[PearlWhiteGT]

Here's the deal guys, I have a used S-Trim that I have had for some time now & i'm not sure if I want to install it on my mostly stock 306 or sell it & get a Custom Head, Cam & Valvetrain package from Jay Allen at Camshaft Innovations. I'm still running stock heads with a E303 & a typhoon intake with all supporting mods as well. What do you think will be better/faster on the Street? My stang will rarely see the track & will be under 6K RPM's.

[ken964698]

Boost is FUN............

[PearlWhiteGT]

Yeah I know boost is fun but will be better on the street?

[2k4mk1]

Personally Id stay N/A and get the good heads/cam package.
I think it is a lot more fun to make a car fast N/A
Anybody can bolt on a blower or other power adder but it takes skill to build a fast n/a car

[PearlWhiteGT]

If I go with a custom head/cam package it will be from Jay Allen @ Camshaft Innovations. It would be some Canfileds 195's with his custom cam & valvetrain matched to everything.

[thesource]

I'd go with the blower if you already have it . Just make sure you have a decent fuel system on it and you should be fine .

[PearlWhiteGT]

I got a 255lb in tank with some 42lb injectors & a PMAS MAF cal for the 42's. Might use the T-Rex also. I plan on having it tuned at Murrillo Motorsports after the install, if I decide to go that route. What is the problem with oil blow by & pcv. I have no clue what that means.

[thesource]

You should be ok with what you have . The injectors are plenty big for your setup and Murrillo is probably the best tuner for EFI S/C'd Mustangs in San Antonio . PSI or Lethal can probably help you out as well on the tuning .

[Sonic Blue 85]

With boosted engines you will get blow by. If you are still using the PCV system you will get oil in the throttle body and intake, it will get into the IAC and cause idle problems after awhile. I you have a breather on the valve cover it will blow oil out of the breather, mainly when in the boost. The oil will get all over the side of the engine, headers, plug wires. There are companies that make oil catch can or filters to go into the PCV hose to catch the oil, that will have to be drained every once in a while.I think Steeda has one. I have worked on multiple boosted cars and they all eventualy have some blow by. Which is cylinder pressure getting buy the rings, creating high crank case pressure, that has to get out some how and when it does it carries oil with it. I have plans to make an oil catch system with a breather for a friends car soon. If the oil gets back into the intake, it will get into the cylinders and then the cylinders get carbon build up which will cause detonation. That is very dangerous with a power adder.

[PearlWhiteGT]

WOW, I didn't know about this. So what is the best fix for this problem? Would I have to get some different valve covers as well? The one's I have are kind of a stock type & the baffles have been removed.

[FoxBodyNut]

what compression ratio is your 306 currently set up with(lower for boost, higher for NA), what kind of pistons: cast or forged (forged for boost), how big are the piston valve reliefs (will they support the valve sizes in those canfields)...

those are the questions i would start with. then, i'd ask what is your ultimate goal for the car (hp #'s, daily drivability, track times?)

some canfield 195's on a 306 would have to rev pretty high to get good use out of the runner size of those heads. i'd figure high compression, carb intake and a flat tappet cam would best suit those heads on a 306. done right though, i'd guess they could make over 400hp at the flywheel.

assuming you will end up with the same power numbers: drivability, the supercharger would win. power to weight, the NA route would win. you're shaving weight with aluminum heads, whereas the blower will add weight... longevity concerns, blower belt tension adds stress to crank pulleys and wears down main bearings faster than NA would...

if you do go the blower route, the stock heads will really choke your motor down, the flow numbers on stock exhaust ports are poor for NA alone, adding more intake through a blower would increase the backpressure in the chamber even more.

either way, a clutch/converter and possibly transmission upgrade, suspension too, would likely be necessary soon after your engine mods. i'm not here to tell you which way to go, merely point out a few things it seems others have not.

as far as your questions about blow by, the only way to really decrease the effects of increased cylinder pressure leaking past your piston rings and into the crank case would be to rebuild the shortblock with a fresh set of rings. blow by occurs naturally over time as the rings and cylinder walls wear.. forced induction just speeds that process up. the oil seperator in the pcv line is a common band aid for the oil issue... more professional jobs involve running lines from valve covers into the headers; the exhaust velocity acts as a vacuum to draw crank case pressure up through the passages in the heads and into/out through the exhaust...

personally, i went the HCI plus N20 route and had a blast on the street and at the track. i made it into the 11's on the spray but stopped there. i couldnt afford a transmission that would let me really get on it. either way, i hope it works out for you.

[PearlWhiteGT]

It's pretty much a stock 306 that was rebuilt & has about 20K miles on it. It has forged TRW pistons & a E303. As far as the 195 heads, he said he can make them work with my 306. Pistons have not been notched but the idea is Big heads & Small cam. My goal is just to have a Fast street car that is not going to be broke down all the time & maybe keep up or beat some LS1 guys. I would like to be able to take it out of town with no problems if possibly. So I guess drivability is really important. I don't care about track times cuz I don't plan on really taking it to the track, well maybe every once in awhile. I would like my power to be under 6K rpm's as well. I know the blower would make more HP on the dyno but that doesn't mean it will be faster on the street right??? I guess I need to know which route will give me the least problems & last longer but still be fast.

[BHAM]

I ALWAYS THINK ALL MOTER CARS ARE BETTER, LIKE 2KRMK1 SAID.

[junkstang5.0]

I think if you want to get the most power for your mid rpm range h/c would be best and if that is what you would like to use the most. If you want the power at higher band go with the sc.

[Sonic Blue 85]

The pistons you have are heavy/very strong. Because of the hydraulic roller,stock crank and pistons I would not rev this combination past 6200. Boost would be the way to go if you stick with this short block, you can make lots of power below 6200 RPM. A turbo would be even safer and make more powe earlier,would be easier on the crank. Also the heads would work good with boost below 6200. I made 500 hp with a hydralic roller, stock crank and block. The engine was suppose to make peak power at 6700 but had serious valve float at 6100. Some of the other cams I ran we able to go to 6400 before I had valve float. But the engine only made about 450 hp with the other combinations. I also had a problem of cracking the stock cranks, would only take a month of track use. I would then rattle the main caps loose even with a main girdle. I tried both the steel Probe and the aluminium DSS girdles. The purpose of the girdles is to keep the caps from walking not to strenghten the block. They don't work when your crank is cracked.As for the blow by, the harder you run the car the sooner it will happen. Like was said previously you can in stall a filter or catch can inline in the PCV hose or it you do away with the PCV system you could run at lease a 3/4" hose from one of the vavle covers to a catch can with a breather on top, such as the ones used crank case evac system. Like fox body nut said you could get a exhaust vacuum kit. It would not be legal if you had to have a smog test on the car. If it were more of a race car and you were willing to spend the money you use a crank case vac kit that uses a vacuum pump,but those are used mostly on very serious race engines.Also you have to go with either a PCV system that is sealed with no air leaks such as a vacuum leak or a breather or a breather system with all of the PCV system plugged off. Other wise the engine will get unmetered air. Meaning that the engine will be getting air that is not going through the MAF meter, which can cause the engine to run lean.

[4.6stanger]

I say if you already have the SC.... go ahead and do it. Jus IMo.

[95 GTS]

S/C now for a fun street car.


195s will be annoying around town and low rpms...

[PearlWhiteGT]

Thanks Guys for all the Help!

Mike