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Old 04-23-2008, 03:13 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by 95 GTS View Post
Those cams must suck. I have seen some real gains on a bone stock GT when vt stage 2s were added.

I would expect a 25rwhp gain with VTstage 2s
Yeah, I think they were pretty mild... never seen anyone on hear mention anything other than VT...
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Old 04-23-2008, 09:59 PM   #42
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VT is suggested simply due to design and duration, along with the LSA of them, but the after market competition has gotten hip and have a whole new batch of 2V N/A cams out there.
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Old 04-24-2008, 09:02 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by 96greengt View Post
VT is suggested simply due to design and duration, along with the LSA of them, but the after market competition has gotten hip and have a whole new batch of 2V N/A cams out there.
No debating here, but what is LSA... don't know that one yet. And are you biased to VT or is there another out there that you would try if you could?
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Old 04-24-2008, 09:07 PM   #44
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LSA is Lobe Separation Angle.
Most mod cams are on a 112-116* LSA, but now the newer designs are getting better with 108-110*.

I was always partial to VT cams cuz they were designed by a Mustang 4.6 guy and wanted better performing parts. I posted a link somewhere on the HiTech cams, which I like even better now.

I may ditch mine and try new ones. I also installed a set of Crower stage 2 cams (which I hated forever) on a almost stock 03 GT and all he had was CAI, TB, plenum, 3 inch over kill (no cats) exhaust and dumped and he made 271/290.

Those were on a 109* LSA too.

What did yours make again??? 270????
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Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts.
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Old 04-24-2008, 09:21 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by 96greengt View Post
LSA is Lobe Separation Angle.
Most mod cams are on a 112-116* LSA, but now the newer designs are getting better with 108-110*.

I was always partial to VT cams cuz they were designed by a Mustang 4.6 guy and wanted better performing parts. I posted a link somewhere on the HiTech cams, which I like even better now.

I may ditch mine and try new ones. I also installed a set of Crower stage 2 cams (which I hated forever) on a almost stock 03 GT and all he had was CAI, TB, plenum, 3 inch over kill (no cats) exhaust and dumped and he made 271/290.

Those were on a 109* LSA too.

What did yours make again??? 270????
On PSI's dyno, yeah it made 271hp/306tq on the last coolest run. All others when it was warmer were about 265hp/300tq. Do you have a suggestion? I may do it in the future, but not anytime soon.
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Old 04-24-2008, 09:45 PM   #46
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As you are aware, to mod a mod motor is not cheap, in either parts or labor. You will benefit from a set of n/a cams mostly.
May get you closer to 280-290, but to reach 300+ you need compression, upgraded fuel system, and possibly some port work will help out.
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Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts.
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Old 04-24-2008, 09:58 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by 96greengt View Post
As you are aware, to mod a mod motor is not cheap, in either parts or labor. You will benefit from a set of n/a cams mostly.
May get you closer to 280-290, but to reach 300+ you need compression, upgraded fuel system, and possibly some port work will help out.
What do you mean "mostly"? Like mentioned, IF I ever get to that, it will be a while, or when the engine finally needs to be rebuilt... if I still have her by then....
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Old 04-24-2008, 10:00 PM   #48
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Cuz you have air in and air out (minus a better intake) but for your mods, the stock is fine, but the cams will compliment your current mods.
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Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts.
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Old 04-26-2008, 10:44 AM   #49
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Question

So after about a week of it driving fine after the tune, it still popped a P0153 and P1000 last night. Any ideas?
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Old 04-26-2008, 11:17 AM   #50
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Sounds like you may need the tune looked at. Or a bad o2.
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Old 04-26-2008, 12:39 PM   #51
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I saw a rerun of horsepower tv this weekend where they added crane z-cams to an 02 GT just like mine except I think everything else was stock except catback and CAI. It only picked up like 5-10 rwhp,
Those guys install what ever their advertisers pay them to promote . Its nothing more than the flavor of the week .

I have learned over the years that getting a custom ground camshaft or in this case (camshafts) is the way to go for the best gains and drivability .
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Old 04-26-2008, 01:44 PM   #52
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cats and i bet your 02 is done.

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So after about a week of it driving fine after the tune, it still popped a P0153 and P1000 last night. Any ideas?
Thats not a lean code its a slow 02 response bank 2 front 02 code .. its a generic obd2 code .. OBD-II Trouble Code: P0153 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank2, Sensor1)

Lethal may want to try to sell you you need to have it retuned or your tune looked at but slow 02 response is not a tune issue its a sensor issue.

That code means that the 02 on the right bank in the front is reacting slowly to changes made by the ecu to the air fuel mixture during the ecus o2 sensor test cycle.

you need to replace the bank 2 front 02 sensor and inspect the wires to it to make sure they are in good condition.

if you ever want to look up obd2 codes just go to OBD-II Trouble Codes - OBD-II DTC Trouble Codes Repair Help Site

And the p1000 is normal for any ford vehicle with a custom tune if you have the rear 02s turned off wich we did for you because of your busted cats however it doesnt cause a check engine light its the other code that is lighting your cel.

That code is simply telling you that the obd-2 self test on the rear 02s did not complete nothing more. < because we turned them off >

Your cats are also dying.. i told you that when you were on the dyno.

Remember the roten egg smell for the first few few pulls on the dyno ?


Remember it was 18-1 at cruise when it came in its around 14.5 now wich is right where you should be.
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Old 04-26-2008, 04:54 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by psiperformance View Post
Thats not a lean code its a slow 02 response bank 2 front 02 code .. its a generic obd2 code .. OBD-II Trouble Code: P0153 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank2, Sensor1)

Lethal may want to try to sell you you need to have it retuned or your tune looked at but slow 02 response is not a tune issue its a sensor issue.

