy in waco named gary that works at texasmustang him and a buddy make front disc brakes for the old mustangs from the old granada they are more beaffier and are made of all ford parts they cost about 895. for the front you can reach him at 1-800-527-1588 ask for gary and tellhim jason sent you
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#31 |
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cool, I hope my plans get to work out.
Mine seem quite extreme, you know cutting up a classic. But with all the rust and damage, and it is only a coupe, original 289 auto. I think I'm actually saving it. I do want to do it right this time, so it will take longer and more money, but hopefully it will last. |
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#32 | |
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LSS Sponsor
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only fo ra v-8 car.
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putting you well over the 1100 dollar cost for the SSbc kit meant for a 6 cylinder car.
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PSI Performance Solutions 210-655-6546 10811 nacogdoches road San Antonio TX 78217 cmr tuners and full service performance shop. Last edited by psiperformance; 06-14-2007 at 11:14 AM. |
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#33 | |
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Change always makes Sense (or Cents)
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Quote:
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#35 |
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Change always makes Sense (or Cents)
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I read there were problems with the Granada front spindles.
That they work, but you could get bumpsteer from the different tierod locations. I think I would do something like that bolt on plate to put cobra brakes instead. Though again, for me this would be a install onto a Mustang II front clip. |
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#36 |
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LSS Sponsor
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fixed it .. i think it was obvious i meant six .. if you start with a six banger then you have to first convert to v-8 steeering and links and box before you can use the granada stuff.
by the time you pay for all that you actualy spend MORE then if you bought the ssbc disc brake conversion kit for the six cylinder. you also dont get the proper disc master cylinder when you do the granada discs by themselfs wich = vague pedal feel. the ssbc kit is complete with master and booster if you want power brakes. the mustang 2 front end kits use totaly different spindles and all come with disc brakes of there own anyway. and convert the car to rack and pinnion its simply cheaper to do a m-2 kit then it is to swap to discs and then buy the 8 cylinder stuff and then buy the stock type rebuilt controll arms etc. if you do the math and plan to upgrade the front suspension with new bushings controll arms brakes etc its just plain cheaper to do the mustang 2 kit and you get rack and pinion steering out of it for free instead of the 1000 dollar cost to convert to rack and pinnion with the stock suspension. here is a good exmaple of whats involved in the m2 kit some pics of us installing it on our shop 66 we are building 8urls1/1966 mustang - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
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PSI Performance Solutions 210-655-6546 10811 nacogdoches road San Antonio TX 78217 cmr tuners and full service performance shop. Last edited by psiperformance; 06-14-2007 at 12:44 PM. |
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#39 |
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Change always makes Sense (or Cents)
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That's the one I was looking at, but I want it with a narrow front track.
I want wider tires in front, I had 8.5" before, but they stuck out a bit. I want 9.5" and under the fender. Again with the full frame, because the passenger side looks bent, from a wreck. So moving the front frame rails in a bit shouldn't be a problem. I just need to check what tracks are available and get one 3 or 4 inches less than stock. I'll have to do some calculations and measuring to find out how much. need to get some metal and get started ![]() |
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#40 |
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Change always makes Sense (or Cents)
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the problem I was thinking about with a narrow front track, is the rack and pinion. I know the tie rods need to be the same length as the suspension. So to just narrow the track, suspension would just be closer together, but then the rack would be too wide. I couldn't just shorten the tie rod ends, then I would get some crazy bump steer.
So Now I was thinking, couldn't I just use a rack from a narrower car, anything with a manual steering. I know more converting of parts, what else would I run into? Tie rod ends that would match the spindle and thread onto the tierods, hmm. Just thinking |
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