Short Throw Shifter Install

**bighoss88lx** · 07-01-2006, 09:19 PM

Short Throw Shifter Install
Author: BIGHOSS88LX

This shifter install is preformed on a 88 Mustang but is basically the same on all 79-04 manual transmission Mustangs with the T-5, T-45, or the TR-3650. This install is a very basic modification that can be preformed by anyone with little mechanical skills and knowledge on the 90-04 models. Pre-90 Mustangs require the removal of the center console to gain access to the two rear-most upper shifter boot bolts. The removal of the center console can be tedious and is recommended you have sufficient knowledge of its removal and install. I will have a quick description of the console removal so we can get to removing and installing the shifter in detail. Also I am removing an aftermarket shifter but the removal of the stock shifter is identical.

Tools needed:
Ratchet
Sockets
Phillips Screwdriver
T-25 Torx
Pry Bar or Long flat head screwdriver
Hammer
Gasket scraper
RTV Gasket Maker
Blue Locktite

87-89 Mustang Console Removal Quick Rundown:
Push front seats all the way foreward so you can see the oval shaped plugs on both sides of the rear part of the console below the armrest. Remove the plugs and there will be 2-8mm bolts on each side. Remove those and pull the arm rest off. That will expose two Phillips screws on the back part of the top of the console and removing the shifter bezel will expose two more screws. To remove the shifter bezel unscrew the shifter knob and remove it. Pop the shifter bezel off and the shifter boot should come with it. Now remove the other two screws and lift the console top off and unplug the lighter and light connection under it. If you have power mirrors you will unplug the switch there also. Now you must open the glove box to expose the two screws holding the right side of the lower part of the console to the dash. Remove those. Remove the lower dash below the steering wheel. There are two torx screws at the bottom to remove. Once you have that out of the way that will expose the two Phillips screws holding the left side of the lower part of the console to the dash. Remove those. Then there are 2 more 8mm bolts at the rear part of the lower console holding it to the floor. Get those out. Then you must remove the HVAC control trim and remove the radio. After all that you should be able to remove the lower part of the console and have access to the rear most bolts on the upper shifter boot. Now for the easy part……

1. Remove the shift knob by unscrewing it from the shifter handle. Remove the shifter trim bezel and boot. If you must remove the console to gain access to the rear upper shifter boot bolts, remove the console now as outlined above.

2.Using an 8mm socket remove the upper shifter boot from the floor. There are 4 bolts. You may have to remove the shifter handle to slide it off. If so remove the 2 bolts holding the shifter handle on then slide the boot off to expose the shifter base.

3. Remove the 4 bolts holding the shifter to the transmission.

4. If you’re lucky you can just use moderate upward pressure to remove the shifter base from the transmission, but that is hardly the case as they are usually stuck fairly good. There are two other forceful methods of getting the base to break free. The first that I have had little luck with is to re-install the handle and knob and do a mad 1-2 power shift and sometimes that will break it free. If not the last method will take care of it. Raise the car and support it with stands. Take a long screwdriver or pry bar and position it on the bottom of the shifter base under the car and strike the screwdriver or pry bar with a hammer until it breaks free.

5. Now once you have the shifter base removed you can scrape the old gasket material off the transmission and be careful not to get any inside. Remove any transmission fluid that may be on there so the RTV will stick correctly. Also make sure the plastic bushing that the end of the shifter rides on in the transmission is in the hole that the end of the shifter goes into the transmission and is in good condition. If it needs replacing its time to do so now and if yours is old it’s a cheap preventative maintenance item.

6. Apply a thin coat or your favorite RTV on the transmission where the shifter mounts and spread it with your finger so its applied evenly.

7. Now set your new shifter onto the transmission and make sure the end goes into the hole in the shifter block of the transmission where that plastic bushing is. Your shifter should have came with new longer than stock mounting bolts. Apply a small amount of lock tite to them and screw them in. The lock tite will keep them from ever backing out or the bolts from siezeing up in the transmission. Tighten down bolts fairly tight, but not tight enough where you bust a testicle doing so.

