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#1 |
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Coming to a 17" rim near you
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The key to 12s
What are they, keeping the motor at a stock 302 bore and stroke, what does it take short of the gas.
my goal for the car performance wise is just to be able to dip into 12s.. nothing to special but thats a good goal i think. my suspension/chassis plans are: adj shocs/struts full length subframes 373 gears upper and lower control arms what do i need power wise to get there? running drag radials with skinnies up front, electric fan, maybe powersteering delete. also a/c n smog delete. |
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#2 |
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SUBSTANTIALICIOUS
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I'd say 4.10s and a good H/C/I combo with long tubes, an off-road pipe and dumps.
Are you making it into a drag car? A k-member would help to shed off some unwanted pounds, too. |
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#3 |
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Coming to a 17" rim near you
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the more n more i do on the car, the more n more i see it turning into a drag car. im only running 1 seat, no door panels no back seat...no luxeries to speak of in the car at all. th a/c has been all but taken out. so i guess it is gonna become a drag minded car.
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#4 |
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chiches & nalgas
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strip that shit in addition to what was mentioned above. if that dont work, get nawz or a blower!
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#5 | |
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Sie lieben, mich zu hassen!
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#6 |
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LSS Sponsor
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Your suspension ideas are good. If you want a suspension combo that will work very well. Try a set of eibach drag springs front and rear, strange struts front and rear they are the best for the money, BBK housing bushings, Mega Bite JR. upper and lower arms with a set of drag radials and about 350 hp you will be in the 12s. As for gutting the car, it is good and bad. A lighter car needs less hp to get it down the track. But mustangs are nose heavy to begin with, most of what you are taking out of the car is removing weight from the rear. Move your batter to the rear and possibly and you may need to add some more weight to the trunk area to get the car to work. What is your plan on the engine, EFI or carb? You can make enough power with a set of GT40 heads, but a better set of heads will make it easier, then the right cam, 1 5/8" long tubes and 2 1/2" exhaust. The electric fan is a good idea along with the P/S delete also add some under drive pullies. The gears will depend on the engine and trans. Usualy either 3.73s or 4.10s work best for most applications.
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My car is an '85 sonic blue coupe with 302 bored and stroked to 364, Ported Twisted Wedge heads and a BXR intake, A9M ECM with a Tweecer, C4 with trans brake, Hoosier 275/60/15 drag radials, no power adders. The car is still street driven, with a best of 10.21 at 131 mph with a 1.51 60' spinning lightly. With this combo it made a best of 460 hp and 410 lbs of torque at the wheels. |
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#7 | |
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Coming to a 17" rim near you
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for heads i was planning on some e7s(getting em for VERY cheap and im gonna have BHAM port the shit out of em hopefully) lts will be on there way next week i hope. |
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#8 | |
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Sie lieben, mich zu hassen!
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#9 |
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Coming to a 17" rim near you
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#10 |
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LoneStarStangs Addict
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See my mods in the signature....I will be making my first pass with M/T ET Streets in the next couple of weeks...waiting on brackets to make the rear brakes GT 10.5" to clear the Prostars.
My goal is 12 sec pass without Nitrous and 11 sec with. My car is truly stock motor with the exception of C&L cold air. Hopefully I will hit 12's if not then I will Laughing Gas the hell out of it. PS ...several people have told me to reduce "unsprung" weight...light wheels, are the easiest way without spending big bucks.
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95 Cobra Stock 5.0 motor- MSD 6AL, MSD TFI Coil, MSD Wires, C&L Cold Air and MAF, BBK Long Tubes, UPR X PIPE, Borla Dumps, 3.73s, Hotchkis LCA, Granitelli Adj UCA, Lakewood 50/50 Rear - 70/30 Front, Eibach Drag Springs with airbag, Yukon Alloy Axles, Alum Driveshaft, Edelbrock EFI Nitrous with digital window switch, purge, and warmer, Full Length Subframe connectors, UPR Smog Delete, MMR Rear Seat Delete - looks box stock and best run so far is 12.43 @ 109.86 mph on M/T 26x10 slicks
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#11 |
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SUBSTANTIALICIOUS
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Don't forget 31 spline axles & the diff to match. It would suck if you did all this work, got the car on slicks or a nice DR and when you launched, you snap your axles.
