[tulabeast]

Well heres the deal i have a 91 lx 5.0 couple bolts-ons nothing major.When i go to turn it on first crank no probs turns right on runs great.drive it for a while let it get to normal running temp never gets higher than 170-180 max in dead stop traffic then i turn it off wherever i am, go to start it and it barely wants to crank like the batt is dead or dying.It has a brand new batt,starter silinoid(sorry cant spell)high tourqe starter tested the alternator its good.when the car cools down its starts again.


thanks for all the info in advance.
any ideas please

[Stumpy]

best i can think of is that it's the starter. i have an old 83 Monte Carlo and many moons ago the starter began to go out on it. every time it was cold, cranked right up. when i would drive for a while and shut it off, when i tried to recrank it, it would drag like a sumbitch. so my only suggestion is to get the start checked. outside of that, i'm at a loss.

also,what's up with the pics???

[tulabeast]

i just put that high torque starter maybe bout 4 months ago and before that i went thru like 2 or 3 factory starters.i dont drive the car alot is there something maybe burning out my starters.is there a better starter out there

[Bigdrumma22]

My suggestion is to make sure you have good grounds and extra don't hurt. On my 84' Chevy truck, I used to have problems cranking it every now and then. I had the negative cable from the battery to the alternator bracket on the block, but it still seemed to be struggling. Talked to a parts guy who simply suggested adding an extra ground, so I added a 2 ga. ground cable from block/transmission to frame and it solved the problem. This is just my experience with starting problems. I saw your car at ANR the other day, it's nice! Sounds good!!

[ANRmotorsports]

Its coming back tomorrow so we can check out that problem and the 5 lug swap will get done while its here this week. None the less the car dosnt get along with the owner!!

[96greengt]

Heat shield or high temp wrap to keep some of the heat soak off of the starter would be a good idea as well. As the temps outside go up, so do the under hood temps of all cars this far down south.

[J5]

Damn sammy I think you have more shit happen to your car then i've had with mine. Let me know when you get it fixed

[Aerocoupe]

Where is your battery located? How did you wire up the mini starter? What gauge wires are you running from the battery to the starter and ground?

Darren

[tulabeast]

Originally Posted by Bigdrumma22

My suggestion is to make sure you have good grounds and extra don't hurt. On my 84' Chevy truck, I used to have problems cranking it every now and then. I had the negative cable from the battery to the alternator bracket on the block, but it still seemed to be struggling. Talked to a parts guy who simply suggested adding an extra ground, so I added a 2 ga. ground cable from block/transmission to frame and it solved the problem. This is just my experience with starting problems. I saw your car at ANR the other day, it's nice! Sounds good!!

thanks its a problem child but what can i do ill try the ground thing

[tulabeast]

Originally Posted by 92Rakasanstang

Damn sammy I think you have more shit happen to your car then i've had with mine. Let me know when you get it fixed

your car never breaks cuz its a auto and ur wack dont come back to san antonio cuz ill give u proper ass woopn in my car that hates to start.
if my 98 is running ill give you a proper in that one too

[tulabeast]

Originally Posted by Aerocoupe

Where is your battery located? How did you wire up the mini starter? What gauge wires are you running from the battery to the starter and ground?

Darren

i dont really know how the starter was wired i didnt set it up i was thinkn the same thing bout the wire gauge ill check it out.

[tulabeast]

Originally Posted by 96greengt

Heat shield or high temp wrap to keep some of the heat soak off of the starter would be a good idea as well. As the temps outside go up, so do the under hood temps of all cars this far down south.

heat wrap is a must i def have to do that

[Aerocoupe]

If it is wired up like most mini starters I would suggest you use 4 ga wire if the battery is located under the hood. If the electrical loads are high then 2 ga will work better. If the battery is in the trunk then go with 1 ga. from the battery to the inner fender mounted starter solenoid (stock Fox).

Battery 12V + to post on inner fender mounted starter solenoid closest to battery - 4 ga.
Battery 12V - to frame ground - 4 ga.
Frame to engine block ground - 4 ga.

From the post on the inner fender mounted starter solenoid that is closest to the shock tower to the male blade connection on the mini starter mounted you only need 10 ga. This is the trigger wire to excite the coil on the mini stater solenoid so it does not pull a large amount of current. From the post on the mini starter solenoid to the post on the battery side of the inner fender mounted starter solenoid use 4 ga. See diagram below.

http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/027___IS_PMGR.pdf

I like to run the wires from the inner fender mounted solenoid to the mini starter solenoid just in front of the motor. I run mine above the rack and pinion and then between the oil pan and the motor mount on the passenger side. The name of the game is to keep it away from the exhaust and where it will not get damaged by debris on the road and pinched by moving parts. I have this done on my T-Bird that has long tube headers and the Coupe with shorties and I have zero heat soak issues with the ministarters. I had more issues with the old style starters than a panhandling crack head.

Hope you get it figured out.

Darren

[96greengt]

Originally Posted by tulabeast

heat wrap is a must i def have to do that

The header is right up on the starter, so I would say that is the problem.

[J5]

Originally Posted by tulabeast

your car never breaks cuz its a auto and ur wack dont come back to san antonio cuz ill give u proper ass woopn in my car that hates to start.
if my 98 is running ill give you a proper in that one too

Will see when i get back. I don't want you crying to your mom when you get your feelings get hurt. And if you want i'll give you a ride and drop the top so you can dry your eyes.

[tulabeast]

Originally Posted by Aerocoupe

If it is wired up like most mini starters I would suggest you use 4 ga wire if the battery is located under the hood. If the electrical loads are high then 2 ga will work better. If the battery is in the trunk then go with 1 ga. from the battery to the inner fender mounted starter solenoid (stock Fox).

Battery 12V + to post on inner fender mounted starter solenoid closest to battery - 4 ga.
Battery 12V - to frame ground - 4 ga.
Frame to engine block ground - 4 ga.

From the post on the inner fender mounted starter solenoid that is closest to the shock tower to the male blade connection on the mini starter mounted you only need 10 ga. This is the trigger wire to excite the coil on the mini stater solenoid so it does not pull a large amount of current. From the post on the mini starter solenoid to the post on the battery side of the inner fender mounted starter solenoid use 4 ga. See diagram below.

http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/027___IS_PMGR.pdf

I like to run the wires from the inner fender mounted solenoid to the mini starter solenoid just in front of the motor. I run mine above the rack and pinion and then between the oil pan and the motor mount on the passenger side. The name of the game is to keep it away from the exhaust and where it will not get damaged by debris on the road and pinched by moving parts. I have this done on my T-Bird that has long tube headers and the Coupe with shorties and I have zero heat soak issues with the ministarters. I had more issues with the old style starters than a panhandling crack head.

Hope you get it figured out.

Darren

dam thanks alot. i think some long tubes will let some of that heat get out.i def keep you guys posted

[tulabeast]

Originally Posted by 92Rakasanstang

Will see when i get back. I don't want you crying to your mom when you get your feelings get hurt. And if you want i'll give you a ride and drop the top so you can dry your eyes.

all day baby im ready come get some sucka. ill can probably take you out in the 98 and that car is real slow. you still gonna get that blower. whos gonna install it for you

[J5]

You still got the white gt. Its either the blower or turbo. I'm thinking of taking it to psi when i get back. But the first thing on my list ist to convert it to stick. Thats going to run around 2-3000 depending on the transmission i get.

[tulabeast]

na i donrt have the white 98 any more i bought a silver 98 but it still aint running hopefully i get it back soon

[J5]

How much did you get that for. Whats wrong with it