8. Install the shifter handle temporarily. Now you must adjust the shifter stops on the new shifter. This is how I do it but you may want to read the adjustment procedure from your shifter manufacturer.

Back off the stop bolts so that the shifter moves freely into all gears.

Place the shifter in third gear. Push forward firmly on the lever while turning the stop bolt in by hand until it contacts the shift lever. Once the stop bolt contacts the shift lever, back off the bolt 1/6 turn, until there is a small air gap (about .010") between the shift lever and the stop, while still applying pressure to the lever. Pushing on the lever takes all of the slack or play out of the linkage,ensuring you get the proper adjustment.
Hold the bolt with a wrench while tightening the jam nut against the shifter tower with another wrench.

Double-check the space between the shift lever and the stop bolt. When you push very hard on the shift lever it should barely contact the stop bolt, but when you let go of the lever it should not touch the bolt, but instead have a small air gap between them.

Place the shifter in second gear and adjust the other stop bolt as outlined above.

Shift the shifter through all gears and double check the stop clearance in each gear. The shifter must be able to shift freely into all gears without interference from the stop bolts.

Stops that are set too close to the shift lever may prevent the gears fully engaging, causing serious damage to the transmission. The stop bolts are there to prevent the lever from being over -extended. They should not be engaged during normal operation. When in doubt, leave a little extra space between the lever and the stop bolt.

9. Now that you have the shifter stops properly adjusted there is usually a boot that goes over the shifter assembly that the manufacturer supplies that you will install now. You will need to remove the shifter handle though to install it.

10. Now you can install the upper shifter boot with the 4 bolts you removed from the floor. Also you can install the shifter handle this time permanently.

11. Install the shift boot, bezel, and knob. If you have a console to install do it now and that will finish up this install.

The author believes the above information to be true and accurate, however it is strictly for educational purposes only. Neither Lonestarstangs.com nor the author can be held liable in any manner for consequential damages occurring from the use of said information.

timpryor · 07-19-2006, 02:14 AM

nice writeup, however if you have a 3650 don't use the shiftstops as the tranny has them built in

tollebuilt · 07-30-2006, 11:51 AM

How much do you want for the blue shifter you pulled out?

2k4mk1 · 07-31-2006, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timpryor

nice writeup, however if you have a 3650 don't use the shiftstops as the tranny has them built in

True ther built in BUT run the stops anyway as they are weak. Ive got my stops in place............... Seen pepole without umbust the internal stops by hitting um to hard when powershifting.

timpryor · 08-02-2006, 09:10 PM

oh, i was just going by what the MGW install paper said.

acspony · 08-03-2006, 08:57 PM

Great install pictures, I just received my MGW and had been using your directions to take out my console (I've got an '89 LX). I can't remove the screws though in the glove box and on the driver's side holding the console to the dash. I've got a combo wrench to get the dust boot bolts off but it feels like one of the clips has come loose so now the bolt just spins... I've tried PB Blaster on the screws and everything I can think of to take them out w/o stripping them. Any tips on the install? It looks pretty straightforward and I understand the steps just fine, my car is just fighting me every step of the way

Thanks in advance,
~A.C.

**bighoss88lx** · 08-04-2006, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by acspony

Great install pictures, I just received my MGW and had been using your directions to take out my console (I've got an '89 LX). I can't remove the screws though in the glove box and on the driver's side holding the console to the dash. I've got a combo wrench to get the dust boot bolts off but it feels like one of the clips has come loose so now the bolt just spins... I've tried PB Blaster on the screws and everything I can think of to take them out w/o stripping them. Any tips on the install? It looks pretty straightforward and I understand the steps just fine, my car is just fighting me every step of the way

Thanks in advance,
~A.C.

