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Old 06-18-2008, 09:06 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Bigdrumma22 View Post
Yeah, but wouldn't you rather have overkilled protection than an overKILLED engine? I know the test they did isn't exactly how the inside of an engine works, but from a protection standpoint, I'd rather have the best I can get. I'm going to try it next change and see if it helps on mileage for sure because I've been wanting to try it, this thread just further convinced me with another reason to try it. I've got almost 75k on the ticker.
I have a 5.0 that was maintained by my brother in it's early life( a poor college student ) He ran the piss out of it every time he was in it. Completely ran it out of water until the engine quit. ( Fixed the lower radiator hose,added water and drove it home) I tore the engine down when I bought it at 145,000. I torque plate honed the cylinders ( only had a half thousandths of cylinder wear ) Crank was perfect and did not need to be turned. This was all done with using conventional engine oil. Valvoline 10w40 to be exact. Sometimes he went almost 10,000 miles between oil changes. The machinist (well known in the San Antonio racing world ) asked me what the hell oil did I use to keep this engine in such good shape. So yes, I am gonna have to say from experience ( I also am an auto technician by trade ) that RP is overkill for the majority. If it makes you feel good to say you bought Royal Purple to make your engine last 200,000 miles then by all means do so. I just like to keep more money in my pocket...........
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I'd still PIITB......... tape or not!





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Old 06-18-2008, 09:07 PM   #22
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I can vouch for the improved gas mileage, I gained like 10-15 miles a tank when I first put it in, and now I have around 3500-4000 k miles on that oil now.

But another factor is cuz I got a case of 5W20 for 35 bucks.... so I win !!
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I'm gonna have to double park my dick on her ass to make sure I get a turn.........



Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts.
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:08 PM   #23
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and who paid for this test not all the oil companies were in it. I agree unless you have a high powered built engine why spend 7bucks a quart just change your oil every 3000 and your good. I can see using the expensive stuff on a lemans or nascar engines or a drag car thats going to be used under extreme conditions.
I agree 100%...........
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I'd still PIITB......... tape or not!





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Old 06-18-2008, 09:14 PM   #24
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Also to add ,one of the vehicles I own that uses Motorcraft 5w20 (has 136,000 miles on it ) Half of it's life has a 30ft travel trailer hooked to it or some other sort of trailer. That i guarantee you is more load than again, the majority of you will ever see............
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I'd still PIITB......... tape or not!





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Old 06-18-2008, 09:19 PM   #25
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The page said they walked into an auto parts store (obviously not in the states) and bought a single quart of all they had stocked.

But BG has the same machine and tested it with oils when I worked at the dealer and then added MOA to it and it beat out all Motorcraft oils.
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I'm gonna have to double park my dick on her ass to make sure I get a turn.........



Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts.
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:27 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by 96greengt View Post
The page said they walked into an auto parts store (obviously not in the states) and bought a single quart of all they had stocked.

But BG has the same machine and tested it with oils when I worked at the dealer and then added MOA to it and it beat out all Motorcraft oils.
Only place I ever have seen Motul is in motorcycle shops.........
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I'd still PIITB......... tape or not!





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Old 06-18-2008, 09:30 PM   #27
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Damn Canadians I guess....
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Originally Posted by 12second5.0
I'm gonna have to double park my dick on her ass to make sure I get a turn.........



Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts.
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:43 PM   #28
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Old 06-19-2008, 01:27 AM   #29
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Damn Canadians I guess....

Take off you hoser

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Old 06-19-2008, 06:26 PM   #30
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Damn Canadians....
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Originally Posted by 12second5.0
I'm gonna have to double park my dick on her ass to make sure I get a turn.........



Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts.
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Old 06-19-2008, 07:27 PM   #31
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... for the record ... my poor cars (or pickup) goes about 10,000 or 15,000 miles before I change the oil. I swap out my filter every 3,000 to 5,000 miles, but I DO NOT change my oil as often as I should ...

With that said ...

The 150,000 miles on my pickup with plain ol' Mobil 1 ($4.50/qt) is doing fine.

I've only had the Miata for a couple years; but it gets the same abuse as Big Red does ...

Knowing that I don't treat them as well as I should ... I cough up the additional couple bucks to give them a full synthetic oil.
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Old 06-19-2008, 09:00 PM   #32
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... for the record ... my poor cars (or pickup) goes about 10,000 or 15,000 miles before I change the oil. I swap out my filter every 3,000 to 5,000 miles, but I DO NOT change my oil as often as I should ...

With that said ...

The 150,000 miles on my pickup with plain ol' Mobil 1 ($4.50/qt) is doing fine.

I've only had the Miata for a couple years; but it gets the same abuse as Big Red does ...

Knowing that I don't treat them as well as I should ... I cough up the additional couple bucks to give them a full synthetic oil.
And is the purpose of a synthetic... glad someone understands
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Old 06-24-2008, 02:36 PM   #33
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And is the purpose of a synthetic... glad someone understands
LOL! It makes me feel better about the abuse they endure ...
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Old 06-29-2008, 04:53 PM   #34
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Talking

Well I'm making the switch today... just got back from advance to pick up the new lifeblood. $7.28/quart for Royal Purple vs. $6.48/quart for Mobil 1. And I went ahead and decided to try out the K&N $13.88 filter vs. the Mobil 1 $9.88 filter I normally use. All together was $64 with some shop towels. I'll be installing these performance parts a lil' later as the sun goes down...HAHA. Now the test to see if my mpg actually goes up any...???
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Old 07-02-2008, 02:23 AM   #35
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What about Lucas Oil? Don't they make an engine oil? Has anyone used or heard anything about it?
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Old 07-02-2008, 06:40 AM   #36
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43K on my MACH which reguarly sees 7K+ rpm and has never had anything other than 5w20 Motorcraft oil (semi syn) in it chgd every 3K miles.
7.50 x 6qts is 45 plus filter means 50 oil chg. I can do 3 for that price. I am like Larry yall spend away Ill keep my money.

Cars got by for alot of years before we came up with synthetic oils......


Wonder what oil Bill Elliot was running back in the day when he was the first to go over 200 in a stock car....pretty sure it was dino lube of some sort.
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Old 07-02-2008, 01:34 PM   #37
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I ran 5-30 RP in my old 98 F150 and picked up about 1.5 mpg over regular old 5-30 oil .
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Old 07-03-2008, 06:47 AM   #38
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I ran 5-30 RP in my old 98 F150 and picked up about 1.5 mpg over regular old 5-30 oil .
That doesnt come close to the amount of money spent on the oil vs the amount saved on gas. Still cheaper to run regular oil. My L has 382k and has done it all on dino lube.
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Old 07-03-2008, 07:11 AM   #39
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43K on my MACH which reguarly sees 7K+ rpm and has never had anything other than 5w20 Motorcraft oil (semi syn) in it chgd every 3K miles.
7.50 x 6qts is 45 plus filter means 50 oil chg. I can do 3 for that price. I am like Larry yall spend away Ill keep my money.

Cars got by for alot of years before we came up with synthetic oils......


Wonder what oil Bill Elliot was running back in the day when he was the first to go over 200 in a stock car....pretty sure it was dino lube of some sort.
preach on my friend :
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Old 07-03-2008, 07:21 AM   #40
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7.28 a quart!! that why i go to wal-mart and buy a 5 quart container of motorcraft oil for like 11-12 bucks and then only change it every 4k on the wife's escape.
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