05-05-2008, 04:48 PM
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#1 |
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if you ain't first your last!
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UPR A-ARms which balljoints?
just wondering if it better to use the the x2 balljoints off my stock a-arms or use the ones the in the upr a-arm?
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2004 Mustang GT 9:1 Forged shortblock .20over w/team breed valve covers, ported heads, turbo cams, stock intake, stock manifolds, cai w/kn filter, c&l plenum, prochamber pipe dumps, battery relocation, 3.90's, qa1 k-member, subframe connectors, upr a-arms/coilovers, bumpsteer kit, steeda X2 balljoints, tokico adjustable drag struts/shocks, upr cc plates, tubular upper and lower rear control arms, welded axle tubes, 18" DD Black Cobra R's wrapped in nittos www.cardomain.com/id/66mustang04 T-70 Single Turbo build in progress...I cant wait!!! 
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05-05-2008, 08:14 PM
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#2 |
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LSS Sponsor
 
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I believe they use stock ball joints from a fox body or atleast thats what they told me .
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05-05-2008, 08:21 PM
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#3 | ||
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I eated it..
 
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If it is lowered more then 1 inch, I'd replace them with the Steeda ball joints designed for lowered cars. If not and the arms already have the ball joints installed, just use them. Better to be new then used.
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Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts. |
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05-09-2008, 02:47 PM
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#4 |
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if you ain't first your last!
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well i called steeda and they dont have a part number for the boot that goes on the balljoint (which is torn) they said i need to buy all new balljoints wtf ??? steeda sucks
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2004 Mustang GT 9:1 Forged shortblock .20over w/team breed valve covers, ported heads, turbo cams, stock intake, stock manifolds, cai w/kn filter, c&l plenum, prochamber pipe dumps, battery relocation, 3.90's, qa1 k-member, subframe connectors, upr a-arms/coilovers, bumpsteer kit, steeda X2 balljoints, tokico adjustable drag struts/shocks, upr cc plates, tubular upper and lower rear control arms, welded axle tubes, 18" DD Black Cobra R's wrapped in nittos www.cardomain.com/id/66mustang04 T-70 Single Turbo build in progress...I cant wait!!!
Last edited by turbo4point6; 05-09-2008 at 03:14 PM. |
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05-10-2008, 01:16 PM
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#5 | ||
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I eated it..
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To my knowledge, you cannot buy those boots at all. If you really wanted to be sneaky, go buy a stock replacement from any parts store, snag the boot, then return it as missing parts. But to get that far down to the boot, it is just plain smart to replace the whole joint.
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Built 00 Windsor engine, .20 over, 11.6:1cr, fully ported heads, Hardballer intake w/cooling mod, Scat rods, Probe pistons, Cobra crank, tri-metal Clevite race bearings, VT Stage 2 N/A cams, adjustable cam gears, Canton windage tray, MMR oil pump, Cobra pick up, 75MM Accufab t-body, Dragon plenum, JLT CAI, 24# injectors, Bassani mid lengths, mufflers & O/R X,255lph fuel pump, BBK FPR, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AJE K-member, ARP hardware everywhere, X-Cal SCT custom tuned, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, polygraphite motor mounts. |
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