The screws holding the console to the dash should be a 7 or 8mm with a T-25 torx in the center. As far as the bolts holding the dust boot on, you may have to pry up on the one that just spins while you turn it. The threads in those clips are good about stripping out. If that dosent work you may just have to cut the bolt to get it apart and get a new bolt and clip. Hope that helps.

acspony · 08-04-2006, 05:00 PM

The screws under the glove box to remove it were torx and I got those out fine. The ones holding the console to the dash are phillips and they do not want to budge, even after some PB Blaster. I've going to try a dremel to make a slot so I can use a flathead. I also might use it to cut the console to get access to the front dust boot bolts. I'm pretty sure the shifter trim would cover the cut.

Thanks for the help, much appreciated

John#21 · 08-04-2006, 05:14 PM

thats what we like to see and hear! Welcome aboard also!

acspony · 08-04-2006, 05:17 PM

Thanks for the welcome, gotta attack the problems from all different angles, ya know?

**bighoss88lx** · 08-04-2006, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by acspony

The screws under the glove box to remove it were torx and I got those out fine. The ones holding the console to the dash are phillips and they do not want to budge, even after some PB Blaster. I've going to try a dremel to make a slot so I can use a flathead. I also might use it to cut the console to get access to the front dust boot bolts. I'm pretty sure the shifter trim would cover the cut.

Thanks for the help, much appreciated

Ford and there dreaded thread-locker. The ones that hold the console to the dash have thread-lock on them. They can be a bear to get out. You have to have a real good #2 phillips screwdriver with a good grip. Put all of your weight into the screwdriver and twist it to the left as hard as you can. If it strips out you will have to cut a slot in it with your dremel and use a #3 flathead screwdriver to get it loose.

acspony · 08-04-2006, 09:47 PM

Yeah, I've been leaning into the phillips and it hasn't completely stripped but it's getting there. What bugged me is that the first screw came out with no problems, just like all the other ones until this point. I think the dremel is my best bet.

acspony · 08-06-2006, 11:37 AM

Thanks for all the help guys, with the help of the dremel and a friend I got the MGW installed last night. Nice piece

SiLv3R_4point6 · 10-06-2006, 07:56 PM

um... I didn't put any RTV gasket maker on my tri-ax install. Is that why its leaking tranny fluid everywhere? :stupid question: Its been like that for over a yr. DAMNIT!!!!!!111 Imma take care of that tommorrow! The person I bought it from installed it. I figured he knew what he was doing. No wonder when I took it off about a month ago it was covered in oil. I hope my tranny isnt screwed.

**bighoss88lx** · 10-06-2006, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SiLv3R_4point6

um... I didn't put any RTV gasket maker on my tri-ax install. Is that why its leaking tranny fluid everywhere? :stupid question: Its been like that for over a yr. DAMNIT!!!!!!111 Imma take care of that tommorrow! The person I bought it from installed it. I figured he knew what he was doing. No wonder when I took it off about a month ago it was covered in oil. I hope my tranny isnt screwed.

Yes it will leak with no RTV. Also you better check your fluid level or better yet just drain it and fill with new fluid to proper amount.

SiLv3R_4point6 · 10-06-2006, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bighoss88lx

Yes it will leak with no RTV. Also you better check your fluid level or better yet just drain it and fill with new fluid to proper amount.

Yeah thats what I was doing about a month ago. I got under there to do a mid pipe swap and noticed trans fluid all over the tranny. wasn't sure where it was comin from. So i decided to change it. When I took the cover off, the top of the shifter was all oilly. Thick with oil. I didn't understand why? So i filled it with 3 quarts. I guess I'll do it again to be on the safe side and use that rtv. Do I have to let it set before I replace the shifter? or just put it on right after? Any suggestions on what I could clean all the sludge off with? I may also need to replace the transmission mounts? They are all soaked, will that cause a problem? I notice alot of vibration from the shifter when cruising.