That code means that the 02 on the right bank in the front is reacting slowly to changes made by the ecu to the air fuel mixture during the ecus o2 sensor test cycle.

you need to replace the bank 2 front 02 sensor and inspect the wires to it to make sure they are in good condition.

if you ever want to look up obd2 codes just go to OBD-II Trouble Codes - OBD-II DTC Trouble Codes Repair Help Site

And the p1000 is normal for any ford vehicle with a custom tune if you have the rear 02s turned off wich we did for you because of your busted cats however it doesnt cause a check engine light its the other code that is lighting your cel.

That code is simply telling you that the obd-2 self test on the rear 02s did not complete nothing more. < because we turned them off >

Your cats are also dying.. i told you that when you were on the dyno.

Remember the roten egg smell for the first few few pulls on the dyno ?


Remember it was 18-1 at cruise when it came in its around 14.5 now wich is right where you should be.
Yeah, I know what the codes were, just not so sure on the cause, but I'm guessing the o2's might be shot. They were brand new installed at ANR when they installed the headers. I also don't think it needs a retune because it drove great and still drives fine. So did running it lean those few weeks cause the sensor to go bad along with the cats? I do remember the smell and you mentioning it, but I didn't think cats could go bad in just 3 weeks.
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Old 04-26-2008, 04:58 PM   #54
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02 sensors have a tendency to learn lean and rich conditions which lead to slow/lazy readings and ultimately failed sensors. .
As I mentioned on the first page.
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Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts.
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Old 04-26-2008, 05:01 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psiperformance View Post
Thats not a lean code its a slow 02 response bank 2 front 02 code .. its a generic obd2 code .. OBD-II Trouble Code: P0153 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank2, Sensor1)

Lethal may want to try to sell you you need to have it retuned or your tune looked at but slow 02 response is not a tune issue its a sensor issue.

That code means that the 02 on the right bank in the front is reacting slowly to changes made by the ecu to the air fuel mixture during the ecus o2 sensor test cycle.

you need to replace the bank 2 front 02 sensor and inspect the wires to it to make sure they are in good condition.

if you ever want to look up obd2 codes just go to OBD-II Trouble Codes - OBD-II DTC Trouble Codes Repair Help Site

And the p1000 is normal for any ford vehicle with a custom tune if you have the rear 02s turned off wich we did for you because of your busted cats however it doesnt cause a check engine light its the other code that is lighting your cel.

That code is simply telling you that the obd-2 self test on the rear 02s did not complete nothing more. < because we turned them off >

Your cats are also dying.. i told you that when you were on the dyno.

Remember the roten egg smell for the first few few pulls on the dyno ?


Remember it was 18-1 at cruise when it came in its around 14.5 now wich is right where you should be.
well put, i was just about to jump in about the p1000... that's nothing but a readiness code... however dean, i thought when you turned them off, it just completely shut them off?? i've never had a car w/ disabled o2's throw a p1000 that i recall... my honest guess is that some of the other sensors aren't ready yet... i'd run a readiness check on it, MAC tools sells a little tiny obd2 tool for like $80 that pulls readiness status and codes and clears codes...
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Old 04-26-2008, 05:09 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by 96greengt View Post
As I mentioned on the first page.
So the brand new o2's or at least one of them is shot and needs to be replaced?
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Old 04-26-2008, 05:10 PM   #57
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before replacing a brand new o2, i'd prope it with a labscope and watch the wave forms, that will tell you for sure, but it's possible you just got a bad one, it happens from time to time
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Old 04-26-2008, 05:29 PM   #58
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Yeah, I know what the codes were, just not so sure on the cause, but I'm guessing the o2's might be shot. They were brand new installed at ANR when they installed the headers. I also don't think it needs a retune because it drove great and still drives fine. So did running it lean those few weeks cause the sensor to go bad along with the cats? I do remember the smell and you mentioning it, but I didn't think cats could go bad in just 3 weeks.

You need some one who can datalog the car. With SCT or anything else.
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Old 04-26-2008, 08:13 PM   #59
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So the brand new o2's or at least one of them is shot and needs to be replaced?
Possibility, but your cats are made of stainless steel, not the honey comb of stock OEM cats.
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before replacing a brand new o2, i'd prope it with a labscope and watch the wave forms, that will tell you for sure, but it's possible you just got a bad one, it happens from time to time
A lab scope will only show you the pattern of the 02, (you can get the same readings from a scanner) and all it shows is what the 02 is doing, you have to be able to interpret the other live data as to what causes the 02 to be erratic. Age is one thing, but new 02's failing can be the result of other or previous problems.
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You need some one who can datalog the car. With SCT or anything else.
Does your handheld you have have that ability? Otherwise, you may need your tuner to read it for you.
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Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts.
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Old 04-26-2008, 08:30 PM   #60
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Possibility, but your cats are made of stainless steel, not the honey comb of stock OEM cats.

A lab scope will only show you the pattern of the 02, (you can get the same readings from a scanner) and all it shows is what the 02 is doing, you have to be able to interpret the other live data as to what causes the 02 to be erratic. Age is one thing, but new 02's failing can be the result of other or previous problems.

Does your handheld you have have that ability? Otherwise, you may need your tuner to read it for you.
What do you mean about the cats? Does that mean they're more likely to get damaged or less?? I would have no clue about the lab scope, would definitely need someone to read it for me. And no, I'm pretty sure my crappy handheld which I only use for code reading now doesn't datalog... not positive though.
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