[96greengt]

Waylon, he did do the stage 1 set up, so it should be slightly firmer then OEM stock, but not to the point where it should shudder on take off in first.

As far as that screw goes, if you have a mirror and a light, I'd make sure it is there or not before you go further. getting that screw is a fine thread machine screw and hard to find. A bolt shop may have it, but you'd have to cut the length I am sure.

[lazer96gt]

well, to me high engagement seems like to cable it too tight. Like you're riding the Throw-out bearing. And honestly, it shouldn't hurt without the screw. once the cable is connected at both end, the cable should not come out of the adjuster. And if you find the screw, yes screw it down moderatly tight. You will be screwing into plastic so alot of tension is not necessary.

[black_stang_02]

I have a Spec stage 3 clutch. I bought the firewall aduster, UPR Quadrant and adjustable cable. I installed it, adjusted everthing then took it for a drive and then removed the F/W adjuster and quadrant. It worked bettter without it. I left the adjustable cable on though, I did need that.

[lazer96gt]

[quote=96greengt;446812]Waylon, he did do the stage 1 set up, so it should be slightly firmer then OEM stock, but not to the point where it should shudder on take off in first. QUOTE]

I can't disagree that it should be more firm, but my Stg 2+ feels absolutely stock as far as pedal pressure. Maybe I got lucky

[96greengt]

Or you just have big muscles !!!

[lazer96gt]

LOL!

[lazer96gt]

I'm really curious what can be resolved on this issue. I just can't understand why these part don't just WORK. I mean, even as black stang 02 stated, he removed parts of the puzzle. They sell this stuff as a kit. Why should these parts not work without flaw. It's not as if the Mustang is brand new stuff. My FRPP and UPR kits are for all intents identical in design. The cables don't even mount to anything. The bracket (if installed in the stock location) holds the cable about 6-8" from the fork. I speak out of frustration because I know exactly what he's going through.

[96greengt]

Installation error perhaps? Pressure plate not tight enough or a little loose, wear in the clutch fork, cable stretch or not adjusted right.


Although driving an OE one for so long and making a big change is stiffer parts.. could be right, just "feel" different to the user now.

It's like driving a Mustang with a stiff clutch pedal and short throw shifter and then getting in a Honda that has a hydraulic clutch pedal and stock shifter......... world of difference.

[MustangGTRound2]

Originally Posted by lazer96gt

I'm really curious what can be resolved on this issue. I just can't understand why these part don't just WORK. I mean, even as black stang 02 stated, he removed parts of the puzzle. They sell this stuff as a kit. Why should these parts not work without flaw. It's not as if the Mustang is brand new stuff. My FRPP and UPR kits are for all intents identical in design. The cables don't even mount to anything. The bracket (if installed in the stock location) holds the cable about 6-8" from the fork. I speak out of frustration because I know exactly what he's going through.

lol lazer.... would be nice if the parts would either mount to stock parts or mount properly as a kit and WORK. So if i wanted to tighten the adjuster i can screw in until it is firm or what? i dont know anything about the adjuster and what to do and what not to do.

[lazer96gt]

bringing the adjuster in (towards firewall) should give a lower engagement. you can't go in too far or the cable may come off the quadrant.

[lazer96gt]

you should have a very small amount of "play" in the pedal before you feel pressure. if there is no play then your cable is too tight.

[Magnapack97]

Originally Posted by lazer96gt

you should have a very small amount of "play" in the pedal before you feel pressure. if there is no play then your cable is too tight.

Thats how mine is. But mine does the same thing as MustangGTRound2's, except its stock. It engages when your almost off the pedal. What the hell is my problem? need to adjust that one screw?

[psiperformance]

three things

1 if you clutch takes up to high then you have the cable TO TIGHT not to lose as you are disengageing the clutch as soon as you press the pedal

2. The firewall adjusters reliability totaly depends on the brand the only one i use is the upr double lock adjuster because it will never loose its ajudstment once set.
it has two mechanisms that stop this once you have it set right it has a second adjustment nut that you screw down and that double locks the adjusting nut against the firewall so it can not turn.. Second it has a set screw that screws into the cables plastic end its self through the outer part that stops the cable from turning in the adjuster.

3.. anyone who regularly drag racers can tell you that the quicker relase of the aftermarket quadrants is very nice and anyone who realy shifts hard can atest to striping out stock plastic quadrants .. i personaly have killed 4 over my time with mustangs from agresive shifting.

[psiperformance]

Originally Posted by Magnapack97

Thats how mine is. But mine does the same thing as MustangGTRound2's, except its stock. It engages when your almost off the pedal. What the hell is my problem? need to adjust that one screw?

pull up on your clutch pedal realy hard the stock quadrant is self adjusting this will adjust it.

[MustangGTRound2]

Sorry havent posted on this lately, been sick but i got the pedel adjusted a lil better. It still engages high but not AS high. Now i dont have to ride it to keep it from stalling. the Noise level went down a good bit once i did this.... but still chatters slightly but in a way that doesnt sound loose lol. I think the noise im getting now is just it breaking itself in. before this when it was loud chattering etc. the idle was up... then down.... up... then down... thats also gone. In the near future tho i want to find somone willing to take a look at it who knows more about it so they may help me understand it better and just maybe find a better adjustment than how i have it. lol dont know if anyone else gets the feeling i get when i hear rough noises and weird feelings from my car but, i feel like im driving something a bit less then a mustang when i have problems like that.

[Graves]

I have the same setup on my car, and I have the let the clutch out a lot also... I don't really like it. I need some supervision on how to tweak it properly before I go and jack something up.

[MustangGTRound2]

Originally Posted by Graves

I have the same setup on my car, and I have the let the clutch out a lot also... I don't really like it. I need some supervision on how to tweak it properly before I go and jack something up.

haha wow... feels good not to be alone on this. My friend who got me into sports cars in high school is usually the one who teaches me as we install a new part but he didnt want to jack with this install cause he doesnt know much about it. So where does your clutch engage?

[Graves]

Towards the top. I have to let it out more than I'd like to.

[MustangGTRound2]

Well... i thought i was over this problem because i thought i found the solution. The shop that installed the clutch installed the firewall adjuster backwards and once i figured that out the adjuster for some reason was jammed and would not screw so i had to wait for another one to come in. I finally swapped them and adjusted the clutch where i wanted it and it was great... But after driving it for a lil while the damn thing went back to the high position as it was before. When i tighten it to where i want it the Chattering and everything is gone... its nice and firm and feels good when shifting but when it goes back to high after driving it a bit it starts to chatter again and feel loose and i have to ride it to get it to move from 0mph. I called steeda and asked them about the cable adjuster/firewall and the only thing they said to try was to go to the Clutch Fork and change the nuts down there. Right now the two nuts are tightend on the end of the cable next to each other. They said to remove one of the nuts and put it on the other side of the for so i will then have one nut on each side which sounds like bs to me. they said it sounds like theres too much play down there and the problem was having both nuts on the same side... the nuts screw together to hold themselves in place... i dont underestand how seperating them would make the difference and i think it would allow the nuts to loosen over time if they are seperated. Im running out of options and time with this problem... i need some hard advice or a good shop on the north side who would look at it free of charge and tell me what the deal is..... the adjuster and the firewall is not moving and the cable at the bottom is not moving but for some damn reason the clutch wont stay!!! lol im getting impatient. so any info for this would be great... thx

[AdRock]

Why not use the OEM cable and modify it? That's what i did with the Steeda Quadrant and cable adjuster and it works great. Modifying the stock cable is as easy as cutting a piece off.