**bighoss88lx** · 10-06-2006, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SiLv3R_4point6

Yeah thats what I was doing about a month ago. I got under there to do a mid pipe swap and noticed trans fluid all over the tranny. wasn't sure where it was comin from. So i decided to change it. When I took the cover off, the top of the shifter was all oilly. Thick with oil. I didn't understand why? So i filled it with 3 quarts. I guess I'll do it again to be on the safe side and use that rtv. Do I have to let it set before I replace the shifter? or just put it on right after? Any suggestions on what I could clean all the sludge off with? I may also need to replace the transmission mounts? They are all soaked, will that cause a problem? I notice alot of vibration from the shifter when cruising.

Nah, just install it with the RTV fresh. Dont over tighten the bolts. And get any old RTV off. You need a clean surface. Use some brake cleaner, shop towels and some sort of scraping device to get the crap off. Just check the trans mount. If it is ok just clean all of the oil off of it. The rubber will be real soft if contaminated.

SiLv3R_4point6 · 10-06-2006, 09:56 PM

Thanks man!

joestang96 · 12-26-2006, 05:12 PM

nice write-up, im in the middle of mine now. i was trying to figure out how to pop the shifter base off, looks like i may have to jack it up, cuz i cant pry that bitch off for nothing!

good job, once again!