Also Cody, like you said, 4 cyl springs work great as a "poor mans" drag spring in the front. An old friend of mine back home and a hatch like yours, slightly newer, but he ran 4 cyl springs up front and with his setup he was deep in the 12s. Eventually ran 11s. |
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#12 | |
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Back in the saddle again
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Quote:
12s are a cakewalk on a stock 302 11s is also doable with the right combination. Not really that complicated if you learn to drive and go agressive with the combo. 12s are achieveable with 4.10s and boltons in a fox on slicks. having trouble? add heads and cam. want to go deep 12s t gurantee your 12 second status, get better heads cam and intake combination. 5% of people I would put in the good driving category honestly agressive combo + good gearing + good driving = 11s agressive combo + whimpy gearing + good driving = low-mid 12s agressive combo + good gearing + bad driving = mid -high 12s agressive combo + whimpy gearing + bad driving = high 12s - low 13s mild combo + good gearing + good driving = low-mid 12s mild combo + whimpy gearing + good driving = mid-high 12s mild combo + good gearing + bad driving = high 12s - low 13s mild combo + whimpy gearing + bad driving = somewhere in the 13s hopefully full boltons + good gearing + good driving = high 12s full boltons + whimpy gearing + good driving = low - mid 13s full boltons + good gearing + bad driving high 13s full boltons + whimpy gearing + bad driving = anywhere in the 14s To give you an example, when i first got my car with full boltons, I ran mid 14s at 96-99, after learning to drive, I ran mid 13s at 102. with weight reduction and tire I ran 12.81 at 106 I used the use of tire with fuzzy logic in my "good driving" category, as it is a part of achieving the mopst out of a combo ET wise. good boltons would be 1.7 rockers, LTs full exhaust, cobra or performer intake, pullies, Maf, tuning, K&N. These are your HP makers. Money spent elsewhere is kind of a waste. Your TBs and Coldairs should be reserved for later. I lost some MPH running an open element filter in the engine bay. Fan wash will kill your intake temps. If you run a filter on the end of the MAF, make a shroud that seals the filter to only draw air form the fender hole.
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2007 Reflex Silver Wolfsburg Jetta - new hotness 1995 Canary Yellow GTS - Sold 12.81@106.2 w/1.80 60' Boltons/E303 + 3100 lbs + M&H 246 HP/ 290 TQ 12.57 @ 109.21 w/1.76 60' Boltons/GT40Ps/XE270 + 3240 lbs + 555Rs 295 HP / 321 TQ |
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#13 |
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Back in the saddle again
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you dont need 31 splines and a built rear on a 5.0. It will be fine. If anything happens far down the road, replace it.
whatever you do, do not buy E7s and have them ported. Grab gt40 Ps, borrow a dremel and just work the exhaust yourself ever so slightly. or leave them alone. There are many stout trophy stock 11 second cars with gt40Ps and gt40s
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2007 Reflex Silver Wolfsburg Jetta - new hotness 1995 Canary Yellow GTS - Sold 12.81@106.2 w/1.80 60' Boltons/E303 + 3100 lbs + M&H 246 HP/ 290 TQ 12.57 @ 109.21 w/1.76 60' Boltons/GT40Ps/XE270 + 3240 lbs + 555Rs 295 HP / 321 TQ |
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#16 |
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Ol' Skooler
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I'm a fan of AFR165's myself, although if you're going more towards just a drag car, then 185's might be the ticket. A 302 is worth a streetable 365hp @ the crank, which I imagine translates to 13's. Ditch the wide torqueband with maybe a hotter cam and better heads, 400+ hp and 12's are a no-brainer. Longer-tube headers help torque, but again, on the track you can afford a narrower powerband so you may go for shorter ones (not to be confused with shorty headers...) to magnify your top end power. You'll probably want a single-plane intake, and a 670-750cfm carb. A big-runner dual-plane with a nice smooth plenum and some port matching would do well too if you'd still like to drive to the track.
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'67 Droptop - 4 show winner
620 front coils * 4.5 leaf mid-eyes * 1" front sway bar * KYB Gas-A-Just shocks * 14" Styled Steel Wheels * Dark Moss Green exterior * Ivy Gold interior * 302 bored .030 over * stock cam * stock heads * Edelbrock Performer 289 intake * Carter AFB 540 * Hooker long tubes * 2" H-pipe duals * 23" Cherry Bombs * C4 trans * 8" rear end/3.00:1 160.3hp @ 4300 --- 229.5ft-lbs @ 3100 before fan clutch! Last edited by jcp123; 03-05-2008 at 11:57 PM. |
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#17 |
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Back in the saddle again
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365 crank better not give you 13s
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2007 Reflex Silver Wolfsburg Jetta - new hotness 1995 Canary Yellow GTS - Sold 12.81@106.2 w/1.80 60' Boltons/E303 + 3100 lbs + M&H 246 HP/ 290 TQ 12.57 @ 109.21 w/1.76 60' Boltons/GT40Ps/XE270 + 3240 lbs + 555Rs 295 HP / 321 TQ |
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#19 |
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Back in the saddle again
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thats why i said better not
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2007 Reflex Silver Wolfsburg Jetta - new hotness 1995 Canary Yellow GTS - Sold 12.81@106.2 w/1.80 60' Boltons/E303 + 3100 lbs + M&H 246 HP/ 290 TQ 12.57 @ 109.21 w/1.76 60' Boltons/GT40Ps/XE270 + 3240 lbs + 555Rs 295 HP / 321 TQ |
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#20 |
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Brewmeister
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Yea some slicks and gears help out a lot, but i used to run 12.8's with 3.27 gears/gt-40 iron/ maf/tb/19's/cheap shorty unequal headers, now with 3.90's it doesnt do much better.
the 1.7's and electric fan made a big difference for me as well.... good luck.
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retired 1990 Tx dps :T-5, stock bottom 302, shorty headers,o-r x-pipe, ported explorer true gt 40 heads, matching intake. E-cam 1.7's, pro-m 77, 24lb injectors, 3.90 gears. good for mid 12's on stickies. |
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