SUfanINsa · 02-09-2007, 05:09 PM

thanks for this dan....did mine last night

07-01-2006, 09:19 PM	#1
bighoss88lx Killing is my Business...And Business is Good! Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Elmendorf, Tejas Posts: 5,932 Trader Rating: (1)	Short Throw Shifter Install Short Throw Shifter Install Author: BIGHOSS88LX This shifter install is preformed on a 88 Mustang but is basically the same on all 79-04 manual transmission Mustangs with the T-5, T-45, or the TR-3650. This install is a very basic modification that can be preformed by anyone with little mechanical skills and knowledge on the 90-04 models. Pre-90 Mustangs require the removal of the center console to gain access to the two rear-most upper shifter boot bolts. The removal of the center console can be tedious and is recommended you have sufficient knowledge of its removal and install. I will have a quick description of the console removal so we can get to removing and installing the shifter in detail. Also I am removing an aftermarket shifter but the removal of the stock shifter is identical. Tools needed: Ratchet Sockets Phillips Screwdriver T-25 Torx Pry Bar or Long flat head screwdriver Hammer Gasket scraper RTV Gasket Maker Blue Locktite 87-89 Mustang Console Removal Quick Rundown: Push front seats all the way foreward so you can see the oval shaped plugs on both sides of the rear part of the console below the armrest. Remove the plugs and there will be 2-8mm bolts on each side. Remove those and pull the arm rest off. That will expose two Phillips screws on the back part of the top of the console and removing the shifter bezel will expose two more screws. To remove the shifter bezel unscrew the shifter knob and remove it. Pop the shifter bezel off and the shifter boot should come with it. Now remove the other two screws and lift the console top off and unplug the lighter and light connection under it. If you have power mirrors you will unplug the switch there also. Now you must open the glove box to expose the two screws holding the right side of the lower part of the console to the dash. Remove those. Remove the lower dash below the steering wheel. There are two torx screws at the bottom to remove. Once you have that out of the way that will expose the two Phillips screws holding the left side of the lower part of the console to the dash. Remove those. Then there are 2 more 8mm bolts at the rear part of the lower console holding it to the floor. Get those out. Then you must remove the HVAC control trim and remove the radio. After all that you should be able to remove the lower part of the console and have access to the rear most bolts on the upper shifter boot. Now for the easy part…… 1. Remove the shift knob by unscrewing it from the shifter handle. Remove the shifter trim bezel and boot. If you must remove the console to gain access to the rear upper shifter boot bolts, remove the console now as outlined above. 2.Using an 8mm socket remove the upper shifter boot from the floor. There are 4 bolts. You may have to remove the shifter handle to slide it off. If so remove the 2 bolts holding the shifter handle on then slide the boot off to expose the shifter base. 3. Remove the 4 bolts holding the shifter to the transmission. 4. If you’re lucky you can just use moderate upward pressure to remove the shifter base from the transmission, but that is hardly the case as they are usually stuck fairly good. There are two other forceful methods of getting the base to break free. The first that I have had little luck with is to re-install the handle and knob and do a mad 1-2 power shift and sometimes that will break it free. If not the last method will take care of it. Raise the car and support it with stands. Take a long screwdriver or pry bar and position it on the bottom of the shifter base under the car and strike the screwdriver or pry bar with a hammer until it breaks free. 5. Now once you have the shifter base removed you can scrape the old gasket material off the transmission and be careful not to get any inside. Remove any transmission fluid that may be on there so the RTV will stick correctly. Also make sure the plastic bushing that the end of the shifter rides on in the transmission is in the hole that the end of the shifter goes into the transmission and is in good condition. If it needs replacing its time to do so now and if yours is old it’s a cheap preventative maintenance item. 6. Apply a thin coat or your favorite RTV on the transmission where the shifter mounts and spread it with your finger so its applied evenly. 7. Now set your new shifter onto the transmission and make sure the end goes into the hole in the shifter block of the transmission where that plastic bushing is. Your shifter should have came with new longer than stock mounting bolts. Apply a small amount of lock tite to them and screw them in. The lock tite will keep them from ever backing out or the bolts from siezeing up in the transmission. Tighten down bolts fairly tight, but not tight enough where you bust a testicle doing so. 8. Install the shifter handle temporarily. Now you must adjust the shifter stops on the new shifter. This is how I do it but you may want to read the adjustment procedure from your shifter manufacturer. Back off the stop bolts so that the shifter moves freely into all gears. Place the shifter in third gear. Push forward firmly on the lever while turning the stop bolt in by hand until it contacts the shift lever. Once the stop bolt contacts the shift lever, back off the bolt 1/6 turn, until there is a small air gap (about .010") between the shift lever and the stop, while still applying pressure to the lever. Pushing on the lever takes all of the slack or play out of the linkage,ensuring you get the proper adjustment. Hold the bolt with a wrench while tightening the jam nut against the shifter tower with another wrench. Double-check the space between the shift lever and the stop bolt. When you push very hard on the shift lever it should barely contact the stop bolt, but when you let go of the lever it should not touch the bolt, but instead have a small air gap between them. Place the shifter in second gear and adjust the other stop bolt as outlined above. Shift the shifter through all gears and double check the stop clearance in each gear. The shifter must be able to shift freely into all gears without interference from the stop bolts. Stops that are set too close to the shift lever may prevent the gears fully engaging, causing serious damage to the transmission. The stop bolts are there to prevent the lever from being over -extended. They should not be engaged during normal operation. When in doubt, leave a little extra space between the lever and the stop bolt. 9. Now that you have the shifter stops properly adjusted there is usually a boot that goes over the shifter assembly that the manufacturer supplies that you will install now. You will need to remove the shifter handle though to install it. 10. Now you can install the upper shifter boot with the 4 bolts you removed from the floor. Also you can install the shifter handle this time permanently. 11. Install the shift boot, bezel, and knob. If you have a console to install do it now and that will finish up this install. The author believes the above information to be true and accurate, however it is strictly for educational purposes only. Neither Lonestarstangs.com nor the author can be held liable in any manner for consequential damages occurring from the use of said information. __________________ 1988 Mustang LX Last edited by bighoss88lx : 07-01-2006 at 09:33 PM.

08-02-2006, 09:10 PM	#5
timpryor Wishing we had some late-nite staff Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: BFE Posts: 6,641 Trader Rating: (3)	oh, i was just going by what the MGW install paper said. __________________ '97 Rio Red Cobra #2637 of 6961 Modded-274.47RWHP/271.40 RWTQ

08-04-2006, 05:14 PM	#9
John#21 I wasn't born with enough middle fingers. Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 4,343 Trader Rating: (0)	thats what we like to see and hear! Welcome aboard also! __________________ GO SPURS GO

10-06-2006, 07:56 PM	#14
SiLv3R_4point6 Feelin good like a mescan should Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 489 Trader Rating: (2)	um... I didn't put any RTV gasket maker on my tri-ax install. Is that why its leaking tranny fluid everywhere? :stupid question: Its been like that for over a yr. DAMNIT!!!!!!111 Imma take care of that tommorrow! The person I bought it from installed it. I figured he knew what he was doing. No wonder when I took it off about a month ago it was covered in oil. I hope my tranny isnt screwed. __________________ Myspizzace

10-06-2006, 09:56 PM	#18
SiLv3R_4point6 Feelin good like a mescan should Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 489 Trader Rating: (2)	Thanks man! __________________ Myspizzace

07-19-2006, 02:14 AM	#2
timpryor Wishing we had some late-nite staff Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: BFE Posts: 6,641 Trader Rating: (3)	nice writeup, however if you have a 3650 don't use the shiftstops as the tranny has them built in __________________ '97 Rio Red Cobra #2637 of 6961 Modded-274.47RWHP/271.40 RWTQ

07-30-2006, 11:51 AM	#3
tollebuilt Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: New Braunfels Posts: 1,424 Trader Rating: (3)	How much do you want for the blue shifter you pulled out? __________________

08-03-2006, 08:57 PM	#6
acspony Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Northern VA Posts: 5 Trader Rating: (0)	Great install pictures, I just received my MGW and had been using your directions to take out my console (I've got an '89 LX). I can't remove the screws though in the glove box and on the driver's side holding the console to the dash. I've got a combo wrench to get the dust boot bolts off but it feels like one of the clips has come loose so now the bolt just spins... I've tried PB Blaster on the screws and everything I can think of to take them out w/o stripping them. Any tips on the install? It looks pretty straightforward and I understand the steps just fine, my car is just fighting me every step of the way Thanks in advance, ~A.C.

08-04-2006, 05:00 PM	#8
acspony Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Northern VA Posts: 5 Trader Rating: (0)	The screws under the glove box to remove it were torx and I got those out fine. The ones holding the console to the dash are phillips and they do not want to budge, even after some PB Blaster. I've going to try a dremel to make a slot so I can use a flathead. I also might use it to cut the console to get access to the front dust boot bolts. I'm pretty sure the shifter trim would cover the cut. Thanks for the help, much appreciated

08-04-2006, 05:17 PM	#10
acspony Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Northern VA Posts: 5 Trader Rating: (0)	Thanks for the welcome, gotta attack the problems from all different angles, ya know?

08-04-2006, 09:47 PM	#12
acspony Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Northern VA Posts: 5 Trader Rating: (0)	Yeah, I've been leaning into the phillips and it hasn't completely stripped but it's getting there. What bugged me is that the first screw came out with no problems, just like all the other ones until this point. I think the dremel is my best bet.

08-06-2006, 11:37 AM	#13
acspony Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Northern VA Posts: 5 Trader Rating: (0)	Thanks for all the help guys, with the help of the dremel and a friend I got the MGW installed last night. Nice piece

12-26-2006, 05:12 PM	#19
joestang96 trojan man! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Ft. Worth / Longview TX Posts: 3,325 Trader Rating: (0)	nice write-up, im in the middle of mine now. i was trying to figure out how to pop the shifter base off, looks like i may have to jack it up, cuz i cant pry that bitch off for nothing! good job, once again! __________________ 2001 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6-R 2000 Mustang GT Bassani o/r x-pipe, flowmaster catback, 75mm tb & plenum, eibach sportlines, pro 5.0 shifter, k&n myspace

02-09-2007, 05:09 PM	#20
SUfanINsa Hey Sucka Fool Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Converse Posts: 6,202 Trader Rating: (3)	thanks for this dan....did mine last night __________________ JLT RAI,Tri-Ax,Steeda Pullies,3.73's,MAC LT's,Catted X,Aluminum DS,UPR FLSFC's,PP TB,Jody Plenum,Autometer Lunar Guauges

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